The 'E' Type Forum

Evening gents,
Just a quick question regarding the rear hub water throwers. In changing the hub bearings, the original water thrower had to be sacrificed.
Silly me, I forgot my previous experiences of reproduction parts....
The new water thrower (from a well known supplier) has an internal diameter that is too small to fit and indeed doesn’t even look perfectly circular!
In view of the fact that there is an oil seal and I believe in a previous post on the forum, the thought is that the thrower is unnecessary in any case, I’m minded to not go to the hassle of trying to fettle the repro one and just not fit it.
Thoughts appreciated!
Many thanks,
Rich

I usually leave them off, but then I do live in the driest State on the driest continent.

Rich Wrote
Just a quick question regarding the rear hub water throwers. In changing the hub bearings, the original water thrower had to be sacrificed.

Hello Rich,
Why did the water throwers have to be sacrificed? We replace rear hub bearings on a regular basis and have done so for years, without any loss of the throwers.

Regards,

Bill

Hi Rich

Long time, no speak.

Definitely fit the throwers. There's no downside to having them there stopping the water getting to the seals.

Regards

Morning gents,
Yes, long time no hear, but I am plodding on with the car
At work we have an engineering dept with some large presses - so I asked one if the engineers to help me. He explained he had no choice but to take off the water thrower to press the bearing out and in a destructive way. He’s been so helpful, I trust that for his equipment this Is the case - who am I to argue with (free) invaluable help like this!
So anyway, we are where we are - the annoyance is that this new water thrower has been so badly pressed that will need quite a bit of work to try to rectify it. Hence the question as to whether the consensus is that fitting them is entirely necessary.
Back to the drawing board I guess!
Many thanks for the advice,
Rich

Hi Richard..i have new hubs from MWS.....throwers are already fitted.....worth contacting the and see if tbey can supply or who makes them......you could also try putting your hub in the freezer for a couple of hours....and heating the thrower....it will possibly then slip on....Steve

Hi Steve, thanks for the tip - helpful chap at MWS gave me a lead and i’ll try your method in the meantime. Cheers, Rich

Hello Rich,
Given your current predicament, I can't say I'd describe the help as being invaluable.

On S3 and other late Hub Carriers, the lugs shown enclosed in Red in the following picture (Hub 1) are included. For these hubs I have a fixture for the press that supports the hub carrier on these points and the outside of the Fulcrum Shaft housing shown in the picture Hub2.

Hub 1
Hub 2
For all other Hub Carriers (missing the above features), they are setup as shown in the following picture (Hub3).

Hub 3
The interference fit of the bearing and the hub is not that great, therefore the hubs press out relatively easily. However, to give the hub every opportunity to move:

1. after removing the inner seal, I put the assembly in the freezer for a couple of hours

2. the press is made ready, with all required tools to hand

3. when the assembly comes out of the freezer, its quickly set up in the press and heat from an oxy-actylene frame is focused on the outside of the inner race of the bearing. Notwithstanding that the inner race and the OD of the hub are in close contact, they each move independent of the other sufficient to lessen the interference between the two. This results in less force required to press the hub from the inner bearing.

Occasionally we have liquid Nitrogen available from other work going on. On these occasions, the bearing is heated until uncomfortable to touch and after the bottom of the internal spline has been plugged and the hub secured in a large 3 jar chuck on the floor, the internal spline is filled with liquid Nitrogen. After a minute, or so, the Hub Carrier, with the inner bearing, is lifted from the hub.

I've also removed many rear hubs from their inner bearings without using a press, by using a brass, top hat shaped component that locates in the bore of the hub, with a thick flange to protect the end of the hub.

After carrying out the step 1 above and supporting the hub carrier as shown in picture Hub3 (except without the press), the inner race is quickly heated as in step 3, before drifting the hub from the bearing using a suitable arbor and "dead blow hammer".

In all cases, the Water Thrower is not touched.

Regards,

Bill

Thanks Bill, your detailed method is very interesting and I am sure others on the forum will profit from it.
Hopefully I won’t need this for another, oh, 20 years?!
Cheers,
Rich

Rich Wrote:

Thanks Bill, your detailed method is very interesting and I am sure others on the forum will profit from it.

Hello Rich,
The method of support shown in picture Hub 3 in my previous Post, is shown in the Jaguar Repair Operation Manual, at least in the manual for the S3 it is. Accordingly, my procedure is not novel. My variation is that I lessen the degree of interference between the inner race of the inner bearing and the hub to make pressing the hub from the bearing easier.

Regards,

Bill