S2 sugar scoop fitting

[chrisvine]

I haven't got any reference photos from the dismantling stage so would be grateful for some guidance on the riveting of the sugar scoops and the rubber finisher.

Should the rubber strip fit on in a single piece and does it fit under or flush with the beading protrusion on the crown finisher?

Do you need to trim it to stop it ruffling up around the tightest bend at the tip of the scoop?

Finally is the rubber strip (with spacing washer) riveted as well, rather than punch holes in for the rivet heads to pass through?

Thanks,
Chris

[Daveyk]

Hi I had fun fitting these in my car
I waxoiled all joints prior to riveting in place
The rubber strips are fitted in one piece and have to be 'teased' into shape around the front tip where the two chrome strips join and the ends are trimmed to fit under the chrome headlight 'eyebrow'
My new rubber strips had holes punched in them that lined up with the special pop rivets that the chrome trims clip onto these held the rubbers before the trim was fitted.
The rivets have a spacing washer under them but I had trouble getting the trims to clip over some of the rivets so I drilled them out again and put 2 washers under the rivet and they clipped on ok.
My car had never been apart before and the old rubbers that came off appear to be moulded to the right shape whereas the new parts are just on a straight roll so there was some rippling at the front tip but once the trims are all on they look fine if you want I could post some pics
Good luck

[chrisvine]

Thanks David - that's very useful and Simon (288gto) for your PM. Both confirm the same routing under eyebrows, punched holes and incidentally the possibility of needing two spacing washers.

The replacement strips supplied by SNG are straight without the holes pre-punched so I'll just have to punch the holes in.

The parts manual lists both a RH (BD35729) and LH (BD35730) strip which agrees with your point that the original strips were shaped to the contour of the scoop.

I've coated the area behind the scoop with copious amounts of waxoyl but will now also do the backs & joints of the scoop and bonnet bead gap.

Thanks,
Chris