Gearbox removal with engine in situ

Talk about the E-Type Series 3

Doddsy
Posts: 35
Joined: Sun Jan 01, 2017 8:53 am
Location: Teddington
Great Britain

#21 Re: Gearbox removal with engine in situ

Post by Doddsy » Mon Jun 01, 2020 9:13 pm

Thanks for pointing this out Kevin. I presume one needs to remove the rear extension housing to get to the oil seal (as per workshop manual) and I would imagine this can be done without actual removing the gearbox and bell housing from under the car? How difficult is it to get the drive flange off? I could imagine the scenario where gear box is away from the engine but still underneath the car with a flange that is very difficult to remove.
Teddington UK. Series 3 OTS 1972. Owned since 1982.

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tim wood
Posts: 1200
Joined: Fri Nov 20, 2009 6:52 pm
Location: Leighton Buzzard UK
Great Britain

#22 Re: Gearbox removal with engine in situ

Post by tim wood » Mon Jun 01, 2020 9:26 pm

I replaced the oil seal on my series 1.5 without removing the box. All done from inside the car.

Not difficult once you have the console out. Of course mine would be a short tail gearbox, Yours will be a long tail box and may be different. Plenty of threads on here about how it’s done.
Series 1 FHC purchased 40 years ago. Courted my wife in it.
Series 1 2+2 when the kids were small now sold.
Series 1.5 OTS in opalescent maroon, Californian car. My retirement present.

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Norton
Posts: 71
Joined: Tue Oct 15, 2019 5:51 pm
Location: Norway
Norway

#23 Re: Gearbox removal with engine in situ

Post by Norton » Sat Feb 12, 2022 7:56 pm

Hi.
Have just removed gearbox from S3 -74. There are some obstacles at least on my car.
Step 8. When flange cleared body about half way, generator bracket hit rh cooling fan bracket. Removed that one. Not much further, starter mounting flange hit body as rear of engine moving down. To continue engine had to pivot on this point. Then servo pump pulley hit left side of picture frame. Engine was moving forward when jacking, lowered it again. Put a strap on gearbox flange to avoid engine moving forward, now rear of engine heads hit firewall.. In the end, somewhere between theese positions I was just able to get the gearbox end low enough to move it rearwards and out. (After rotating it anti clockwise to clear starter flange from body.)

And lower end of steering shaft / universal joint squeezed hard on coolant hose to oilcooler - and started to leak ( LHD ). Had to drain coolant. On the bright side coolant looked like new after a year service.

As SimonBroberts I am planning to fit a compact overdrive. Box rear extension is very slim compared to OD. So I obviously have to get rear end of engine a litttle bit further down. How this can be achived, I don’t know yet.

Any ideas??

Btw, photo shows which engine mounting bolts I removed. 2 each side

Rgda Harald.
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Norton
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Joined: Tue Oct 15, 2019 5:51 pm
Location: Norway
Norway

#24 Re: Gearbox removal with engine in situ

Post by Norton » Sat Jun 11, 2022 9:12 pm

Hi. The OD is now fitted and working very satisfactorly in my S 3 e type. It’s ( almost) a shame Jaguar didn’t have an option with OD on the e type. It will now cruise at 70mph with 2000 rpm, very satisfactory! It is a tight fit under there but no modification, cutting, grinding, banging or welding was needed. Needed some elecrical wiring ofcourse. I choose to fit a late Volvo OD relay as it works as I wanted. OD controlled by a momentary “on” switch. ( push on / push off ). If you shift out of 4th, OD is not engaged when selecting 4th again. As the «A» OD initially draws ca 17 amps also wired in a relay to take care of supplying OD solenoid with el. power. Volvo used later versions of laycock OD’s which do not have this initially high current, and I don’t know if Volvo relay can handle this. ( probably will as this high current is only for a very short while ). Considered a button on top of gearstick, would require a hole all the lenght throug gearstick for electrical wire. A local engineer shop could manage that, but did not have correct size special drill bit. If I wanted a hole I had to pay for the drillbit whitch is rather expensive. Fitted a momentary on toggle switch instead. Also wired in an extra cutout relay operated by reverse switch. Belt and braces to avoid OD engaged simultaneously with reverse whitch probably spells disaster. Theese 3 relays are placed under the dash just left of a/c fan with a plastic cower cut out from a blach oil can…

Thanks for valuable help and tips. Rgds Harald.
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