The 'E' Type Forum

Hello

I have decided to renew the front suspension, as several rubbers are absent (ball joint gaiters) or damaged (ie torsion bar)
I successfully replaced the torsion bar but as I have dismantled the lower ball joint, I can't remove the ball joint itself
hile wishbone is lifted with a post with car on the lift, I'm trying to praise with a G-clamp, but so far to no avail
I am doing the right gesture ?

Hi Ronaldo....split the lower wishbone from the ballpoint first then remove the ball joint, move the lower part of your clamp to upder the wishbone where the wood block is, best to put the nut back on the thread...when it separates it goes with a bang and the nut just holds things in place...possibly the clamp won't work and you will need a ball joint separator. . All the best Steve

thanks Steve

will try tonight
I misst he separator tool, though, might borrow one at my local mechanic

Buy one, you'll use it more often than you think!
And you will need space to access the ball, so you'll have to remove that piece of wood on the right of your picture. I'm using SpanSet to keep compression on the torsion bar

Every E type owner should have one.

To improve access to the bottom ball joint, remove the steering arm ball joint and upper wishbone ball joints first.

And use the XJ6 sealed bottom ball joints when you put it back together.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-x-JAGUAR-XJ ... 0101901565

I think Andrew means the XJ40 type sealed ball joints. I do not think these are quite the same as the ones he provided the link to

thanks for advice
I already have bought the replacement (non sealed) Barratt kit , and I'm not even certain I should change the balls themselves, probably only the cups and rubbers (mine is missing anyway) as:
1/ I fear the forged steel might not be of the same quality as original
2/ they do not seem used at all

and I'll have to get that tool !

Measure the originals and compare to the replacements supplied... you don't want to be out and about with mismatched balls.

I personally just fit the later sealed ones, youthful balls are worth having.

Andrew

JagWaugh wrote:... youthful balls are worth having...

at some stage you wish you could renew more than just the balls :D

well after a tiring battle, I could finally remove the lower ball joint
this couldn't be done with my friend's tool, which proved useless (too large, not long enough)
If someone could indicate the "right" tool ref and source for this job, I'd be grateful


I had to stick to my G-clamp plus a persuader on top of the clamp

I didn't change the ball itself, though: guess which one is new and which one is old ?



it took me even more time to get the gaiter correctly fit with the retaining circular clip
but at last it's there



now time for the brakes, the main piston seems beyond repair, I ordered stainless steel one; I wonder what is the coating (chrome ?) of the original ones (if any ?)

does this ball joint extractor tool make the job for our E types ?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/450711B-Heavy ... 4181cb6b86

Hi Ronaldo.....hard to tell, but looks like it should be OK. . Steve

thanks

I'm tackling the upper ball joint now, and without the right tool, so far no success in removing it

all that job is for being able to put back a rubber gaiter really (and therefore correctly grease them) , because there doesn't seem to be any other damge like play or

rolando38 wrote:does this ball joint extractor tool make the job for our E types ?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/450711B-Heavy ... 4181cb6b86

I have a selection of them in different sizes and types. I use different ones for different ball joints depending on access. This one is good for the top:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BALL-JOINT-SP ... 4ad37c6545

They're cheap and useful. I also have a set of the simple "fork" style ones that you can use with a hammer when things get desperate.

In my view you can never have too many tools.

BTW, the way you use these splitters is as follows:

Make sure there is NO tension on the ball joint; use a jack etc.
Position the splitter so that the force it exerts is DIRECTLY along the axis of the ball joint bolt. You may need to tap the fork section of the splitter in around the boot with a hammer to achieve this.
Tighten it up as tight as you can.
THEN, hit the SIDE of the wishbone or steering arm (NOT the ball) sharply with a STEEL hammer. If you can hit both sides of it simultaneously between 2 hammers this is even better. The shock of the blow should pop the joint out.
Keep going until you succeed. Keep the splitter correctly positioned and tight.
If you REALLY get stuck (unusual) heat the joint with propane or oxy/acetylene.

it finally came nicely





with the help of this tool (plus the pursuader)




the "scissors" tool could not be inserted , not enough space