The 'E' Type Forum

Hi All
I turned the ignition key and it continued without the usual stops or resistance to position 3 without ignition light coming on or fuel pump etc working. At other times I turned to position 3 and the ignition light and fuel pump light worked but the key would not turn them off when rotated counter-clockwise (without the usual resistance) to off position. The steering lock seems to be working judging by the healthy "clunk" when the ignition key is removed. The ignition key barrel slot looks a bit worn.
The "quick fix" was a bit of fiddling - rotating the unit up and down a bit on the steering lock and pressing a bit on the ignition wiring side. I'm not sure which of these desperate measures resulted in a temporary fix but suspect the first one did the trick (?). However the problem is becoming more frequent.
Would greatly appreciate advice as to the solution and if that means paying the approx £300 for a completely new steering column lock with ignition switch, wiring etc, so be it (ouch!).
Could you also please advise how best to remove the current unit and what else has to be removed to do so. The current unit seems to have the sheared part of the shear bolt in place (using a mirror to view it). Could you also please advise the best way to replace the unit. I'm not particularly concerned to retain the shear bolt as a means of security (?) and if you can please advise what size and thread etc of bolt I can use to replace it, that would be helpful.
Look forward to receiving your advice.
Best regards
Chris

Dear Chris,

The key, barrel and steering lock assemblies are working fine.

The bit which is giving you the problems is the bit at the back which houses the electrical connections. It is held on to the main assembly with a grub screw and when you take it apart, you'll find a spring, a ball bearing and the tracks which connect or disconnect as the switch rotates to different positions. That is what needs attention, either cleaning, repair or replacement as they aren't connecting as they are rotated by the key.

kind regards
Marek

Yes, I agree with Marek. I had this exact problem on my TR6 last weekend. Changing over the electrical component worked (luckily I just happened to have one that's been in a drawer for 25 years), and I was back in business. Be very careful with the aforementioned grubscrew since it is very small and easily lost. While I was at it I lubricated the lock mechanism with graphite powder which also had a good result. Good luck!
Peter

chris420sa wrote: ↑

Sat Apr 28, 2018 4:37 pm

I turned the ignition key and it continued without the usual stops or resistance to position 3 without ignition light coming on or fuel pump etc working. At other times I turned to position 3 and the ignition light and fuel pump light worked but the key would not turn them off

Hi Chris - just asking what this fuel pump light is - is it just a typo or do you have one - if so I assume aftermarket.

Cheers

Garry

Garry - my mistake, I meant to say the oil pressure light.

Problem now solved after some fiddling around with the switch and installing a new plastic ring around the rear of the switch - the ring seems to act as a good retainer for the switch.
Although the ROM, correpondence with Marek and reference to jaguar-lovers website states that there is a phillips grub screw retaining the switch, my steering lock/ignition switch definitely doesn't have such a screw. Could mine be a replacement steering lock/switch installed by a PO when spares were more difficult to obtain?

For interest to Series 3 owners, if you need to purchase a new ignition switch from SNG B, they do sell one which has a connector comprising two male and two female connections to the plug on the harness (as opposed to the connector on the switch shown on their website).
All the best
Chris

No, there is a grub screw retaining the switch.
There is a shear bolt retaining the steering lock assembly.
If you want, you can replace the shear bolt with an Allen headed bolt if you so wish.

kind regards
Marek