Dear forum colleagues,
soon the shell of my S3 will be ready for the paintshop.
Now I'm thinking about underbody protection.
Do you use clean wax or how do you protect your car?
Or should I leave it just painted?
Best regards Sven
Underbody protection
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baganz.sven@web.de
Topic author - Posts: 150
- Joined: Tue Mar 21, 2017 7:58 pm

#2 Re: Underbody protection
Hello Sven,
Personally I would apply protection, it’s easier to clean off the protection than repair rust!
I have found Dinatrol clear to provide lasting protection. It needs to be applied with compressed air but can be used in sills with suitable applicator. I am sure your paint shop will have no problem.
Regards Kevin
Personally I would apply protection, it’s easier to clean off the protection than repair rust!
I have found Dinatrol clear to provide lasting protection. It needs to be applied with compressed air but can be used in sills with suitable applicator. I am sure your paint shop will have no problem.
Regards Kevin
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#3 Re: Underbody protection
The bottom of the car will originally have had a coating of black underseal over the paint. If you are thinking of injecting anything prior to painting, remember that 2pack paint is oven cured at ~40'c.
kind regards
Marek
kind regards
Marek
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#4 Re: Underbody protection
Dinitrol produced a chart showing where to apply rust proofing to an E-Type shell. It guided me to the various closed and semi closed box sections where, if unchecked, rust can start and eventually burst out. I think there is a copy in the knowledge base.
These preparations (Dinitrol, Waxoyl, Lanoguard, etc) are not fit and forget. They work best when just applied, 'wicking' into cracks and joints, but need regular maintenance sprays to keep them active and to recover areas of wear. I apply a thinned respray of Waxoyl every winter, inner and outer panels and box sections. This is on a car which has never had a full restoration, just a couple of minor tart-ups and resprays.
These preparations (Dinitrol, Waxoyl, Lanoguard, etc) are not fit and forget. They work best when just applied, 'wicking' into cracks and joints, but need regular maintenance sprays to keep them active and to recover areas of wear. I apply a thinned respray of Waxoyl every winter, inner and outer panels and box sections. This is on a car which has never had a full restoration, just a couple of minor tart-ups and resprays.
Chris '67 S1 2+2
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Craig Balzer
- Posts: 89
- Joined: Fri Mar 03, 2017 2:02 am

#5 Re: Underbody protection
You said: "Dinitrol produced a chart showing where to apply rust proofing to an E-Type shell."
I did a cursory check of their website but couldn't find the chart.
Do you have a link?
I did a cursory check of their website but couldn't find the chart.
Do you have a link?
Last edited by Craig Balzer on Fri Nov 15, 2024 7:46 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Craig Balzer
Colorado Springs, CO, USA
1972 Series III OTS, 4-Speed (soon-to-be a Guy Broad 5-Speed), A/C, CWW
Colorado Springs, CO, USA
1972 Series III OTS, 4-Speed (soon-to-be a Guy Broad 5-Speed), A/C, CWW
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Craig Balzer
- Posts: 89
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#7 Re: Underbody protection
Getting back to the original question, it took me a while to find my notes but this is what my body/paint guy used on the under carriage of my Series III OTS. Sorry for the delay . . .
He uses TCP Global (online) Custom Shop Tintable Bed Liner. You need to have the color code for your paint and have your paint distributor mix up some. No binder like in the base coat; just tint. Three oz per quart of bed liner.
https://tcpglobal.com/pages/custom-coat-bed-liner
Here are a few happy snaps of the finished results:

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I masked off the areas that would take the torsion bar reaction brackets and the mounting brackets for the IRS. I wanted a clean smooth surface form those contact points/areas.
He uses TCP Global (online) Custom Shop Tintable Bed Liner. You need to have the color code for your paint and have your paint distributor mix up some. No binder like in the base coat; just tint. Three oz per quart of bed liner.
https://tcpglobal.com/pages/custom-coat-bed-liner
Here are a few happy snaps of the finished results:

/

/

/

/

/

I masked off the areas that would take the torsion bar reaction brackets and the mounting brackets for the IRS. I wanted a clean smooth surface form those contact points/areas.
Craig Balzer
Colorado Springs, CO, USA
1972 Series III OTS, 4-Speed (soon-to-be a Guy Broad 5-Speed), A/C, CWW
Colorado Springs, CO, USA
1972 Series III OTS, 4-Speed (soon-to-be a Guy Broad 5-Speed), A/C, CWW
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