The 'E' Type Forum

Hi

I have a 1969 FHC Series 2 Jag with a seized caliper, which has caused uneven brake pad wear (highlighted as an advisory on the MOT). A local garage has quoted me £1250 + VAT for replacing the pads and upgrading to more modern calipers.

I’m considering tackling the job myself, as I’d also like to tidy up the entire IRS (Independent Rear Suspension) unit. I’m wondering what other work is recommended or worth doing while the IRS is out. I’ve read mixed opinions on how difficult it is to remove and reinstall the IRS. Besides a trolley or scissor lift platform, what other specialized tools should I have on hand?

I’d consider myself a mid-level garage mechanic in terms of competence, but I’m undecided if this is something I should leave to the professionals or if doing it myself would give me more control over any additional work that might come up. I’m also cautious that once the IRS is out, I might uncover a whole host of other things that need attention.

Would appreciate any advice or experiences you can share!

Does it look like oil is being flung from any of the diff input and output shafts, time to overhaul?
Imo removing and replacing the IRS is not hard with the right tools. Once you've done it and realised this, it's easier to put off today what can be done tomorrow.

Thanks Colin - yes I think the diff does need an overhaul - any recommendations on how to approach that? Send to a specialist to recondition?

Please let me know what tools are required. Thanks

Search on YouTube for fossway classic car workshop, he has some videos of removing and refurbishing the IRS well worth a watch.

Hi Inca..what's your name...please put it with your car model in the signature area.....no special tools required to refurb an IRS.....Many on the forum have done this job themselves..the irs is a big heavy lump so you need to think how you will remove it with whatever facilities you have..Steve

The standard Series 2 brakes are more than up to the job, so there's no real need to upgrade them. Especially so at the rear.

Check for play in the drive shaft UJ's and for float in the hub bearings. Perhaps replace the dampers but keep the original springs if they're not of concern.

Regards

inca wrote: ↑

Sat Oct 05, 2024 9:55 am

A local garage has quoted me £1250 + VAT for replacing the pads and upgrading to more modern calipers.

Neither of which will fix the problem.... You get uneven pad wear because oil is migrating out of the differential seals and travelling down onto the inner faces of the brake discs. The sides of the discs facing the wheels are unaffected and remain oil free.

So you probably want to replace the diff seals and then the brake pads. There is nothing wrong with the calipers. They'll be happy with just new seals and new pistons, if rusted. There was a time when Martin Robey had stainless steel pistons for these listed at just 50p more then the standard pistons. Happy days....

kind regards
Marek

Thank you everyone for all your help and advice. It’s much appreciated. I think there is an opportunity for me to learn a lot here!

Definitely DIY.

Except, perhaps, for checking the shimming of the crownwheel etc where - despite all that’s written, and despite having done it myself - I suspect that experience is a highly valuable asset.

Hence, as you are in the UK, getting the diff itself into the hands of Alan Slawson would be money well spent.

rfs1957 wrote: ↑

Mon Oct 07, 2024 8:05 am

I suspect that experience is a highly valuable asset.
.

I agree.

Send the diff off to a professional. Otherwise everything else is well within the grasp of a keen amateur with decent tools.

If you're going to go to the trouble of stripping the IRS the sensible approach is to do everything. Then you'll never have to touch it again.