Ignition switch
#1 Ignition switch
Does anyone have or know where I can locate an ignition switch for S2 which is located into ignition lock with two small bolts? All switches I have located are secured by a small grub screw in the side of the switch. This type does not fit my car.
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Gfhug
- Posts: 3857
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#2 Re: Ignition switch
Hi Bristol, can you post a photo of your ignition switch? My RHD S2 uses the type you describe with the grub screw, it fits into the back of the lock assembly which itself is held to the column by short special bolts (which are pretty much unobtainable).
If you look in the 'for sale/wanted' section you'll see a bit of discussion on the S2/S3 ignition switch and steering lock and further down in the S2 section about missing steering lock which has a photo or two of mine.
Hope this will help.
Geoff
If you look in the 'for sale/wanted' section you'll see a bit of discussion on the S2/S3 ignition switch and steering lock and further down in the S2 section about missing steering lock which has a photo or two of mine.
Hope this will help.
Geoff
S2 FHC Light Blue
S2 OTS LHD - RHD full restoration
S2 OTS LHD - RHD full restoration
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Steve Marshall
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#3 Re: Ignition switch
Bristol
I confess that I don't know what the short special bolts are actually like, but I can give you a contact more a machinist who will make the for you unless they a very special cap screws or something.
Obviously he would need a sample or a technical drawing.
Steve
I confess that I don't know what the short special bolts are actually like, but I can give you a contact more a machinist who will make the for you unless they a very special cap screws or something.
Obviously he would need a sample or a technical drawing.
Steve
Nortonian mechanics Jan '69 S2 Roadster RHD Manual
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#4 Re: Ignition switch
Other than the fact the bolts are designed to shear off if tampered with to prevent someone finding their way around the function of the steering lock, there is nothing special about them. If you can remove it, either by drilling it out or cutting a slot into it, then a simple Allen headed bolt can be used as a substitute.
kind regards
Marek
kind regards
Marek
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#5 Re: Ignition switch
If it's the security shear bolt that you're after rather than just securing the switch, then you might have to Take your chances with SC Parts:
http://www.scparts.co.uk/sc_en/british- ... 18653.html
http://www.scparts.co.uk/sc_en/british- ... 18653.html
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#6 Re: Ignition switch
Or the same 1/4 unf shear bolt from MiniSpares for £1.80 rather than £10. I have found that with a bit of lateral research and the correct name for the fixing you are after, the majority though not all are common to other vehicles of the era.
Simon
Simon
Simon
1969 S2 OTS
1969 S2 OTS
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#7 Re: Ignition switch
Thanks for advice , I have the two 9/32 bolts which secure the switch but need a new switch. I am trying to avoid taking off the ignition lock and all the issues re the 'sheer' bolt which will be difficult to drill out re access etc.
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#8 Re: Ignition switch
I haven't looked at my car to check the position, however, when I've had to remove shear bolts in the past, I have used a small chisel to start them turning then just hand turned them out.
E-type - TBC
1968 Triumph GT6 Mk1
1968 Triumph GT6 Mk1
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Gfhug
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#9 Re: Ignition switch
You should be able to remove the electrical switch from the back of the lock part in situ, then replace it with one from SNGB. So unless you have a none standard switch for an S2 you should be able to just buy that part and fit it.
Have a try at removing the switch part and you'll see what I mean.
Edited to add, I had to do just this with my car, hence my suggestions.
Have a try at removing the switch part and you'll see what I mean.
Edited to add, I had to do just this with my car, hence my suggestions.
S2 FHC Light Blue
S2 OTS LHD - RHD full restoration
S2 OTS LHD - RHD full restoration
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#10 Re: Ignition switch
Bristol
I also recently had to hotwire my car at the roadside because of ignition problems. To summarise what I discovered :-
1. The resistance and spring loading when you turn the key is in the ignition switch, not the lock. I got a replacement from SNG for £25
2. Mine is LHD so the grub screw was actually on the top and not removable in situ. I suspect RHD will be underneath as it appears it's the same column?
3. There were two removable bolts to take out the lock. I believe these should be the ones you over tighten and the tops shear off. Mine were normal ones thankfully and I took them off. The whole assembly then came out. I have another post on this subject with pictures. I agree with gfhug as I fitted the replacement quite quickly. The switch is cheap and easy to get, the lock is £250+ and not easy to get.
Word of warning. When I tried to get the ignition switch to work, I had at least ten attempts to get the whole thing to work. Don't give up it will fit.
John
I also recently had to hotwire my car at the roadside because of ignition problems. To summarise what I discovered :-
1. The resistance and spring loading when you turn the key is in the ignition switch, not the lock. I got a replacement from SNG for £25
2. Mine is LHD so the grub screw was actually on the top and not removable in situ. I suspect RHD will be underneath as it appears it's the same column?
3. There were two removable bolts to take out the lock. I believe these should be the ones you over tighten and the tops shear off. Mine were normal ones thankfully and I took them off. The whole assembly then came out. I have another post on this subject with pictures. I agree with gfhug as I fitted the replacement quite quickly. The switch is cheap and easy to get, the lock is £250+ and not easy to get.
Word of warning. When I tried to get the ignition switch to work, I had at least ten attempts to get the whole thing to work. Don't give up it will fit.
John
1969 S2 OTS
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Steve Marshall
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#11 Re: Ignition switch
The way to go would be a screw extractor, a device with a tapered helical left hand thread. Australians call them 'easy-outs'.
Drill a pilot hole leaving a reasonable amount of meat around it (or the expansion effect of the incoming taper will split the bolt - don't ask me how I know) choose and insert the extractor and turn in CCW. Unless you have an OTS which has been out in the rain for years, should be fairly easy.
A word of warning, if you shear the extractor itself there is no way back, as they are bloody hard and undrillable. Once again, don't ask.
Steve
Drill a pilot hole leaving a reasonable amount of meat around it (or the expansion effect of the incoming taper will split the bolt - don't ask me how I know) choose and insert the extractor and turn in CCW. Unless you have an OTS which has been out in the rain for years, should be fairly easy.
A word of warning, if you shear the extractor itself there is no way back, as they are bloody hard and undrillable. Once again, don't ask.
Steve
Nortonian mechanics Jan '69 S2 Roadster RHD Manual
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