The 'E' Type Forum

Hello All,

Going to replace distributor as having problem cutting out when it gets hot. It has a cheap and cheerful electronic conversion at the moment. Question is should I go back to a original distributor and points or fit a 123 Distributor. Your thoughts, experience and advice would be appreciated.

Paul.

Hi Paul,
Have you tried the cheaper option of changing to a Red rotor from the distributor doctor first? Original Black rotors are known to break down when warm and cause problems. Well documented on the forum;
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=20766

Having run points, Pertronix, Mallory Unilite, and now 123+ in my Etypes, I wouldn't have anything else. The 123+ allows for dialing in an advance curve that suits your particular specification.

Thanks for the replies,
Hi Steve, Yes I did however when it arrived it was the wrong one, after a few photographs flying backwards and forwards they advised that it was a xj6 distributor which is not the correct one for my 4.2 engine. My thoughts were to change the whole thing and hopefully be done with the problem.

Paul.

For originality, go for a refurb on your distributor.
For best performance, go for a 123 tune.
For ease, (for non-technocrats like me) go for the standard 123 with pre-set curves and choose curve 2

I’ve got one of the ‘original’ 123 distributors on my S1 - is been on for many, many years and it’s been absolutely fine.
(I’ve also got one on my XK120 and that has been fine).

Richard

Hello Malcolm,
Could I just ask, did you have to fit a ballast as SNG Barrett are stating I would need a ballast? If so do you know where this gets wired into ? Also did you have any issues with the rev counter?
Sorry for all the questions, I will go for the standard 123 as like you Im not into all the technical jargon.

Many Thanks

Paul.

Not sure why SNG are saying that. I have no ballast resistor, and the rev counter was not affected at all. Just plugged straight in. Instructions on the box are quite clear.
Some of the more technically competent on here may give you a more detailed answer!

You dont need the ballast..but is depends on your car chassis number /build/wireing etc as to of if had one originally.. maybee this is why SNGB are saying so...depends what you actually asked them....Steve

malcolm wrote: ↑

Mon Jun 17, 2024 8:36 am

and the rev counter was not affected at all. Just plugged straight in.

Odd (for me) you say that. If Paul's rev counter is an RVI type, it will need converting to RVC if he fits the 123 dizzy. There's companies can do that for you, or you can DIY with a Spiyda (for instance) converter.

I'm willing to stand corrected

T thought this was an issue with some Series 1 ? cars, but mine has it's original bog standard rev counter and wasn't affected at all.

It's not cut and dried that RVI won't work with a 123 or other electronic distributors..its more common if the distributor power is taken directly from the input to the coil rather than a seperate feed from the fuse panel...fit the 123 or other unit and try it...if you get problems investigate and fix...Steve

Just finished fitting the 123 Distributor this afternoon, it went reasonably well, the rev counter is working which is a plus. Car starts fine and revs as it should, taking for a test drive in the morning, This is the first job Ive done on the car and I can understand why people say you need a lift, surprised that the timing arrow was underneath the car! I set the distributor on 2 hope its ok. Going to retire to the garden with a couple of cold beers, happy days!!!

Great..2 should be OK....if you want to disguise the 123 you can spray the orange cap black....Steve

My 123 had a black cap - older version maybe?

Hello, The one I've just put on was a black cap, it was the Billy basic model. Took her out yesterday after a few miles, first thoughts were that's it I've cracked it. However it still has the same problem, think the timing may need tweaking a little, but its very close. I have noticed that although the problem is intermittent when it does happen its is when accelerating slightly harder than when just cruising along. My attention is now drawn to a fuel issue, as once it restarts it is fine for a while. any thoughts?

Have you fitted new ht leads..what coil are you useing (ohms)...check coil connection..I dont rely on crimps I add a bit of solder to all connections....set up your timming..start with the cam/valve timming..then accurately determine TDC....then set your pointer to tdc...then set your distributor..dont assume that your current crank pointer position is correct...Steve

Thanks Steve,

I've just heard back from 123 Ignition, even though SNG Barret's state that you have to fit a ballast, 123 ignition have advised that I remove the ballast as this will be giving the distributor a spike. I haven't fitted new HT leads yet, they may be next. Im getting a new lift next week so will be checking timing as you advised.

Paul.