Throttle Linkage Rhd pics please.

[288gto]

I'm having clearance problems with the bulkhead linkage rod after converting to RHD.

The inner fulcrum bar has to be spaced off the bulkhead by 5mm to clear the wiper motor this I know. All the pictures I can find of the outer fulcrum mount on the bulkhead, the one that is directly above the accelerator arm show it bolted directly to the bulkhead.

If I do this the long connecting rod rubs against the mounting bar. If I space the outer mount out, I then have problems with the expansion bottle

Long story short, has anyone got pictures of an original Rhd set up that works correctly?

Thanks in advance. 1969 Series 2 OTS RHD

Simon

[politeperson]

This linkage is still warm, just done 70 miles.

This is my converted lhd car, works very well.

Is this of any use? hope so. Let me know if I have missed the important bit.

Its not clean, then again its a 48 year old car!

[politeperson]

Oh, I know i have too many return springs!

[288gto]

Very interesting.

Your inner fulcrum bar that spans the wiper motor gap looks to bolt directly to the bulkhead without the need for spacers. Mine hits the wiper motor and has to be spaced off the bulkhead. This then makes the rod hit the bracket. (pic when I get home)

Secondly on yours, I notice the expansion bottle will accept longer spacers without causing problems elsewhere.

I also notice that you have an extra spring on the lever to outer fulcrum mount. Without this does the linkage drag or stick?

Thanks.

Simon

[politeperson]

Simon,

I suspect my extra spring could now be removed.

The return spring tension should be adjusted on the throttle spindle clamp I now realise.

I forgot about this attempt to restore idle speed. My pedal pressure is still fine, so I have left it.

PS just come back from a drive with the head tech at out franchised BMW dealership.

He drives exotic moderns everyday for fussy customers M2s M3s, M5s etc. He also builds stunt plane engines in his spare time.

I let him drive the S2. He loves it. It says it really shifts. It does.

[288gto]

This is the problem.





Chris Rooke's book shows and mentions spacers on the inner fulcrum bracket to clear the wiper motor but doesn't seem to have the problem of the rod hitting the bracket.

I really don't like the fact the two fulcrum mounts are not in line. The rod is working at a slightly offset angle.

I don't want to start modifying the bracket to clear the motor but it may well be that I need to make a new custom bracket.

It would appear the Series 1 4.2s didn't have this problem possibly due to a different wiper motor.

Has anyone noticed spacers under their outer fulcrum mount?


Simon

[Gfhug]

Simon, I had the same problem (shown in your last two photos) on my S2 of the rod scratching along the braket and it had been there when I bought the car, so who knows how long it was like that.

I did the non-concours solution, filed the bracket down a bit so the rod clear it (don't tell everyone!!)

Geoff

[paulsco]

Simon,

It may be an optical illusion, but your bracket looks a lot deeper than politepersons, which may be why it is rubbing.
My Series One bracket is a similar depth as poitepersons?

Paul

[288gto]

Thanks Paul and Geoff,

Paul, I think it is just the photo. It is the same depth as the LHD bracket I swapped it for. It would nevertheless stand a small amount taking off it so that is an option.

Out of interest do both yours and Geoff's have the spacers on the inner bracket to clear the wiper motor? As I said above, I don't like the offset angle this produces.

Again thanks for everyone's quick replies and help.

Simon

[Gfhug]

Simon, yes spacers behind the bracket to clear the wiper motor. About an inch length of the top angle filed back to give clearance.
I've not felt any angles are bad and I get full travel of throttle pedal and all linkages and the carb butterflies (though, as discussed elsewhere, getting that sorted can be a bit long winded, but do-able).

Geoff

[politeperson]

Here are a couple more of the interesting bits.

In your situation I would definitely whip a couple of mm off that top angle with the cutting wheel.