The 'E' Type Forum

A couple more questions please as I get back down to looking at my E Type

I have ordered all of the shims etc to set the clearances correctly (well hopefully) but I did wonder if there is a clear guide of the process of doing the valve clearances including such things as re-setting the timing chain tension and how tight the tensioner nut needs to be? I have checked the knowledge base here and the S2 Engine chapter is only a few pages long and my copy of the manual seems to be the same and Haynes is just as bad. I'd really like a step by step guide so I don't miss anything although I have seen a number of Videos and have done shims on bikes many times in the past!

I have also decided I want to go down the RHD conversion route - there area number of companies offering conversion kits but has anyone a recommendation as to which is best / most complete / least hassle or are they all much the same?

Hi Chris...I dont know of any step by step guide....re the service manual....the first large section covers the 3.8 and all other models. ....however anything specific to another model is added in each of the seperate sections .....so just follow the 3.8 main section. ....Steve.....if your stuck on anything then just ask......have a look here at a post i put up quite a few years ago it may help.....Steve viewtopic.php?f=3&t=2887&p=19155&hilit= ... ust#p19155 ps if you need to talk this through then pm me and ill send you my number......

Been speaking with a local E Type specialist just outside Sheffield who has given me a bit of advice in the past and he has mentioned I need to check on the availability of a throttle linkage for the RHD as I have the twin Stromberg carbs. Anyone got any experience of converting a car with these carbs to RHD?

Hi Chris....i havent done a conversion...but in the knowledge base section there is a very detailed step by step guide to lhd/rhd conversion bt Mike Cassidy......Steve

Cheers Steve, have read all of that article and doesn't sound too bad however the carbs do appear to be an issue. I have been watching eBay and found the following

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/204136929678

I understand however that the manifold for the E-Type is specific to it and the Mk X version won't fit as it is too high. Any ideas whether or not this is the correct manifold / carbs for an E-Type as no point me buying it otherwise and its quite a lot of cash!

Definitely not correct for an etype.
Manifold is wrong
Carbs are wrong and will need serious modifications and expensive parts.

I would stay well clear.
The seller carefully doesn’t mention “ e type”, just says Jaguar..

The seller plainly has not the faintest idea what he is selling. Amongst other things, he mentions an AED which was never fitted to a 3 carburetter setup, only to an XJ6 - unless of course he meant the starting carburetter ( Hisser ) which was only fitted to mark 10s or some XK150S cars. Steer well clear

There is plenty of information on setting XK engine valve clearances if you just “Google” the subject.

For example :-

https://www.jag-lovers.org/saloons/Jagu ... valve.html

Regards,
Dave

Best piece of advice I can give on valve clearances (as a distinctly amateur mechanic) is to adapt the old adage 'measure twice, cut once'.

One thing I would say regarding measuring, be aware that sometimes the shim dimension currently in place is reduced as the valve stem wears a circular depression into the face in contact with the valve.
If you just measure the shim thickness using a caliper across the two faces, rather than a micrometer capable of getting into the circular depression to measure the exact dimension, you could be getting a higher reading than actual, which will affect the dimension required for the replacement shim.
The good news is those used shims with the circular depression can be reused in a later requirement by simply using them upside down so the “fresh” face is then in contact with the valve stem.
I am doing a couple of XK engine valve clearances next week - one on a lovely very dark green Series 2 E type Roadster which will be on display at the Classic Car Show at the NEC the following weekend.
Regards,
Dave

There is a complete set of guides to RHD conversion in the Forum KB, written By Mike Cassidy, Runs to six parts:
viewtopic.php?f=16&t=700

Hutsons sell a complete RHD conversion kit with all refurbished parts

Well certainly not as difficult as I made out - valve clearances adjusted now, I have left them slightly slack as I prefer them a bit on the loose side so inlets were 5-6 thou and exhausts 7-8 thou. Engine is much quieter now but I also adjusted the timing chain so that probably helped. I may be imagining it but the idle seems a bit better as well but I haven't run up to temp yet as it's still in the garage.

I have decided to go down the RHD route so will be ordering a kit either from SNGB or Hutson's, not sure which yet. SNGB are cheaper (mainly because the dash panels are not covered for me) but are out of stock. Hutson's appear pretty comprehensive and they have suggested their throttle linkage will work with my twin Stromburg carb setup as so far I haven't found a tripe SU setup at a reasonable cost. Easy enough to get a triple weber setup though but although that looks great it isn't what should be fitted...

If you have the long air filter on the strombergs it won't fit when converting to rhd due to the brake and clutch actuators. I have fitted the earlier drum filter the same as the SU fitment this fits and can be used when eventually fitting the SU's, if I can ever afford them.
I also used the Hudson parts for the conversion and the rhd throttle linkage works with the stromberg set up.
While your at it, do the secondary throttle mod to the manifold it really makes a difference.

The RHD conversion kit has arrived and I have started in earnest. Its quite daunting to have the entire dash out knowing that I have to fit a new wiring loom at the same time as trying to sort out all of the wiring 'mods' done by previous owners but at least I'm hoping that once done the key will be used to actually start and stop the car rather than having a separate coil switch!

Covering the dash panels isn't what I would call easy but the main panel looks OK so far - just one 'sows ear' to sort and a couple more holes to cut out and I can replace the clocks. A couple of 'issues' have become apparent which I need to work out before I can go much further - I can't see how to get the choke lever out of the old 'glovebox' frame - it just don't seem to fit. Second I'm not sure what to do with the choke - no way the cables will reach to the passenger side but perhaps the heater and choke swap sides - need to research that a little more. Hopefully start on the column and rack at the weekend...

cmdrew wrote: ↑

Thu Nov 17, 2022 4:22 pm

I can't see how to get the choke lever out of the old 'glovebox' frame - it just don't seem to fit. Second I'm not sure what to do with the choke - no way the cables will reach to the passenger side but perhaps the heater and choke swap sides

No need to research....choke control goes to left of tacho with red warning light above it...heater levers to left where your choke was

Both the choke and heater controls stay where they are regardless of where the steering wheel is, don't they? ie the choke is on the right in both LHD and RHD.

Are you following Mike Cassidy's LHD to RHD conversion guides as I suggested?

Ok - making some progress and have the pedal box modified and installed and the new accelerator pedal in also. Not plumbed the brakes or clutch in yet - clutch looks easy enough but the brakes are confusing but I will get to the vacuum pipes next...

I am staying for now with the twin Stromberg carburettors at the moment so am connecting up the new linkage from SNGB to work with my current setup. No instructions however so I am just trying to work out what goes where and what works.





This seems to work other than then the rod from the pedal to the first 'cam' is too long meaning the pedal is too low. The rod is at its shortest so I would need to cut it to get the pedal at the correct height just a little reluctant to do this as I was told the linkage should just work with my setup so would welcome any comments if I have totally screwed this up! The first cam also needs to be spaced away from the firewall to match the second, central cam but that shouldn't be an issue - I do however only have 1 tapped hole to mount it to - the second hole does line up with the cam plate but has what looks like a rivet in it?

I have read the various articles on the RHD conversion but the main one is for a S1 and he doesn't really go into this. I would welcome any close-up pictures of how throttle linkages are on RHD cars and also any photos / info on how to connect the brake booster to the brake master cylinder. I have read I need to install 2 vacuum pipes in the bulkhead (which I have got) but I can only see what existing hole which looks like where the vacuum pipe would be rivited. A do have a lower pipe but this is connected to the large canister on the right hand side below the carbs.

Hi Chris......your linkage looks correct to me..see link for drawing https://www.martinrobey.com/jaguar/e-ty ... rhd-/26356 ..and vacume diagram...cant upload so heres a link https://www.martinrobey.com/jaguar/e-ty ... rhd-/22177 ..Steve