Leaking coil
#1 Leaking coil
If my car is not started for a longer period of time [maybe 10 days or more] it is very disinclined to burst into life. The car starts immediately if it has not been left. As one last throw of the dice, I replaced the virtually brand new Lucas Gold coil with a Bosch Blue.
It made no difference whatsoever. On Sunday after returning from Goodwood I noticed that a brown substance has started to leak from the top of this coil. Wonder if anyone on here has ever experienced this? I have a feeling the coil is oil filled which I think is what is leaking?
When contacted, the Amazon seller simply refunded me and didn't want the item back.
It made no difference whatsoever. On Sunday after returning from Goodwood I noticed that a brown substance has started to leak from the top of this coil. Wonder if anyone on here has ever experienced this? I have a feeling the coil is oil filled which I think is what is leaking?
When contacted, the Amazon seller simply refunded me and didn't want the item back.
Andy
1970 S2 FHC
1965 SB Corvette Ragtop
1970 S2 FHC
1965 SB Corvette Ragtop
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#2 Re: Leaking coil
Hi Andy...yes iv seen coils leak...re starting.....I assume that your waiting for the fuel pump to stop ticking befor you try to start and your choke is correctly set up.....Steve
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (just sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
69 S2 2+2 (just sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
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#3 Re: Leaking coil
A lot of coils are oil filled. If it's leaking replace it.
Andrew.
881824, 1E21538. 889457. 1961 4.3l Mk2. 1975 XJS. 1962 MGB
http://www.projectetype.com/index.php/the-blog.html
Adelaide, Australia
881824, 1E21538. 889457. 1961 4.3l Mk2. 1975 XJS. 1962 MGB
http://www.projectetype.com/index.php/the-blog.html
Adelaide, Australia
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#4 Re: Leaking coil
A genuine Bosch blue coil should be solidified epoxy filled, and therefore incapable of leaking.
Leaking oil filled coils are often caused by overheating, or may simply be down to inferior manufacturing.
Leaking oil filled coils are often caused by overheating, or may simply be down to inferior manufacturing.
Steve
'65 S1 4.2 FHC (early)
'65 S1 4.2 FHC (early)
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#5 Re: Leaking coil
Hi Steve & Steve
I've read a lot about starting these engines after they've been left for a while and I always wait until the pump stops, and I always use full choke. Having said that I came back from Goodwood on Sunday and started the car again yesterday and it fired and ran immediately with no choke. The carbs were professionally overhauled and set up, and I'm definitely getting full choke, and the entire ignition system is brand new.
As for my coil, it was definitely and oily substance leaking so judging from what you say about epoxy, I'm guessing that my purchase was ersatz? The packaging did look very correct as did the accompanying literature though.
I've read a lot about starting these engines after they've been left for a while and I always wait until the pump stops, and I always use full choke. Having said that I came back from Goodwood on Sunday and started the car again yesterday and it fired and ran immediately with no choke. The carbs were professionally overhauled and set up, and I'm definitely getting full choke, and the entire ignition system is brand new.
As for my coil, it was definitely and oily substance leaking so judging from what you say about epoxy, I'm guessing that my purchase was ersatz? The packaging did look very correct as did the accompanying literature though.
Andy
1970 S2 FHC
1965 SB Corvette Ragtop
1970 S2 FHC
1965 SB Corvette Ragtop
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#6 Re: Leaking coil
check carb float valves aren't sticking
3.8 OTS 1964
Original RHD. Close ratio moss box
Original RHD. Close ratio moss box
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#7 Re: Leaking coil
It seems that not all Bosch Blue are the same.....https://ratwell.com/technical/BlueCoil.html from what iv read the epoxy filled have a steel case.......oil filled have an aluminium case.....Steve
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (just sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
69 S2 2+2 (just sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
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#8 Re: Leaking coil
If you leave a car with SUs to sit the fuel in the bowls will evaporate; they're open to atmosphere. I assume this is also true of Strombergs.
So after a while whatever fuel is in there (if any) isn't fresh and has lost the more volatile (and flammable) hydrocarbons. Depending on your tune this may make the car harder to start.
So after a while whatever fuel is in there (if any) isn't fresh and has lost the more volatile (and flammable) hydrocarbons. Depending on your tune this may make the car harder to start.
Andrew.
881824, 1E21538. 889457. 1961 4.3l Mk2. 1975 XJS. 1962 MGB
http://www.projectetype.com/index.php/the-blog.html
Adelaide, Australia
881824, 1E21538. 889457. 1961 4.3l Mk2. 1975 XJS. 1962 MGB
http://www.projectetype.com/index.php/the-blog.html
Adelaide, Australia
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#9 Re: Leaking coil
Hi Andrew
I've read a lot about poor starting if these engines have been left for a while. Length of the intake tract, not getting full choke etc, but I love your hydrocarbon explanation. And it really makes sense. If left for a while, I crank my engine for around 5 seconds, and then one cylinder coughs. This is repeated maybe 4 times and then several cylinders fire and the engine stumbles a bit. This happens a few times, and the engine eventually reluctantly starts. In stark contrast, if the engine hasn't been left, I turn the ignition on, pull the choke out, wait for the pump to stop ticking and turn the key. The engine fires and and settles at a smooth idle immediately.
I'd like to say I'm getting more used to it, but in truth it irritates the hell out of me!!
I've read a lot about poor starting if these engines have been left for a while. Length of the intake tract, not getting full choke etc, but I love your hydrocarbon explanation. And it really makes sense. If left for a while, I crank my engine for around 5 seconds, and then one cylinder coughs. This is repeated maybe 4 times and then several cylinders fire and the engine stumbles a bit. This happens a few times, and the engine eventually reluctantly starts. In stark contrast, if the engine hasn't been left, I turn the ignition on, pull the choke out, wait for the pump to stop ticking and turn the key. The engine fires and and settles at a smooth idle immediately.
I'd like to say I'm getting more used to it, but in truth it irritates the hell out of me!!
Andy
1970 S2 FHC
1965 SB Corvette Ragtop
1970 S2 FHC
1965 SB Corvette Ragtop
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#10 Re: Leaking coil
Andy...are you opetating (pukping) the throttle with your foot when trying to start.....this will cause starting issues....Steve
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (just sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
69 S2 2+2 (just sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
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#11 Re: Leaking coil
Andy, it’s character building like getting pressure up on a steam engine or hand cranking an Olympus. I imagine a modern day pee-lot would be horrified to think there used to be engineers on hairyplanes to monitor all those gauges instead of a dark screen with nothing showing
Cheers and keep on enjoying your car
Geoff
S2 FHC Light Blue
S2 OTS LHD - RHD full restoration
S2 OTS LHD - RHD full restoration
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#12 Re: Leaking coil
Andy,
Even after a multi month winter layup I find my car will start well after 5-10 seconds of cranking. After a only a couple of weeks of not running it starts almost immediately on full choke, and then will idle (slightly high) on one click up of the choke lever.
My preferred method of starting after a layup of many weeks or months is to crank the engine without the choke on for two bursts of 5 'cranks' with a very brief pause (maybe 2 seconds) in between to build up a bit of oil pressure. Then full choke which yields and instant start.
I am running a 123+ distributor, FWIW.
I suspect you do not have your choke mechanism fully sorted (i.e. functioning fully and equally across all three carbs), and you may have other exacerbating issues such as improper float level or hardened pump jet diaphragms, the latter being an issue only if it's been a decade or more since they were replaced.
Fuel doesn't 'go off' within 10 days, btw. That takes many months.
Even after a multi month winter layup I find my car will start well after 5-10 seconds of cranking. After a only a couple of weeks of not running it starts almost immediately on full choke, and then will idle (slightly high) on one click up of the choke lever.
My preferred method of starting after a layup of many weeks or months is to crank the engine without the choke on for two bursts of 5 'cranks' with a very brief pause (maybe 2 seconds) in between to build up a bit of oil pressure. Then full choke which yields and instant start.
I am running a 123+ distributor, FWIW.
I suspect you do not have your choke mechanism fully sorted (i.e. functioning fully and equally across all three carbs), and you may have other exacerbating issues such as improper float level or hardened pump jet diaphragms, the latter being an issue only if it's been a decade or more since they were replaced.
Fuel doesn't 'go off' within 10 days, btw. That takes many months.
Steve
'65 S1 4.2 FHC (early)
'65 S1 4.2 FHC (early)
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#13 Re: Leaking coil
This is an interesting problem.
Some people might not agree with this but, if my engine hasn't been started for a while I pull the fuel pump fuse, disconnect the coil ignition feed and spin the engine on the starter motor for a few seconds to push some oil around the engine. Then I re-connect the coil, re-fit the pump fuse and switch on the ignition until the fuel pump stops running. Then I use full choke and hit the starter button - the engine usually starts and runs on all cylinders within a couple of seconds. Then I move the choke to the lower half of its travel and the engine idles smoothly within a few seconds of starting.
Since my car is still a work-in-progress I usually leave it with the pump fuse pulled and the coil disconnected.
Regards
Some people might not agree with this but, if my engine hasn't been started for a while I pull the fuel pump fuse, disconnect the coil ignition feed and spin the engine on the starter motor for a few seconds to push some oil around the engine. Then I re-connect the coil, re-fit the pump fuse and switch on the ignition until the fuel pump stops running. Then I use full choke and hit the starter button - the engine usually starts and runs on all cylinders within a couple of seconds. Then I move the choke to the lower half of its travel and the engine idles smoothly within a few seconds of starting.
Since my car is still a work-in-progress I usually leave it with the pump fuse pulled and the coil disconnected.
Regards
Stuart
If you can't make it work, make it complicated!
'62 FHC - Nearing completion
'69 Daimler 420 Sovereign
'78 Land Rover Series 3 109
If you can't make it work, make it complicated!
'62 FHC - Nearing completion
'69 Daimler 420 Sovereign
'78 Land Rover Series 3 109
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#14 Re: Leaking coil
Thanks everyone. The only time I touch the throttle during starting is when I feel that the engine is definitely
going to start. The carbs were professionally overhauled by Southern Carburettors who really know what they are doing, and I'm definitely getting full choke on all 3. I'll try some of your starting suggestions and see if that helps.
going to start. The carbs were professionally overhauled by Southern Carburettors who really know what they are doing, and I'm definitely getting full choke on all 3. I'll try some of your starting suggestions and see if that helps.
Andy
1970 S2 FHC
1965 SB Corvette Ragtop
1970 S2 FHC
1965 SB Corvette Ragtop
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#15 Re: Leaking coil
I would suggest you never touch the throttle during starting unless you are trying to clear a flooded engine.
If the engine will not start easily by just using the choke lever, then you do not have the carbs and choke mechanism set up correctly. I suggest you fastidiously read and follow the factory workshop manual on this subject.
If the engine will not start easily by just using the choke lever, then you do not have the carbs and choke mechanism set up correctly. I suggest you fastidiously read and follow the factory workshop manual on this subject.
Steve
'65 S1 4.2 FHC (early)
'65 S1 4.2 FHC (early)
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