Page 1 of 1
#1 S2 Underbonnet paint finish
Posted: Sun Sep 07, 2014 6:28 pm
by Candellara
Chaps
In the midst of stripping the bonnet underside as cumulative years have seen coat after coat after coat of body schultz (bonnet weighs a ton!) - and it all needs stripping back and correctly refinishing
What's the factory finish for the wheel arch area's, air tubes, oval washers / bolts etc
#2
Posted: Mon Sep 08, 2014 8:46 am
by malcolm
Wheel arches and airtubes should be matching to body colour
#3
Posted: Mon Sep 08, 2014 10:06 am
by Heuer
Ditto oval washers and bolts.
#4
Posted: Mon Sep 08, 2014 11:24 am
by Simon P
Agreed. All body-coloured including the oval washers and bolts. If you think about it part of the problem with E-type bonnets was that they used to build them up as a complete assembly before painiting - hence the corrosion problems that quickly bubbled up where the primed but unpainted faces of the centre section and wings met (helped along the way by a bit of dissimliar metal contact from the prongs of the trim strip
)
The 'snail' should be crackle black and as it went on afterwards its bolts and washers were left unpainted.
#5
Posted: Mon Sep 08, 2014 11:29 am
by Heuer
The fresh air intake ("snail") should have black oval washers and bolts - black cadmium plate originally but black paint is OK.
#6
Posted: Mon Sep 08, 2014 12:03 pm
by Simon P
Heuer wrote:The fresh air intake ("snail") should have black oval washers and bolts - black cadmium plate originally but black paint is OK.
Think that may be more of an S1 thing. I'm away from my reference pictures at the moment, but the JCNA guide says "secured to bonnet with cadmium plated oval washers and "GKN" bolts" - although goes on to note two sources reporting bolts and washers painted "crinkle black" on 'Variation 3' cars.
#7
Posted: Tue Sep 09, 2014 10:42 am
by Candellara
Thanks for your input guys.
Although my bonnet looks lovely externally, there has been years of underseal applied underneath and then overpainted :-(
As such, the bonnet is very heavy and i'm stripping all the underside back to see what's hidden
So far, so good but the bonded rails need to be re-fixed with sikaflex as the existing material has deteriorated. I'm replacing the forward mudshields (it's easier to replace rather than strip these panels back - and they are only about ?35 per side. The air-tubes need removing and stripping (copiously covered in bitumen underseal), O/S headlamp back panel is ok with no corrosion - just needs stripping.
N/S headlamp back panel is corroded - so will be replaced, as is the NS area of the lower valence / bonnet support beam so i'm going to replace this as well.
The bonnet internals seem to be nice and straight forward to remove and replace. Any difficulties with the lower valence that i should be aware of? It seems a relatively straightforward bolt on item but who supplies the best replacement? SNG? Robeys?
#8
Posted: Tue Sep 16, 2014 7:09 pm
by Candellara
HELP!! :)
So far, so good...ish. I've got the bonnet laid upside down on some bonnet body-shop stands, so it's a bit easier to work on.
Every single bolt and screw is naturally heavily corroded - so each one is a mission to undo. Plan is to remove the lower valence BUT do the air tubes need to be removed 1st? i.e are there lower valence securing bolts hidden where the air tubes meet the nose - do the these need to be removed before the lower valence can come off?