The 'E' Type Forum

Hi,
Appreciate this topic has been covered many time over many years however the info is somewhat baffling and at times contradictory.
So a call out to 2+2 owners who have actually done this mod with just a few simple questions.
1/ Do the original Jag non overdrive KJS101boxes and or the S type compact MOD boxes fit straight in without any modifications whatsoever ie cutting transmission tunnel or cross member?

2/Are there any 5 speed kits out there that actually pop straight in without the need for any such cutting etc.?

What appears to be the best developed kit from the US is no longer available and there seems significant compromises with fitting the current T5 clones from various suppliers at ‘various’ prices!
Again the Supra box conversion which on the face of it appears good value apparently requires cross member cutting and shunting.

What I cannot determine is if all these issues relate to only the more cramped transmission tunnels of the FHC and OTS.

I thought I would ask those that have undertaken the actual conversion on 2 + 2s rather than rely on the knowledge of sales departments, who allege their kits are simple swaps!!

Can anyone who has actually got their hands dirty undertaking this conversion definitively point me in the right direction of current options?

Thanks,

Nigel.

Yes you can fit the compact overdrive gearbox straight in
You don't have to change the propshaft either

viewtopic.php?t=3204

Thanks for the link
Will give this conversion a go
Most bits now located
Now need to find some workshop space for a couple of weeks

Depending what box you decide on make sure it has the gear lever in the correct position.....usually if useing an xj6 box and o/d you would need an E type box cover....Steve

Hi Nigel
We have no idea how much you know about the conversion that you are contemplating. So I'll ask if you realise that this is fairly major undertaking involving the removal of the engine/transmission unit? Which involves the removal of the bonnet & partial dismantling of the front suspension to mention just a few of the associated tasks. Plus altering the pedal box to accommodate a clutch pedal etc etc. So, akin to the old adage 'If you want a faster car, then buy a faster car" if you want a manual shift car, perhaps buy a manual shift car?

Removal of the engine does not require partial dismantling of the front suspension ( although that makes removal of the reaction plate easier) , although that is not all that difficult if you follow the instructions in the workshop manual

Just picking up what Steve correctly mentions above - the gearbox top cover will need to be changed - it may help to know the cover is common to 420's and 'S' types (and maybe others) of the period not just E-types. It has also been remade now I believe.


Barrie

Hi Gents,

Thanks for all the responses.

Yes appreciate it is engine out surgery and it will be my first on an e type but have taken out a fair few engines in cars and boats in the past and have recently taken the body off my Disco 4 to swap the turbos, so can envisage what the gremlins may have in store for me.

The pedal box is already there and only requires a few hours work to install the additional clutch pedal and master cylinder etc.

More concerned about the potential panel work involved and how much of the top of the transmission tunnel I may have to remove to get the gearbox to fit as I do not want to spoil the car and hate cutting into sound bodyshell unless absolutely necessary.

I was not seeking an auto 2+2 but having viewed several manuals, all of which were tarted up or rebuilt poorly it was a no brainer on viewing this 2 owner auto but the MOD conversion, which on my understanding can only be completed in the 2 + 2, is just too much of temptation not to try.

That said the BW 8 does work well but having been spoiled with multi geared autos I do miss another intermediate gear.

I have acquired an S type box and understand that the top plate and selector mechanism are in the correct position, although please advise if this is assumption is not correct.

Fortunately, I do not have to finance the eyewatering labour charges some are apparently charging for such conversions and the engine, although a lump, is a simple design with no electronics, induction pipes etc etc to disturb.

Once I have rebuilt the gearbox and overdrive I will let you know how I go on.

All the best,

Nigel.

The auto transmission tunnel is larger than the manual - so you should have plenty of room. Some revert to the manual cars panelwork so the car looks more original. Depending on which gearbox you use will determine how you approach your conversion.

Barrie

Nigel....the gearbox if a S type should be a JBN....and stamped on a small lug on the side case of the box at the top...the same JBN should also be stamped on the top cover....it should be a straight swap....Steve

tinworm wrote: ↑

Fri Feb 05, 2021 8:42 am

Just picking up what Steve correctly mentions above - the gearbox top cover will need to be changed -

The thread is about converting an auto. Autos do not have to change top covers. Whenever I sold an MOD kit to an auto owner I pointed out they were lucky to have the potential of getting a ‘better’ conversion than the manual cars whilst saving money twice-over in the process.

The long top XJ boxes are cheaper due to supply and demand, whilst offering a gear stick position that comes out a couple of inches rearwward, more or less exactly where the selectir lever comes through the sloping automatic console trim. For taller drivers this rear position can be nice if the seats are right back and it saves buying a manual console etc. (which always looks slightly odd perched on the wide auto tunnel anyhow).

Two choices, two savings, and provided you switch to a softer spring than under the hugely heavy auto box the chances are you’ll avoid cutting and need only a bit of hammering to fit.

Thanks Steve and Peter,
Yes it is a JBN box so have at least got that right.
I read somewhere that the gearbox tunnel aperture where the auto selector and rods etc etc has to be cut out using a manual inspection cover as a template but I hate cutting unnecessarily so will do an initial fit first and see how much of the upper gearbox tunnel is in way.
Thanks again and will try to complete a video of it for those that are interested as there is some well meaning but conflicting info on different sites.
Should keep me out of trouble once I have everything prepped.
All the best,
Nigel.

Nigel

The easiest way to remove the engine & gearbox is from below, especially if you have access to a four post lift as I did. Although a friend managed it with an engine hoist and a large concrete block.
This method avoids having to remove and store the bonnet somewhere and the radiator can also remain in situ. The only downside is you have to remove most of the engine ancillaries first.

Thanks for this advice Alan.

Did you have to remove the reaction plate to drop it out or could you manage to clear it by tilting the engine and rolling it forward on a dolly?

So this may be an easier option as I have been doing some head scratching as to how and where to store the bonnet.

All the best,
Nigel

Hi Nigel reaction plate needs to come out......bonnet can be stored standing on end......Steve

http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php? ... net#p42910

http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=12877

The above two will show you how to easily remove the bonnet single handed and a bonnet stand to wheel it around on. That should help you feel confident to do the job and make it easy to do. I’ve followed the single handed bonnet removal tip several times and have made up my own mobile bonnet stand from the diagrams in the second link. Good luck.

Geoff

Thanks for this Geoff.

If you are confident, then you can always cut and reweld the long top cover the way I did. This is almost 15 years old and only the thumbnails remain. See http://www.jag-lovers.org/snaps/snap_vi ... 1170885932

I have the original cut pictures on another computer.

kind regards
Marek