Clutch. To recondition or replace?

Ropariva · Post by **Ropariva** » Sat Mar 08, 2014 4:30 pm

I have just dropped the engine out of my 1970 FHC and am looking for any advice regarding the clutch. My car has done 60000 miles and I am told the clutch is not the original one

Any ideas regarding the purple springs?

Prior to stripping the car down I had two issues with the clutch. The clutch didn't take up until the pedal was almost fully out, and it also regularly experienced judder. This made the whole driving experience pretty poor especially in heavy traffic.
One reputable old school Jag mechanic I spoke to suggested having my unit reconditioned. I have also had reccomendations to replace the lot with an AP driveline kit. I'm about to place an order for this but am keen to get any feedback from those who have been there before. Thanks Alan

Mark Gordon · Post by **Mark Gordon** » Sat Mar 08, 2014 6:16 pm

Did you enjoy removing the engine and gearbox? Are you looking forward to doing it again? How much would you save by reconditioning you original clutch? How reliable is the company who is doing the reconditioning? There surely is not that much saved by reconditioning. Replace it with a new one.

Post by **1954Etype** » Sat Mar 08, 2014 7:26 pm

Replace it all. BTW that is the wrong clutch cover for your car - it should be the diaphragm type - easier to depress!

Ropariva · Post by **Ropariva** » Sat Mar 08, 2014 9:01 pm

Thanks Mark and Angus
An easier pedal is certainly something I would appreciate.
The engine removal this time was pretty easy as I'm doing a complete front end overhaul.

I was surprised at the amount of insulation used inside the transmission tunnel, especially the large foam pad on top of the gearbox

There is also liberal use of dum dum or similar around the firewall cover plates and grommets. Have you found this too on your series 2 restorations Angus?

I shall order the new clutch. Cheers. Al

Post by **1954Etype** » Sat Mar 08, 2014 9:16 pm

Loads of dum dum was used during the build of these cars they weredoing all they could to reduce noise and heat ingress

Ropariva · Post by **Ropariva** » Sat Mar 08, 2014 9:40 pm

Yep, I had no complaints about excess heat in this car even after three twelve hour days of touring in 30 degree temps.
So many of the rebuilds I have seen don't seem to have replaced any of the sealer. They are all clean and back to bare metal. Do you have a product recommendation to use as a replacement for dum dum?

Post by **1954Etype** » Sat Mar 08, 2014 9:57 pm

Ropariva wrote:Yep, I had no complaints about excess heat in this car even after three twelve hour days of touring in 30 degree temps.
So many of the rebuilds I have seen don't seem to have replaced any of the sealer. They are all clean and back to bare metal. Do you have a product recommendation to use as a replacement for dum dum?

Not yet unfortunately. I think you can buy strips of a product that is meant to be a replacement but I've never used it google it for more info.

Ropariva · Post by **Ropariva** » Sat Mar 08, 2014 10:42 pm

And the clutch....seems it's a 10 inch(actual diameter is 9 7/8")
Thought this car was supposed to have a 9.5 inch. Makes me wonder if it was upgraded at some point early in its life??
The purple springs indicate it is a heavy duty pressure plate

christopher storey · Post by **christopher storey** » Sun Mar 09, 2014 8:48 am

Butyl mastic is what is now used for the joint of the cover - it does not harden over the years. BTW, as Angus has said, you have a 3.8 type clutch whereas you should have the diaphragm type . This calls into question a number of things, including whether you have the wrong flywheel ( which should also have drillings for the 9.5 inch clutch and should be of the 133 tooth type ) and also whether you have the correct pre-engaged rather than inertial bendix type starter motor. If either of these are incorrect you have fun and games ahead, as they MUST all match - and the bell housing also has to be 4.2 type rather than a 3.8 type machined at the rear to fit the all-synchro box

Ropariva · Post by **Ropariva** » Mon Mar 10, 2014 9:29 pm

Hmmmmm
Counted the teeth and there are 133. Also found the engine number stamped on the flywheel

Can you tell from this pic whether it has the correct drillings?

Starter is the correct pre engaged type, so....hopefully all is in order. I will contact the owner of my cars twin sister (exact same colour and very next body number) and see if they had any anomalies in the engine area. Perhaps they did something a bit different for us Aussies apart from the low compression pistons :-)

Post by **1954Etype** » Mon Mar 10, 2014 9:37 pm

Flywheel looks drilled for 9.5" clutch. Dont forget to remove and refit the locating dowels.

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