In situ bearing shell replacement

[Steve Marshall]

My early S2 has about 55000 miles on it, and no signs of having been molested in the past at all.

The cold oil pressure was good, and compression on all cylinders was also fine. But it was only run for a couple of minutes before stripping down, so the mechanical oil pressure gauge reading was encouraging but didn't say that much about what the hot reading might be. It had been laid up somewhere dry for 15 years - reportedly.

Similarly, no obvious signs of leaking at either end of the crankshaft.

With an engine out, I would expect to replace the crankshaft and big-end shells as a matter of course, but definitely leave well enough alone with the seals on an E-Type. Check the ends for ovality, the full OCD bit. The mechanic wants to remove the sump for cleaning but is not that keen on disturbing the bearings at all. What Does the Team Think?

My first year as an E-Type owner has almost flown by! must be great actually driving one.

[christopher storey]

I am a little confused about whether the engine is still in the car or not . That affects the ease of the work which can be done, but not the viability of doing it unless you need to change the rear main seal in which case the engine has to come out. However, I agree with you - in a car which is an unknown quantity and has not run for more than a minute or two -there is a good case for first of all pulling the big end caps and having a look at the shells, and if they show any signs of deterioration, replacing both the big end and the mains shells.

However, there is a caveat to all this . XK engines have a hollow crank with sludge traps in the journals, sealed by the staked plugs in the journal webs. What is in those cavities is also an unknown quantity, and if they are full of crud there is a not insignificant risk that once the engine is run for prolonged periods, some of that will get washed through your nice new bearings . They are next to impossible to remove unless the crankshaft is on the bench . On balance, if the car is ready to be run, I think I would just do a general clean up of the sump and then run it for say 1000 miles with a strongly detergent oil ( there are additives you can buy for this ) and then examine the general state of bearings etc

[Moeregaard]

Steve, if the engine is out of the car, you might as well have a look at everything. Since it's been laid up for 15 years, the gaskets and seals are probably well past their prime. Whenever I encounter low oil pressure, the first thing I replace is the oil-pressure relief-valve spring and piston, before tearing into things. It's low-hanging fruit.

I'll second Christopher's thoughts on the bearing shells. Having a look is probably a good idea, and if any of them have run you'll want to have the the crank checked for damage and turned if necessary. If the engine is still in the car, you can run a heavy piece of wire (welding rod works well) through the sump's drain, feel around inside, and if it comes back out with grey babbit material you've got lower-end troubles.

[Steve Marshall]

Well I can clarify that the engine is out of the car, along with utterly everything else.

Thanks for the advice. Key question - can the sump be removed with the engine in the car?

If so I am thinking that the way forward would be to check one big end journal for serious ovality or scoring, and if things are reasonably OK then run it for some time (say 1000 mi) with detergent oil to get anything which will go into suspension into suspension. Same for one main bearing journal, if only to make sure that it hadn't been reground undersize.

Then an oil & filter change and new shells. At this point I will checkout the forum to discover what no doubt is the clear consensus on monograde vs multigrade oils, detergent oils etc.

Obviously if the inspection shows up big problems.....

[christopher storey]

Yes, getting the sump off is quite doable with the engine in the car. The only real difficulty sometimes is getting it past the reaction plate ( the large heavy plate which goes across the car under the back end of the engine and carries the torsion bars ) but that is not an insuperable difficulty . However, since the engine already is out, you are much better placed to do the whole job here and now, including taking the crank plugs out - even if you have to remove the flywheel and crankshaft , it is not the worst or lengthiest job in the world with the engine upside down and on a stand

[1954Etype]

I recently did this on a 55k mile engine. Dropped a main and big end shell and they were unmarked.

The engine had not been rebuilt and I beleive, well maintained. The compression ratios were checked and found to be fine so we changed the front oil seal and left it alone. Car runs really well. My advice is not to be too intrusive.

[PeterCrespin]

Your mechanic, who presumably repairs engines for a living and has seen and heard the engine running, is suggesting you save money by not paying him to do work likely to prove unnecessary. What's not to like?

You mention OCD....

[Steve Marshall]

I am persuaded that leaving well enough alone is the way forward, subject to sample journals not being bad on inspection, and hot oil pressure being good. If the hot oil pressure proves to be poor then the oil pressure relief valve will be the first point of call.

Of course the fact that retrofitting is possible without removing the engine again is a big factor in assessing the cost/benefit/risk balance.

I am comforted that there is no sign of neglect at all so far, in fact not an ounce of filler AFAIK. So it may well have always had regular oil and filter changes.

Steve