Restored Car...What to do before putting on the road.

[FHCINSC]

Hello and thank you in advance for your time.
I have been a long time lurker and admirer of this vehicle, and I finally have made a purchase of a 69 FHC. This car has been extensively restored, but has yet to have been driven post restoration to work out any problems.
I am awaiting shipment of the car and will know more for certain when it arrives.
For now, I would like to ask for your thoughts about what you would check before putting a restored car on the road.
This restoration has been many years in progress and by two different owners (though probably more like 80% restored by the first owner who started the restoration.
Because of this, I feel it is possible that many of the cars systems have been stagnant for too long.
Some concerns that come to mind immediately, are fluid changes everywhere unless I can find documentation it has been done recently.
Engine timing, gas tank condition, fuel filter, brakes, clutch bleed, transmission concerns, charging system, cooling system, alignment. You get the idea. If you bought a car that had been restored, but not driven, what would you be checking before driving it?

Thanks again for your time!

[abowie]

The brakes. Check oil and coolant levels.

Then just drive it.

[cactusman]

When I did my mg years back the first runs were fraught with nerves. As said brakes, coolant and oil levels. Also look for fuel leaks and electrical gremlins too. Take it gently until you are sure all is
Well. Have fun

[Lost Horizon]

Was the Engine rebuilt as part of the restoration? If so, you should "break it in". In my case, I used a break in oil for the first 500 miles, and kept the revs below 3000 rpm. If you don't know whether the head has been retorqued after the first run up to temperature, you should probably do that just to start out on the right foot ..

At around 500 miles, retorque the head again. It's cheap insurance. Also spend time in retightening just about every nut and bolt all over the car and drive train. Change the oil and filter to whatever you are going to use after the break in, run it for another thousand miles and check the bolts again.

Always check the fluid levels from front to back, and like it has been said above, if in doubt about any of them, change them so you know the starting point for certain.

I have 2000 miles since my restoration, on the highways, in the mountains and the city. The car has been a perfect worry free friend, which I credit to following the above.

[ralphr1780]

Hi, what's your name?
Nice car, you must be quite thrilled to have it home.
What the others have said, plus:
. check that rear brake lights / headlamps / turn signal / flasher / horn are all operational.
. let the engine run on idle for a good 10min (without choke), raising revs from time to time, and check for eventual leaks, keep an eye on temperature gauge and look for radiator fan operation.
. make sure you have enough gasoline in the tank (as your fuel gauge might be inaccurate).
. reflective safety jacket, proper insurance, road-assistance card, mobile phone, credit card, 5 liter water jerrican.
. stay within a moderate distance from home, ask family or fellow to drive behind.

Wishing you good times!

[PeterCrespin]

“...restoration has been many years in progress”

Define ‘many’ and what climate? I recently drove an immaculate V12 with perfect-looking tyres, until the entire tread band came off at 70 whilst Mark Gordon was driving it.

New tyre labels don’t negate ten years of dry heat, for example, if they are that old.

[FHCINSC]

Thanks all for the replies.
My name is Anthony.
The car lived its whole life in California. I’m in SC.
I’ll definitely check the history of the fluid changes as well as to visually inspect them. If any doubt I’ll change them. And I’ll retorque the heads.
I do know the tires are less than 1 year old.
Good suggestions about the can of water and fuel leaks. Thanks so much!
More info to come after the first drive.

[FHCINSC]

Hello All. Still awaiting the arrival of this fine machine. Will be soon!
I wanted to ask about the gap under the rear taillights that you can see in picture 4.
It’s hard to find other pics of E-types from that angle but general consensus from people I’ve asked is that these gaps should not be visible. Is this an improperly adjusted bumper issue?
Thanks!!

[cactusman]

Minor point but image 6 looking at the sump and exhaust pipes I see two pipe clamps with the nuts and hence the u clamp stud ends sticking down. Bound to catch on a road hump. Turn them 90 degrees so the studs don't point down

[JerryL770]

I wanted to ask about the gap under the rear taillights that you can see in picture 4.
It’s hard to find other pics of E-types from that angle but general consensus from people I’ve asked is that these gaps should not be visible. Is this an improperly adjusted bumper issue?
Thanks!!

Hard to say with a picture taken from that angle, seems likely a gap is bound to show.

More important would be a direct rear view. From there on mine, I can see all the light chrome rim at the outside edge and it slowly gets less visible toward the centre of the car.

This is mine:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/08aq2toem96a2 ... p.jpg?dl=0

[AshM]

Jerome

Are you not missing the side chrome caps that surround the outer ends of the rear lights?

It may just be the angle of the photograph so forgive me if I am being dim.

Cheers
Ash

[Lost Horizon]

Your's looks like it's correct. here's mine

[Jeff Poston]

The only thing I would add to all of the excellent recommendations is to check the clutch slave cylinder for operation and for leaks

[JerryL770]

Jerome

Are you not missing the side chrome caps that surround the outer ends of the rear lights?

It may just be the angle of the photograph so forgive me if I am being dim.

Cheers
Ash

In fact I'm not, but I had to go out in the garage to check

That picture was taken before they were installed. Also I now have a rectangular (oblong) number plate and S1 tail pipes. I think it looks better

Ta. Jerry

[FHCINSC]

Hello All. The Xke has finally arrived however my mechanic resources have not been available due to Thanksgiving.
The car appears to be what was described, however some items such as the door weatherstripping were done very sloppy and will need to be redone.

I’ve managed to put 19 miles on the car in my neighborhood which is remarkable because I found out today the distributor was not tightened and can be turned by hand. The PO did tell me it would need to have the timing set...I had no idea it was already loose.

I wanted to ask about the ignition components. It’s a Pertronix Flamethrower distributor, not sure about the coil, and Rists Suppressor 1015 wires. I’m probably mostly curious about these wires as the FT says not to use solid core wires. Are these solid core?

What would you use to reglue the weatherstripping?

Thank you?