Hi
Me again.....Series 3 OTS. .I have a coolant loss, green stuff on the drive after a longish drive yesterday, but in front of the car. On closer looking coolant was spraying out of what looked like a pin hole in the core, holding my hand in front of the car it got a soaking.
I am guessing i need to get the rad out to inspect properly but some questions as I am new to the car but not new to working on classics, reasonably handy with spanners.
Can the rad come out without removing the bonnet? Can it be repaired, a new core? If so any ideas who and where, don't mind shipping. If it needs a new rad are there options other than ring SNG, thinking more of upgrades than cost.
Any help much appreciated.
Damaged radiator
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Dave Maddock
Topic author - Posts: 19
- Joined: Sat Nov 14, 2015 10:44 pm
#2
Hi Dave,
The rad should come out with the bonnet installed but make your life easier by placing the front wheels on blocks of wood - about 3 inches is good, then open the bonnet and remove the gas strut. Make sure the handbrake is on and working plus chock the wheels. The bonnet will now open to about 90 degrees. You should not open it too far and you should restrain it to prevent it opening further and possibly getting damaged or closing and damaging you. I simply made a dummy strut from a flat metal bar and substitute that. I can measure the length if you want. It can be done single handed but much better/safer with two.
Radiators can be re-cored or for an upgrade, replaced with aluminium units. I got mine in England from Northampton Autorads. Alternatively I believe you may be able to get a thicker core installed. If the car is auto there is the addition complication of the gearbox oil cooler built in to the unit.
Other upgrades are better cooling fans (start by looking at the V12S site in New Hampshire, USA) and replacement of the otter switch with a modern unit, also gives the advantage of being able to choose your temperature by careful switch selection. Mike at Coolcat can help you with that. Also check the operation and condition of the relay. If you fit modern fans which may draw more current, then consider using two modern relays rather than the old Lucas type.
Whatever you do, make sure you use the right coolant to suit alloy engines and in sufficient concentration.
The best time to do the upgrades is ideally now, whilst the radiator is (coming) out, if only because of the quantity of fluid to drain.
Regards,
Simon
The rad should come out with the bonnet installed but make your life easier by placing the front wheels on blocks of wood - about 3 inches is good, then open the bonnet and remove the gas strut. Make sure the handbrake is on and working plus chock the wheels. The bonnet will now open to about 90 degrees. You should not open it too far and you should restrain it to prevent it opening further and possibly getting damaged or closing and damaging you. I simply made a dummy strut from a flat metal bar and substitute that. I can measure the length if you want. It can be done single handed but much better/safer with two.
Radiators can be re-cored or for an upgrade, replaced with aluminium units. I got mine in England from Northampton Autorads. Alternatively I believe you may be able to get a thicker core installed. If the car is auto there is the addition complication of the gearbox oil cooler built in to the unit.
Other upgrades are better cooling fans (start by looking at the V12S site in New Hampshire, USA) and replacement of the otter switch with a modern unit, also gives the advantage of being able to choose your temperature by careful switch selection. Mike at Coolcat can help you with that. Also check the operation and condition of the relay. If you fit modern fans which may draw more current, then consider using two modern relays rather than the old Lucas type.
Whatever you do, make sure you use the right coolant to suit alloy engines and in sufficient concentration.
The best time to do the upgrades is ideally now, whilst the radiator is (coming) out, if only because of the quantity of fluid to drain.
Regards,
Simon
Regards,
Simon
Series III FHC
Simon
Series III FHC
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#3
You can make a bar to position the bonnet to make working on the car easier. This picture is from a S1 car but the concept should work. Set the bonnet so it is maybe 5 to 10 degrees before vertical to put as little stress as possible on all the components.
Andrew.
881824, 1E21538. 889457. 1961 4.3l Mk2. 1975 XJS. 1962 MGB. 1979 MGB.
http://www.projectetype.com/index.php/the-blog.html
Adelaide, Australia
881824, 1E21538. 889457. 1961 4.3l Mk2. 1975 XJS. 1962 MGB. 1979 MGB.
http://www.projectetype.com/index.php/the-blog.html
Adelaide, Australia
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Dave Maddock
Topic author - Posts: 19
- Joined: Sat Nov 14, 2015 10:44 pm
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Dave Maddock
Topic author - Posts: 19
- Joined: Sat Nov 14, 2015 10:44 pm
#5
Simon and Andrew,
Just had a quick look at it and i will be in the garage all day today getting the rad out, not as huge a job as I was worrying about.
Just spotted you are in Australia, my daughter has just moved from London to Melbourne, she says it it very nice!
Just had a quick look at it and i will be in the garage all day today getting the rad out, not as huge a job as I was worrying about.
Just spotted you are in Australia, my daughter has just moved from London to Melbourne, she says it it very nice!
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Dave Maddock
Topic author - Posts: 19
- Joined: Sat Nov 14, 2015 10:44 pm
#6
Hi
The plot thickens, I am new to e types.
The ac condenser is in front of the rad and it looked like the leak came from this last night when I looked with a torch I thought the condenser was the rad.
The liquid coming out was defiantly antifreeze and matches the header tank which is stil ovet half full, and no more leaks. The coolant in the ac system would evaporate to gas if the condenser was damaged, is this correct? Just checking that the ac system doesn't have some strange sharing of coolant perhaps to provide heat....
So now pressing on to get the rad out and get it presure tested. I am assuming it must have some crud in it blocking and un blocking a small hole.
Thanks, dave
The plot thickens, I am new to e types.
The ac condenser is in front of the rad and it looked like the leak came from this last night when I looked with a torch I thought the condenser was the rad.
The liquid coming out was defiantly antifreeze and matches the header tank which is stil ovet half full, and no more leaks. The coolant in the ac system would evaporate to gas if the condenser was damaged, is this correct? Just checking that the ac system doesn't have some strange sharing of coolant perhaps to provide heat....
So now pressing on to get the rad out and get it presure tested. I am assuming it must have some crud in it blocking and un blocking a small hole.
Thanks, dave
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PeterCrespin
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#7
Both may use a similar fluorescent dye to demonstrate leakage more easily. So depending on antifreeze and AC oil dye shade, you could end up with easily-confused leaks.
Bear in mind I am colourblind when evaluating the above info....
Bear in mind I am colourblind when evaluating the above info....
1E75339 UberLynx D-Type; 1R27190 70 FHC; 1E78478; 2001 Vanden Plas
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Dave Maddock
Topic author - Posts: 19
- Joined: Sat Nov 14, 2015 10:44 pm
#8
After much messing about I just took it out for a run, got it hot and up to presure and then looked with a torch to see where the leak was. Slap bang in the middle of the rad.
Took the rad out and had it recored, 380 quid plus VAT.
Rad back in. All ok, thanks for you help.
Took the rad out and had it recored, 380 quid plus VAT.
Rad back in. All ok, thanks for you help.
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