Lower timing chain removal?

[ltmark]

Good day.

I have just removed the engine on my 69 coupe as part of a bdy off restoration. I have the pan off and all main and rod bearing caps oloosened. However, after a day and a half to remove the damper in order to get the timing cover off, I can not figure out how to get the lower chain off. It's the only thing holding the crank in.

I have the manual, but for some reason, I'm unable to get the upper or lower sprocket off?? I've removed the chain tensioner and the visible bolts, but am missing something. does anyone have a guide with pics?

I did it no problemo when I was 23, but that was 45 years ago! Everything else has been relatively easy all by myself, but I do not want to force something in the timing area!

mark

[christopher storey]

The sprockets are on woodruff keyways, and can be hard to remove if they have been on for a long time. The ideal tool is a hub puller, but sometimes you may be able to get them off with two suitably shaped levers behind them, preferably of the L shaped type

[paulsco]

Have you removed the first woodruff key; the one that locates the damper cone?
The oil seal distance piece and gear will not come off with this in place.

You also need to remove the four bolts holding on the timing gear to the block, but I am sure you know this.

Paul

[abowie]

The top sprocket is on a shaft that is held into the aluminium carrier with a circlip. This is at the back. To get the sprocket (and chain) out you need to remove the carrier.

[ltmark]

Well.. You've done it again! Thank you. I'm always concerned about "forcing something" and screwing it up. I have the manual but even the diagram doesn't show enough detail to tell if there is something behind the upper sprocket that's holding it on the plate?

I had to go about things the wrong way because of the stubborn damper. I ended up removing the pan, then the oil pump and then I took an old 8 pound hammer my dad had and hitting it from the rear. After I bent my heavy duty gear puller without a budge. I had chipped it after about 3 hours so I just gave it about ten good whacks and it finally came off.

It was old anyway and looked like crap. I have been pleasantly surprised. Crank is like new and all the bearing are flawless..mains and rods. The head came off easily and it too looks real nice. Cam bearings all very nice. The XJ6 it came from had only 18K on it in 75', but as you now know it's been sitting for decades.

It appears that 3 of the pistons are "stuck", but the cyl walls look nice. Once the crank is out, I'm gonna leave it upside down and fill the cylinders with PB and hope it frees them up after a while. I will make a site soon and put some pics up because I know it's always much nicer to look at things rather than try to visualize when someone is asking for help or advise!

Thanks again...Very much

mark

[PeterCrespin]

Remember after you've taken your crank out that 4.2 pistons ONLY come out upwards. You can shuffle them to and fro to get them loose, but the only come out of the top of the block, unlike the smaller engines .

It is normal to see the cross-hatching in the lower half of the bore even after mega mileages, so measure everything in the top half, rather than rely on appearances. Same with journals which can look pristine but be oval or even tapered. Does sound like a nice engine though.

[ltmark]

I have everything out except 2 pistons. I have the block upright and the tops filled with PB to soak for a while. They are both about 3/4" from the top...all the rings on all the pistons are frozen, The pistons actually look good but I will replace them and the pins. The four empty cylinders have no scoring at all. Not even and faint vertical lines or scoring. Once removed, there aren't even any signs of where the pistons were locked in place.

Thanks again