The 'E' Type Forum

I'm just in the throws of stripping the front suspension from my car, and it looks as though the components
[wishbones, torsion bars, AR bar, drop links etc] came out of the factory simply painted? Is that correct? But I've noticed that some restorers appear to zinc plate?? these components. Or perhaps this is just another type of painting or coating? If it is zinc plating, I'm guessing that it's done for a combination of corrosion protection, and aesthetics?? And any thoughts on an adjustable reaction plate?
Andy

The main suspension components were cadmium plated with the exception of the torsion bars and reaction plate which were black. Drop links were black IIRC. Fitting an adjustable reaction plate is a no brainer, should be standard practice on all restorations as it makes life so simple!

Can you add what series and year your car is to your signature please as it will make answering questions a lot easier for us.

I saw a very nice restoration at E Type UK or whatever they're called (near Tonbridge) which had the suspension components painted hammer-finish silver over the top of cadmium (or more likely zinc) plating. Looked very nice & I'm debating whether to do the same to mine.
And yes, the adjustable reaction plate is indeed a no-brainer. Anybody want to buy my old original non-adjustable one? Cheap?

Consider zinc-nickel plating rather than just zinc, it's a more robust plate. Also check your upper wishbones for wear, I think it was mentioned that Angus Moss can get them reworked to eliminate wear effects, though check with him.

Geoff

I really dont see the need for the adjustable reaction plate.....unless your useing you car for track days....on a road car once your suspension height is set you are never going change it, and even if you do need to the torsion bars have ofset splines at each end to give minute adjustment and it really is a much easier job to adjust than its made out to be.....once youve done it once you will wonder what all the fuss was about... Steve

Gfhug wrote:Consider zinc-nickel plating rather than just zinc, it's a more robust plate. Also check your upper wishbones for wear, I think it was mentioned that Angus Moss can get them reworked to eliminate wear effects, though check with him.

Geoff

I think mine were zinc plated with a clear passivate, whatever that may be. I was offered a range of options by the platers & that was looked the closest to the original. I do believe nickel came up for discussion but they counselled against it. I can't remember why though, which is a fat lot of good I know.

Hi Andy,

I don't know if you saw this from my S2 restoration update.

Quote..." playing about with dinitrol 4010 wax coating over the plated wishbones. I have to say I quite like the results and will be doing more. I'd be interested in others thoughts...."




It's electroless nickel plating followed by two coats of dinitrol 4010 which has a slight yellow tinge to it. You can also just see the end of a Rob Beere adjustable reaction plate that I intend to fit.


Simon

And new top pins? Mine are not all nice and smooth like yours.
One of us is clearly psychic. When did you do this? I did exactly the same a couple of months ago. "Corroheat", isn't it? But I think I'm going to take it off again. The coating remains slightly tacky for a long time - maybe forever - and my wishbones are getting a bit grubby just from being handled & moved around. I have a feeling that when they're on the road, the dirt may just stick to them and make them look nasty. Mind you, mine went on a bit heavy as I have the wrong nozzle on my can. I have a collection of aerosol cans with no nozzles, and a collection of nozzles that don't fit any of my cans. Weird.

Hugo, I did mine with a spray gun with a 1.8mm needle and compressor, This was a couple of weeks ago and I have just caressed them again in the drawer. They aren't sticky at all, more of a waxy feel to them. It did concern me that they would remain sticky, hence just doing the top ones as a bit of an experiment.

Simon