Disassembled!

Francis · Post by **Francis** » Thu Nov 11, 2010 9:37 pm

Hello again,

You take a Crazy Canuck, give him ten days, a wrench and a screw driver, you put a series 2 E-Type in his garage and here is what may happen:

http://picasaweb.google.com/Francis200261/Dismantelled#

Now I need the weekend to clean the place up, store all parts in an ordely fashion and next Monday it should be out to the sanding shop.

Francis

ChrisC · Post by **ChrisC** » Fri Nov 12, 2010 12:56 pm

The tub looks to be in pretty good condition although obviosly the paint strip will show the full picture. Still on first sight it looks promising.

I had my car shot blasted and years on I am STILL hoovering up traces of blast media. I therefore recommend you cover all the holes into internal cavities before sanding it down as inevitably the dust will get everywhere.

You may as well learn from my mistakes :o)

Francis · Post by **Francis** » Fri Nov 12, 2010 10:19 pm

Thanks for the advice. I will then make sure that all holes, specially around the dash area of the car will be blocked off. One thing I couldn't do is remove the little switches that turn the internal lights on and off. You know they are up front between the door and the frame of the car. Do you remember how you got those out? Otherwise, I will leave them on and just tape them off... I would prefer removing them.

Francis

christopher storey · Post by **christopher storey** » Sat Nov 13, 2010 8:39 am

They are a pushfit, the base being an expanding circumferential spring clip . You should be able to lever them out with a broad blade screwdriver

Francis · Post by **Francis** » Mon Nov 15, 2010 9:53 pm

I am to the point where I now will start sending parts out for various jobs. The body, now stripped of everything is going to sand blasting this week. Next week it will be some minor rust repair found under the driver's seat, taking the dings out, blocking the body (leveling it so that all panels meet one another flat) before paint.

My engine mechanic will start disassembling the engine also this week, we will see if the antifreeze that stayed in the block thirty years created some osmosiss with the head (iron to aluminium), that would be very bad...

Gas tank, radiators, also all go out to be checked, cleaned and possibly repaired if needed. All chrome parts also go out.

I will have to figure a way to classify all my bags of bolts and nuts because the guy that will re-plate them will only take them in one big bucket...( and I spent all that time bagging every set of bolts, screws and nuts for every disassembled element of the car)

Check the calm before the storm:

http://picasaweb.google.com/Francis2002 ... isassemble#

--
Francis de Leeuw

Francis · Post by **Francis** » Wed Nov 24, 2010 11:56 pm

Today I finally got around to bringing the car for sandblasting. Well, part sandblasting. I chemicaly cleaned the first layers of paint, then used a rotary wheel to bring the outer body to metal. (found no rust!) and today I brought it to a specialist who will blast the interior, trunk, fire wall from both sides and the undertray of the car. I also brought all metal sheeting from the car (in boxes and the large ones seperatly to also be blasted.

I will pick it up tomorrow.

Here are the pictures:

http://picasaweb.google.com/Francis200261/Sandblasting#

Francis

Francis · Post by **Francis** » Sat Nov 27, 2010 3:22 pm

Take a look at these pictures:

The panels could be beaten back into something better but replacement is more cost efficient.

Check the pictures of the suspenssion parts. some have been cleaned some not yet. I found a miricle product called Chemtool! Did the cleaning you see in less than an hour!

http://picasaweb.google.com/Francis200261/BonnetPanels#

According to the original owner, this damage was done while taking the car off the boat in New York City in 1969. The car bagged the boat (or was probably dropped or something was dropped on it). No damage to the front of the fenders or bonnet panel, but some heavy hammering out on the rear of the bonnet and fenders. The valance that goes from the rear of the bonnet to the windscrean is also damaged and I will replace it.

Funny that they used bondo half an inch thick in spots to fix a car that had not yet been sold. Would it not have been cheaper at the time to do the fix, the way I am now doing it?

Francis

Francis · Post by **Francis** » Sun Dec 05, 2010 9:52 pm

Take a look at what I am doing right now.

http://picasaweb.google.com/Francis200261/Heater#

This marks a turning point in the project. The heater unit is now fully restored, this is, after all the disassemble, the first componant ready for reinstallation. I finished it this morning.

This morning I am also painting primer on under bonnet elements, as well as top mechanism. I kept that one in one piece. This would be a nightmare to take apart and reassemble, specially since it only need a fresh coat of paint.

Francis · Post by **Francis** » Sun Dec 19, 2010 1:47 am

So it's now over. I must report that it's over. Yes, saddly the disassemble phase is over. Althogh I still have a few things to destroy, a few things to tinker with but that is the end of fun part of the restoration.

The cleanig, the restoring of individual items that will be used to further the project are being addressed. It may look like a mess, but it is an orderly mess...Take a look:

http://picasaweb.google.com/Francis200261/Reassemble#

Some parts are ready to be re-assembled, some have just been cleaned, awaiting paint, zinc coating, cadnium coating, powder coating or other new parts to attach them to, but the report here is that I am now populating shelves with parts that have been disassembled, assessed addressed, worked on and placed on the wait for the naked body to come back from the paint shop shelf.

This is progress, it just is so much little things here and there that it looks like nothing is progressing. But no, the 35 to 40 hours a week I spend on this love bug is making a dent in the mass of all that must be done to get to a 100 points show car.

vipergts · Post by **vipergts** » Sun Dec 19, 2010 12:52 pm

There's a lot of hard work going on there Francis.....I can vouch for that.

40 hrs a week will certainly make a dent. I know what it's like, I too have a mountain of bits placed on shelves everywhere and another shelf slowly filling up with nicely reconditioned/new parts. Just waiting for the car to come back. I love the detailing and the refurbishing of old parts....great sense of satisfaction.

Keep up the good work and there must be lots of people looking at your thread with interest but I guess they're just shy.

Francis · Post by **Francis** » Sun Dec 19, 2010 2:39 pm

Thanks ViperGTS.

I have this passion too for old parts. I get great satisfaction in bringing rusty old parts back to life. That also goes some ways down the wallet too!

I feel that a restoration project is not just taking original parts and replacing them with new ones. For instance, a brake master cylinder is not that expensive to replace but the part you purchase did not start life in this car. If the original one can be salvaged using a refurbishing kit of seals, even if you spend a couple hours cleaning it up and rebuilding it, you will end up keeping more of the car together. This has value to me.

On the other hand, if corrosion took hold ot the interior cylinder ot that brake master, you have to consider the safety issue of a part that is to be refurbushed. The prudent choice may be to replace that particular part.

$89 + a bit less originality VS safety... I will have to adress this with my brake master as qwell as with my clutch master. One thing I am doing however is replace the cervo in a core exchage.

Today I will address the cleaning of the front suspension parts. My mechanic will be in on Tuesday to help me disassemble the engine head and some other items like the brake calpers to asses if they are salvagable (cost VS safety here too!). I will probably upgrade the front brakes to a Wilwood 4 piston system. I was told that the front brakes can be moved to the back by keeping the rear housing (in order to be able to attach the hand brake chaplet). and have this way a much better braking system.

I know that it takes points off a concourse sheet, but a 69 OTS is not the same as a 61 to 64 OTS... So It is destined for the road, not the concourse road... I am still doing everything to concourse state but with safety concerns updated.

That plus a 5 speed tranny upgrade!

Francis

vipergts · Post by **vipergts** » Sun Dec 19, 2010 5:17 pm

You must have serious patience doing the concourse route....personally I can't be bothered but just want the car to be as I want it.

I'm with you on the maintaining as must of the original unit as possible but desperately want to upgrade to be more compliant and useable.

How you getting on with your rear suspenders?? That's where I'm at presently. I have upgraded to SII callipers though.

My diff and re-cored (in stainless) Dunlop Master cylinder.

Francis · Post by **Francis** » Mon Dec 20, 2010 1:49 am

lets keep this conversation going!

I have not addressed the diff yet. Perhaps in early January after i come back from skiing in Alberta... (what a pest I can be...) here is the status of the issue at hand:
I just sprung from my desk position to go downstairs to flick a few pictures of the said parts but could not help myself and steal one of my wife on the way down... ( four cosmopolitans and a bottle of Chardonney did help the heuphric feeling!)

http://picasaweb.google.com/Francis2002 ... AKECHAPLET#

I will try to keep the orange color of the diff.

Francis

vipergts · Post by **vipergts** » Mon Dec 20, 2010 10:26 am

Your diff and the h/brake linkage looks to be in very good condition. Most linkages are heavily corroded inc mine.

All the rear suspension bushes/bearings and shims are great fun.

Francis · Post by **Francis** » Mon Dec 20, 2010 1:06 pm

The great advantage in having found an Arizona car is that they come with no corrosion! That is why I chose to purchase this car.

After restoring a Morgan +4 last year, I got my lesson on rust and rot...

My diff looks in good shape but some play exist in it. I still debate disassembling it. It would be great to find a better performing one to upgrade the curb speed of the whole package.

I just purchased an aluminium Coolcat radiator, the engine is completely apart at this time, so upon rebuilt, I will probably add some compression in there, I have purchassed a triple SU carb set to replace the ''anti-polution'' double Stromberg set up. This will add tork to the car. With the new 5 speed Tremec tranny that I just bought, all I would need to thruly make this car a rocketship is a quick response tranny.

Any ideas on the best ratio to acheive this? I am looking for better tork not necessarly more top speed.

Francis

Francis · Post by **Francis** » Mon Dec 20, 2010 1:26 pm

I am trying to have the IRS rebuild as well as the front suspenssion so that by late January I will be able to bring it to the paint shop and attach it to the car, then bring it back here to finish reasembly.

Francis

vipergts · Post by **vipergts** » Mon Dec 20, 2010 3:50 pm

I'm not good on the technical ratio stuff. I went for a different diff ration on the rebuild

Post by **Heuer** » Mon Dec 20, 2010 5:57 pm

Francis

You can go with either a 3.07 or 2.88 diff depending on how fast you want to cruise (a 2.88 with a 5 speed box will give 100mph at 3,000 rpm). You can rebuild the diff with any of these ratios.

vipergts · Post by **vipergts** » Mon Dec 20, 2010 6:10 pm

Yes....I went 3:07.

Francis · Post by **Francis** » Tue Dec 21, 2010 1:24 pm

I have a 3.54 3.07 is what was recommended to me. what is the major diffrence between 3.07 and 2.88?

Is the work involved harder? are the parts more expensive?

Francis

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