The 'E' Type Forum

Hello, the car has developed a slow clutch, the pedal is very slow to return after depressing for a gear change. Any ideas where I need to start the investigation? The fluids are at the correct level.
Thanks.

Start by disconnecting the slave cylinder pivot from the clutch fork (held in place by a split pin). If the problem persists you know it is either the clutch slave or master cylinder. Try bleeding the system and if the problem remains you could change out the slave as the easy first option.

Is the return Spring still intact?

No spring if it is a hydrostatic slave cylinder.

Not sure what one of those is David but the Series 2 parts book list a return Spring on the slave cylinder and on the pedal .

Edit

This may help

http://etype.chrisvine.com/2015/01/clut ... revisited/

There are three different slave cylinders and it is very confusing because you could use any of them on any S1 or S2 car. The hydrostatic self adjusting version does not require a return spring, the non-hydrostatic adjustable one does need a spring and also a different length actuating rod. Unfortunately people buy a replacement slave not realising the differences and using a spring on a hydrostatic slave can cause to slow return of the pedal. If in doubt by both a new slave, matching actuating rod and spring/bracket if they are missing. There is also a spring on the clutch pedal which may be worth checking - it is basically a bent piece of spring steel wire.

Thank you for the replies.
The clutch was working correctly until i had to spend an hour or so in a stop start traffic jam on the return trip from the classic LeMans. Its time to get the car up on the jack and check properly.

Also need to order the vented brakes upgrade

Maybe the flexible hose collapsing internally preventing the fluid from returning quickly ?
Can cause similar problems with the brakes.

indeed good thinking. I had that with a fuel line some years ago, the rubber had created a flap inside which when you blue through it was fine but when you sucked it acted as a valve and cut the fuel off.

When my clutch pedal didnt return, I found the circular spring that is wrapped around the pedal fulcrum had snapped.

Well, Its turns out to be a new clutch is required. I changed the master cylinder, the slave, and hose.... no difference.

Just about to order an AP three piece kit from Mev spares. £189. SCparts want £339.

I'll change the rear gearbox oil seal while its out.

Can the clutch be replaced without taking the engine out? Can you just drop the gearbox?

No, engine out unfortunately.

Oh bugger.