The 'E' Type Forum

I have a horrible noise coming from the gearbox cover when cornering fast. I suspect the gearbox mount needs replacing. Is there a tried and tested method of proving / disproving this, or is it a question of visual inspection?

Thanks

Visual, plus bouncing it around to replicate the clunk. Check the stabiliser and maybe back it off to ease the clunk investigations?

PeterCrespin wrote:Check the stabiliser and maybe back it off to ease the clunk investigations?

What he said. Having the engine stabiliser too tight can lead to some awful noises from the tunnel.

I was just looking at a 2010 post on this topic. I understand the stabiliser should take NO static load, i.e. the engine/gbox should be completely supported by the engine mounts at the front and the big spring at the gearbox end. Then the stabiliser tightened up without exerting any upward lift on the unit.

Is that correct? And can an expert advise - is it worth replacing the rear spring (i.e. will it have sagged over 50 years)?

Correct - it is a 'stabiliser' not a mounting point. Instructions for setting are in the service manual. Unlikely the big spring has failed although it could have been compressed with time I suppose. Try setting the stabiliser as per instructions and then take a view if the rear mount needs replacing.

Thanks all. Can the gearbox mount be inspected / repaired from underneath the car, or do I need to remove the gearbox cover?

You get to it from under the car.... Steve

Yes, drop the exhaust and you can remove the four bolts, it will then drop down. Getting it back does require some muscle though!

Heuer wrote:Yes, drop the exhaust and you can remove the four bolts, it will then drop down. Getting it back does require some muscle though!

Beware, he spring is quite strong. Hold the plate in place using a jack while removing the bolts. Then release the jack slowly. Refitting needs the jack.

I removed mine when I discovered that continuous oil leaking has perished the rubber components. This allowed the spigot to rattle against the plate.

On my car I also found that a PO (an E-Type retailer no longer in existence) had use new bolts instead of set screws to mount the plate. The shank of these bolts had destroyed the threads of the captive nuts meaning I had to use new nuts on top of the captives to secure th plate. Not the easiest of tasks.

To help disassemble and/or assemble this, you can back out one of the bolts and replace with a longer bolt of the same thread and then repeat with the others. Then go around again with even longer bolts.

What you are achieving is to safely handle the tension of the big spring using small steps as it'll only ever be able to jump as far as the longer bolt allows.

kind regards
Marek

Thanks again.

Am I right in saying that there are only two engine mounts? Looking at some of the diagrams, there seems to be what looks like a REAR engine mount?

No. Only 2. It's confusing as the gearbox mount appears in the parts catalogue in the engine diagram (plate 1), between flywheel and rear oil seal. Took me a while to find it.

+1 for what Marek wrote, safest and one man job.