Auto to manual pedal box conversion

[shovelled]

I'm preparing to convert my auto V12 back to a manual.

Can you modify the (auto) brake pedal to manual?
Does anybody know what the difference is between C34989 auto brake pedal and C25291 manual brake pedal?
Changing the rubber and pedal plate will be the easy bit, but is the auto brake pedal going to be biased too far to the gearbox side to allow the clutch peddle to be used?

Anybody already done this mod and are there any other issues with changing it over?

[MarekH]

Yes you can modify a pedal.

It may even be the best way forward, as anything you buy from one of the usual suppliers will be a reproduction. As such, if they drill the hole for the clevis pin in even just slightly the wrong position, then it'll force the pushrod to travel over a wider arc and perhaps score the master cylinder bore. This may not become apparent until you have completed a couple of thousand miles, at which point your clutch action will start to suffer.

The difference between pedals is simply the twist or bend put into them so they sit far enough apart to not foul each other in use and the spread direction is different for left and right hand drive cars.

kind regards
Marek

[shovelled]

Hi Marek
Thanks for the response. I’ll build the pedal box and see how close to optimum they are and then do a bit of tinkering as necessary.

I’ll follow up with a picture when done. Hopefully will end up like this.

[abowie]

Pedals can easily be bent to different shape. Heat it up with an oxy torch and hit with a hammer.

We do this all the time with LHD conversions. The only problem is that the locating pin hole for the pedal plate is then not correctly positioned but we just cut off the pin.

SNGB have the clutch pedals in stock.

[vee12eman]

Hi.
It’s definitely possible and it’s what I did when converting my own car from Auto to 5 speed. I also modified the original brake pedal to re-use it, by cutting it down. The lever had a slight “S” bent into it with heat and hammer. The S allowed the pedal to stay at the same angle as the clutch pedal and I could leave the location pin in Situ, which prevents the possibility of the pedal rotating on the lever. I also cut down the spacers on the shaft rather than buying new. Possibly not a huge saving but it all helps. My conversion was to Getrag 5-speed with a new bell housing rather than a converter plate. Not easy to find, I just got lucky. The whole conversion was under £1100, though that was back in about 2005/6. Still pretty good for the time. Apart from the gearbox/flywheel/bell housing, eBay at £700 for the lot, I needed a prop shaft, clutch master and pedal. The pedal and pedal arm were from RMJ Smith. Clutch Master from SNG, prop shaft from Bailey Morris.

Regards,

Simon

[shovelled]

Hi Simon
Thanks for sharing that experience. Unless I can get hold of the manual brake peddle drawing or actual peddle, I’ll build the pedal box and see how it looks. Sounds about he only way to go about it. Nice point to move them from left to right by adjusting the spacers as that east with even my aging lathe. Cheers

[shovelled]

Pedal = Peddle and east = easy, next time I will review before posting.

[Bob.]

viewtopic.php?f=6&t=15321&p=125101&hili ... ns#p125089

[shovelled]

viewtopic.php?f=6&t=15321&p=125101&hili ... ns#p125089

Bob, excellent. I searched the forum before I put up the first post and this link didn't pop up. Its got great datum data to base mine on. cheers

[Gfhug]

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Geoff