The 'E' Type Forum

Hello. I found out recently that my spinners on the rear are on the wrong sides. They are unable to be swapped as the threading on the hub doesn’t allow it. This obviously means that the hubs are on the wrong sides of the car. What would be involved in changing this?
Thank you very much
Anthony

Hi Anthony.......i think the easiest way will be to swop the hub/carrier with the drive shaft from one side to the other.......4 nuts holding inner end of driveshaft to diff.....and lower fulcrum shaft holding carrier to wishbone....you could remove the driveshaft from the hub if you have a press/puller but they are usually difficult to remove....Steve

Unbolt the whole thing, hub, carrier, halfshaft and walk it around the other side. No need to separate the halfshafts from the hub. Simple but heavy. I mounted mine on the wrong side, only noticing when I put the wheels back on and realised from the spinners that the hubs were on the wrong side. Whatever you do, do not drive the car until the hubs are correct. If you do, the spinners will undo, you will watch a wheel overtake you as the car grinds to a halt.

mgcjag wrote: ↑

Thu Apr 04, 2019 6:05 pm

.i think the easiest way will be to swop the hub/carrier with the drive shaft from one side to the other.

Brilliant idea.

Take care when removing the outer fulcrum shaft that you don't disturb any shims that might be in there to provide the bearing endfloat. Easiest way to do this is to make up a dummy shaft the same diameter as the fulcrum shaft and exactly the width of the hub carrier. Don't worry if this sounds difficult; it isn't. A wooden dowel will do the trick. Just feed it in behind the fulcrum shaft as you remove it

There are also shims behind the halfshaft that set the camber. You should be fine with leaving these as they are on the basis that both halfshafts should be exactly the same length. You could always check the camber once you're finished to make sure. Adjustment is easy if need be; each shim gives you 1/4 of a degree.

Don‘t the spinners say „offside“ or „passenger side“ or something like that ? Interesting when your car is an LHD....

Carsten

Mine don't say that Carsten. Simply have arrows saying which way to undo. They would be correct regardless of LHD/RHD

Durango2k wrote: ↑

Fri Apr 05, 2019 3:48 am

Don‘t the spinners say „offside“ or „passenger side“ or something like that ? Interesting when your car is an LHD....

Carsten

It's to confuse the Hun.

Hi Carsten....yes....if its a Jaguar spinner it should say..... right (off)side....or left (near)side with an arrow (undo) Right/Left side of the car is always the same on rhd or lhd cars.....Steve

If you don’t have a wooden dowel as Andrew said in post #4, just use a length of easily available 15mm domestic copper water pipe, which is easy and soft to drift through.
Cheers,
Dave
P.S. Sorry, just seen that you are in the US, so not sure if you have as easy access to 15mm copper pipe as us in the UK, but worth remembering for UK people working on assembling the fulcrum shafts on the differential.

Apologies Carsten, just been out to the car and it does say more on the spinners! It says eg "offside" but in brackets "right" as well as the undo direction, so you can't confuse them.

abowie wrote: ↑

Fri Apr 05, 2019 8:21 am

Durango2k wrote: ↑

Fri Apr 05, 2019 3:48 am

Don‘t the spinners say „offside“ or „passenger side“ or something like that ? Interesting when your car is an LHD....

Carsten

It's to confuse the Hun.

Yeah, like Brexit...

Carsten

Hello all. Thanks for the responses.
I may be confused as I don’t know all the terms of the inventory behind the wheel.
It seems that Chrisfell is proposing a method which negates the need for the pipe or dowel. Is that correct and do others concur this would work?
Thanks all
Anthony
PS. Yes in US...car is LHD and the spinners do day left and right on them. While on the subject....American classics which have spinners have a safety wire. Is this ever done on Jags?

Hi Anthony.....i sugested moveing the hub/carrier/driveshaft as a unit......but i didnt give details how to do it....i would recomend reading the service manual so that you understand how everything fits together.....in particular the lower fulcrum shaft that goes through the hub carrier.....there are bearings/seals/spacers/shims all held in place by the shaft.....some will fall out if you remove the hub without useing a dummy shaft as recommend .....and probably even with useing a dummy shaft shims will fall out....so by reading up before hand you will know how it goes together.......Jag spinners dont need lock wire and iv never seen it fitted on one....Steve

Hello all. Have had a little trouble finding a shop to help me fix this. May have someone now though. We had the car up on the lift and there is some play between the hub and hub carrier on both sides of the car. Is this a guaranteed bad wheel bearing or could it be a spacer/shim issue? Or perhaps not torqued properly.
I’m fairly certain I have receipts for new wheel bearings so I presume there is a good chance they are new.
Here is video.

Hi Anthony.....far too much movement....it should only be between 0.002-0.006in full details in the service manual there is no adjustment by tightening.....however it the split pin has been removed and the nut loosened that would cause movement.........The inner and outer bearings are assembled between the hub and carrier and a shim of known dimension (service manual for size) is used initially.....the movement is then measured with a dial guage.....you can then calculate thicknes of shim needed...to achive endfloat....not complicated but you need to read the service manual procedure a few times to understand exactly what needs to be done....Steve

I managed to get everything swapped from side to side as we discussed here. Thanks to all. There is still some play but a friend with an e-type measured it with his dial gauge. It will have to be a project for another day. For now, I’m happy to be rolling my spinners in the correct directions.
Thanks
Anthony

When you come to adjust the end float , just to be clear about the thickness of the spacer required to get the correct end float, if you have too much play ( which you do ) you need a thinner not a thicker spacer . I know this is counter intuitive, but it is the way it works