The 'E' Type Forum

My car's choke has always been rather difficult to pull out. The knob was busy breaking off as a result.

Today I removed the entire choke cable, inners and outers. Removed the inner cable, sprayed a whole lot of carb cleaner through the outers, let it dry, squirted graphite power down the outers, cleaned the new inners (which happen to be slightly smaller in diameter) with steel wool, and then installed everything.

Now choke works as it should

(Think I'll have to replace the choke knob anyway...)

Sounds good, might have to do the same to mine soon, my choke knob looks terrible, where would you get a new one?

Ikebaddog wrote:Sounds good, might have to do the same to mine soon, my choke knob looks terrible, where would you get a new one?

SNG Barratt shows them in their parts list C36818.

Cool, thanks for the info

Mask off choke and spray lightly with black wrinkle finish...it will look brand new ! Easy. Yup, keep that cable lubricated ! Its funny that Jag always called it a choke, as it is not a choke...it simply to hold the carb open a bit to make it more drivable when you first start a cold engine.

John

John Wrote:

Its funny that Jag always called it a choke, as it is not a choke...it simply to hold the carb open a bit to make it more drivable when you first start a cold engine.

Hello John,
It’s not just a case of holding the carburetor open. It’s true that the butterfly is held open slightly more via a Fast Idle Cam, but fast idle adjustment on it own is not sufficient. The “Choke” is actually a starting enrichment circuit and works by drawing additional fuel from the float chamber through a series of holes in a disc in the mechanism and enters the low depression area of the carburetor.

The amount of extra fuel available depends on the position of the disc within the mechanism, which is controlled by the manually operated cable, and therefore the size of the selected passages in the rotating disc.

Regards,

Bill