I am about to remake my door cards as part 1 of a rolling resto. of the interior trim. The original hardboard used in the cards is warped and needs to be replaced. Is it best to stick with hardboard or is another material more suitable e.g. plywood, MDF?
Pete
Door Cards
#2
Hi Pete,
I used MDF for the E-type panels throughout. Generally, it is fine, less flexible than hardboard but stronger overall. I have used hardboard on other cars and there isn't much to choose between them. Do make sure you use a sheet of polythene between the board and door frame to protect from damp in the door (it gets in even on dry days due to condensation) and you can add extra protection with a coat of outdoor quality paint on the rear face of the board.
If you need to put curves in, then you can steam the board with a steam cleaner, bend it then dry it in the position you need but although there is a slight curve in the door panel (you wouldn't think it to look at), there should be no need to do this. I would probably choose 3mm MDF in future again. Plywood is probably too stiff given the curves, even MDF was popping the door panel out due to the curve until I installed new trim clips.
All the trim can be re-used if not damaged (I replaced the vinyl/Ambla), but note all the little washers behind the clips and studs to which the chrome mounts as they need to stand proud to allow the trim to securely clip over them.
Regards,
Simon
I used MDF for the E-type panels throughout. Generally, it is fine, less flexible than hardboard but stronger overall. I have used hardboard on other cars and there isn't much to choose between them. Do make sure you use a sheet of polythene between the board and door frame to protect from damp in the door (it gets in even on dry days due to condensation) and you can add extra protection with a coat of outdoor quality paint on the rear face of the board.
If you need to put curves in, then you can steam the board with a steam cleaner, bend it then dry it in the position you need but although there is a slight curve in the door panel (you wouldn't think it to look at), there should be no need to do this. I would probably choose 3mm MDF in future again. Plywood is probably too stiff given the curves, even MDF was popping the door panel out due to the curve until I installed new trim clips.
All the trim can be re-used if not damaged (I replaced the vinyl/Ambla), but note all the little washers behind the clips and studs to which the chrome mounts as they need to stand proud to allow the trim to securely clip over them.
Regards,
Simon
Regards,
Simon
Series III FHC
Simon
Series III FHC
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#3
Thanks for the gen Simon. Had I not asked the question I would have used plywood - the cards are so badly misshapen I couldn't tell they are not flat.
There is a sheet of polythene inside my doors, stuck to the outside of the inner door metal. Did you use a sheet of poly between the board and door frame in addition to a sheet inside the door or instead of?
I managed to rescue all the small washers etc. except the spring clips that attach the window felt rubbing strip, they all snapped as I removed them.
What material did you use for padding between the board and the vinyl? I was expecting to find some sort of foam but mine has a white very open structure wadding stapled to the board. I thought of trying a sheet of 3mm closed cell foam which has much more 'give' in it.
Pete
There is a sheet of polythene inside my doors, stuck to the outside of the inner door metal. Did you use a sheet of poly between the board and door frame in addition to a sheet inside the door or instead of?
I managed to rescue all the small washers etc. except the spring clips that attach the window felt rubbing strip, they all snapped as I removed them.
What material did you use for padding between the board and the vinyl? I was expecting to find some sort of foam but mine has a white very open structure wadding stapled to the board. I thought of trying a sheet of 3mm closed cell foam which has much more 'give' in it.
Pete
Pete
'71 S3 2+2
'71 S3 2+2
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#4
Although mine is an S1 I suspect the door card basics are similar. I used 3mm marine ply but if I was doing it again I would try MDF as Simon suggests. Although I was able to bend the ply using steam, it was almost impossible to prevent some cracking of the outer layer of ply along the bend line and I suspect the MDF would be easier to work with.
I used a thin layer of open-cell foam between vinyl and ply which worked well. I suspect it was 3mm. I used a much more resistant 3mm closed-cell foam on the door top rolls which worked very well.
I also used a couple of coats of marine varnish to waterproof the plywood and made sure there was a plastic liner between card and door. So far, so good.
I used a thin layer of open-cell foam between vinyl and ply which worked well. I suspect it was 3mm. I used a much more resistant 3mm closed-cell foam on the door top rolls which worked very well.
I also used a couple of coats of marine varnish to waterproof the plywood and made sure there was a plastic liner between card and door. So far, so good.
John '62 S1 OTS (now sold)
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#5
Just remember that mdf dust is not particularly healthy and as been well associated with carcinogen effects.
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#6
Hi Pete,
I used wadding very similar to the stuff you found on removing the trim. This was mostly just because I happened to have some handy in my stash of trim materials. I like the finished effect - just very slightly padded, not too much. Open cell foam should be fine too, both are susceptible to squashing down over time, again, I have used foam in the past with no problem.
When cutting the vinyl to go around curves or corners, remember not to trim too close to the board. You need to make 'vee' cuts in the vinyl, fold it around and staple, but if the vee cuts are too big, then they can show at the front face or on the edge of the board. try to have the vees ending on the rear face of the trim, slightly stretching the material, if that makes sense. Also don't apply too much tension or there will be creases on the front face.
I only used a sheet of polythene between door card and trim, cutting a small hole for the window winder and inner door handle. I used a thick polythene and was able to stretch it just a little to allow the depression required for the door handle recess. Once I was confident all the adjustments inside the door were complete, I taped it on to the door frame itself to seal it. When you remove the door trim it is the first thing you see. I also applied plenty of wax inside the cavity, ensuring the drain holes were still open and that the various mechanisms were well greased and/or oiled as appropriate. My car had no polythene inside the door, though I have seen this on other cars. Some even have a piece on the lower edge of the wind up window, which drops as the window rises, and deflects the water from the mechanisms, but I didn't bother as I felt the protection I had installed was adequate. As ever, it is personal choice - I don't claim to be the expert.
Hope this helps,
Regards,
Simon
I used wadding very similar to the stuff you found on removing the trim. This was mostly just because I happened to have some handy in my stash of trim materials. I like the finished effect - just very slightly padded, not too much. Open cell foam should be fine too, both are susceptible to squashing down over time, again, I have used foam in the past with no problem.
When cutting the vinyl to go around curves or corners, remember not to trim too close to the board. You need to make 'vee' cuts in the vinyl, fold it around and staple, but if the vee cuts are too big, then they can show at the front face or on the edge of the board. try to have the vees ending on the rear face of the trim, slightly stretching the material, if that makes sense. Also don't apply too much tension or there will be creases on the front face.
I only used a sheet of polythene between door card and trim, cutting a small hole for the window winder and inner door handle. I used a thick polythene and was able to stretch it just a little to allow the depression required for the door handle recess. Once I was confident all the adjustments inside the door were complete, I taped it on to the door frame itself to seal it. When you remove the door trim it is the first thing you see. I also applied plenty of wax inside the cavity, ensuring the drain holes were still open and that the various mechanisms were well greased and/or oiled as appropriate. My car had no polythene inside the door, though I have seen this on other cars. Some even have a piece on the lower edge of the wind up window, which drops as the window rises, and deflects the water from the mechanisms, but I didn't bother as I felt the protection I had installed was adequate. As ever, it is personal choice - I don't claim to be the expert.
Hope this helps,
Regards,
Simon
Regards,
Simon
Series III FHC
Simon
Series III FHC
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