HI - new user and a few questions

[KenO]

Hi guys, I have a 1968 XKE roadster - cream/ blue interior, series 1.5 (I think) serial # 1E17160 - Have had the car since 1986 - the car is on this website - I'll put up some more photo's when I get a moment.

Latest issue - had a coolant leak from the therostat connection above the dizzy that was leaking on to the cap - R/R new gasket, etc - now no leakage. Replaced the dizzy cap, built a new Spk plug wire set (screw on end caps to the spk plugs and on the other end, attached the little brass washers on the dizzy side) checked the insulator on the point set to ensure no ground on the post of the contacts - checked the coil - see low voltage side ohms of 4.6 ohms and on the high volt side - 8.5K, opened and closed the points and see a spark w/ the ignition switch on. Checked the continuity between the wire on the back of the dizzy to the points - good connection.
no spark at the plugs - car turns over but doesn't catch (however the last time I turned it over - earlier today - it turns over at high speed then bogs / slows down ) anyone have any thoughts on this?

[mgcjag]

Hi Ken....possible bad earth connection to the engine block...Steve

[KenO]

Checked further - I'm seeing ground at the points "post" w/ the points open as well - looks like there is no insulator on the bottom insulating the spring from the rest -will verify and signal all.

[KenO]

there IS an insulator underneath the spring arm- so my previous post is not correct. Currently the connection is layered as follows (from bottom to top nut) - bottom insulator, spring arm, then the upsidedown top hat with the two wires touching each other underneath - my thought is this is the proper way - anyone have other thougths here?

[christopher storey]

Have you checked the rotor arm to see that there is NO continuity between its centre and earth ? This has become a very common failure in recent years

Also, condenser failure / disconnection can result in no spark

[KenO]

Thanks Christopher - I'm still seeing ground @ the points post / nut when they are open - with or without the wires being present - this should not be the case, right? Also, I'll check on the roter arm center to see if there is ground there - if there is, what is the fix?

[christopher storey]

Ken - I would expect the points POST and its nut to be grounded . That is why the points spring arm is insulated from them by the nylon annular sleeve and the bakelite washer . What should not be grounded, but showing 12 volts when the points are open is the spring arm

The only real fix for a conductive rotor arm is a new one, preferably the red ones the Distributor Doctor sells . You could try as a temporary fix putting some plastic film between the base of the rotor and the shaft

EDIT : it occurs to me to ask , are you sure that the 12v lead with the tag on is connected to the insulated spring points arm, and not grounded to the post ? It is a very easy mistake to make, to get it on the wrong side of the nylon sleeve, particularly if you change the points with the distributor on the engine

[KenO]

SO, cleaned the distributor "deck" due ot the coolant contamination, repaced points, condenser and coil (current one was slightly leaking) put engine to TDC on the #1 cyliner - and checked wires - found it was 1 dizzy tower off ccw - so went thru and properly connected wires in proper sequence - engine jumped to life - and ran very smoothly (all last week)

This week - started engine yesterday - see spitting of unused gas / liquid exhaust coming out of tail pipe and engine runs rough - rev it up a few times and it smoothes out. when driving, starting off in 1st gear it bogs down - I push the clutch in and rev the engine as well and it smoothes out - perhaps the float bowls are sticking and "flooding" engine at low idle? Interested in hearing your thoughts.

[PeterCrespin]

There is no unused petrol spitting out of your exhaust, it is water. Hopefully it's condensate and disappears after a good run.

Sounds a bit like it's running on five and waking up when you prod the loud pedal but you are possibly right about float valves or levels. There's no substitute for going through everything methodically.

Pete