The 'E' Type Forum

Hi, gents
Since I seem to attract all kinds of problems on my S3 OTS I decide to put the car to a full day of tests with my Picoscope to see what the status is and fix everthing until driving season returns. To do all those tests I definitely dont want to creep around that huge bonnet the whole time and should some serious stuff surface I need to remove it anyway.
According to the workshop manual this looks pretty straight forward but first of all how heavy is it (with bumpers and lights installed) and can 2 adult men lift it or are more required. Also are those struts under load or just dampers since there is no warning of any kind in the book. I have recently removed the bonnet on my XKR and it made changing those timing chains comfortable work.
Sincerely,
Bernhard

Hi Bernhard,
Other than to remove the engine there really is no need to remove the bonnet. Just put the front end on ramps or stands and make up a link about six to eight inches long to add to the end of the stay. That way the bonnet can stand vertical and you will have good access all round.
Cheers,

Bernhard, have you seen this?
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=6058

Click on he link and it will show you how to remove the bonnet easily and quickly

Geoff

This might be true but, depending on my testroutine the result may call for an engine revision anyway (cylinderhead gasket?) but I really want access to all components from all sides. My friend also tries to avoid taking the bonnet off and suggested to remove the wheels in addition to getting the bonnet fixed upright.
According to the manual there are two plugs (light and sprayerhose) to disconnect, 2 clips from the damper and 2bolts off and that sounds much easier then run around that monster of a bonnet the whole time.

But, it seems everybody on the forum too works around it instead of removing it, what is the reason? Just getting the radiator out is easier and so is everything else it seems.
Bernhard

Thanks Geoff
Thanks a million, this is exactly what I needed. I have two or even 4 helpers in the family and since I am paying theyr fitness center membership it sure must be for such an occasion.
So if he can do it without any damage, we sure can lift it off and put it aside without any damage.
Thanks again for that link. Worth it in gold.
I had to many bruises working on my MK2 and I don’t want to repeat that and I am sure more problems will surface during those upcoming tests.
Bernhard

With a little planning I can remove my bonnet by myself. But as mentioned you really do not need to take the bonnet off to get at most areas around the engine - you just need to remove the gas strut and lift the bonnet to the vertical position and then supporting it. Depending on your front ride height the bonnet may fold ok or the front wheels may need to be on small blocks.

Same process to remove - place a large piece of carpet under the front (or a purpose built trolley) and with the bonnet in the vertical position (supported), bumper overriders just touching the carpet or trolley, you can them remove the two pivot bolts and the walk the bonnet away to a safe place.

But is not really needed to remove it.

Garry

Thanks for those great answers, but I am so excited that for a change, with this car and the bonnet removed, access will be so much improved that this is the only way to go for me. Also I did not mention that I have a paint damage in the middle of the bonnet which needs to be fixed anyway so as soon as spring comes around and my paintshop gets all the other classics back on the road he will do my bonnet.
Btw., the paint damage on the bonnet happened because some idiot put SU HD8s on the engine but did not check first if they even fit under the bonnet, they did not and when they closed the bonnet those carbs lifted some paint off, idiots. But to top that, their solution was to cut the tops of those carbs off. Now the inside pistons have limited travel on the two left hand carbs.
In my humble opinion: some people should be banned from working on cars.
Thanks,
Bernhard