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#1 V12 breaking down when hot

Posted: Thu Apr 01, 2010 5:53 pm
by man
My 1974 e-type has started to break down after driving for about an hour or so. It has a new distributor cap, new ignition unit, new plugs. Firstly it misses, then goes OK, then misses much more and with a final loud bang and some black smoke the engine quits. Wait till its cold and it runs beautifully again. Really annoying as when it goes to the garage it of course runs perfectly. Thought it might be the coil, also been told to put some spacers between the amplifer and the engine in case it it overheating. Any other ideas?

#2

Posted: Thu Apr 01, 2010 9:00 pm
by harryetype
That will be your ignition unit 100%

If you have replaced it with the original Opus unit they will fail. You need to upgrade it. and ask for a refund on your current unit.

We do net sell V12's without doing just that because its certain to let you down.

Magnecor leads are also a good option.

I hope this helps.

#3

Posted: Thu Apr 01, 2010 9:34 pm
by vipergts
Yes without any shadow of doubt.

Happened to just about every V12 E I have owned inc the Commy. Harry and me sat for hours waiting for recovery on the very day I went to collect it.

#4

Posted: Tue Apr 06, 2010 9:20 am
by Woolfi
I also believe, that the OPUS amplifire causes the shut down. Maybe it will help, when you mount it on the frame in the front of the motor, that it is cooled by fresh air. Maybe this helps.
The best solution would be the change to the system, sold by Barratt for roundabout 400 pounds. Outside the amp looks like Opus, inside the modern technic of the ignition system from the HE-motor. Inside this implifire is a "chip", which can be bought - if damaged - in ebay for 35 Euro.
If you have bought your Opus amplifire new, you should have warranty and the dealer must give a new one.
Kind regards Wolfgang Gatza

#5

Posted: Wed Apr 07, 2010 12:29 am
by AussieEtype
My series 3 has been in Aust since 84 and has been used an everyday vehicle for about 8 years since then. Even in the 40 degree summer heat I have never had a problem with the amplifier and mine is mounted in the valley.

What I did have problem with was the coil. My car would start OK when cold and run very well hot or cold but would not start when hot. A mechanic had been doing some work and had removed the coil - when he put it back he tightened the bracket a bit too much. When cold the coil worked OK but when it got hot the internals expanded a bit and provided an intermittent short. Not noticeable when running bit prevented starting.

The symptoms you describe sound like a coil breaking down when hot. Put in another coil (any 12v one will do) to test and if the culprit get a new coil.

Garry

#6

Posted: Fri Jul 09, 2010 9:04 am
by iandec
I have the same problem, when cold she runs well, as soon as she heats up it misses quite considerably and struggles to start when hot. I have changed the ignition unit and distributor for the modern unit and am under the impression that it is the coil, will have a go immediately. Feeling low as I cannot use the car whilst the weather is so nice. :(

#7

Posted: Fri Jul 09, 2010 11:09 am
by Heuer
You need one of these: http://www.reopus.co.uk./

#8 V12 Breaking Down While Hot

Posted: Wed May 02, 2012 1:10 pm
by Max
Heuer wrote:You need one of these: http://www.reopus.co.uk./
Which route would anyone recommend - just replacing the amp with a reopus 4 or going the whole hog and buying the ignition conversion kit which also replaces coil, disturb etc at almost twice the price?

I'm pretty sure the amp is giving up the ghost on mine, it's sporadic but the symptoms are very well described in the V12 Breaking Down While Hot topic. By the time it is towed back to the garage and they investigate the next day it starts perfectly.

#9 I agree

Posted: Wed May 02, 2012 5:26 pm
by D COUPE
I agree with everything that has been said and the NEW opus is the best
yet................................

With the very damp weather We have just had it would be advisable
also just to check for damp in the distributor.........ask Me how I know!!

Dave C

#10

Posted: Wed May 02, 2012 6:00 pm
by MarekH
Dear Max,
Do a test to see which component fails by getting a bag of frozen peas and using it to cool the failed component. Alternatively carry a spare OPUS/coil/resistor pack (not in the engine bay) and experimentally swap them next time it happens.

Before making significant expenditure, you can of course relocate the opus, resistor and coil to the front of the engine - somewhere where it will have airflow to cool it.

Too often these threads are full of "I changed this - I changed that and it made no difference, etc" because people clutch at straws rather than work out what the real problem is. You may have the world's only rock solid reliable OPUS but wired up with 40 year old toasted wiring.

The PO on my s3 used to always complained that it needed a battery booster to start it because of a similar OPUS/ballast/coil claim. I looked at the wiring and saw that the ignition wires into the ballast were only held by three tiny strands of copper and one new connector meant it started first time every time.

Just check it and THEN spend the money where it is needed.

kind regards
Marek

#11

Posted: Thu May 03, 2012 11:40 am
by vee12eman
Hi,

I agree with Mareks' ideas, certainly find out what is wrong first, then fix it. Personally I was building a car from scratch, so went for a Reopus - all the components of my system had been lying around in mouldy old boxes for ages. I didn't want to build the car and be let down by a known failure point and I had to replace the distributor anyway cos mine was badly corroded. The distributor was a second hand unit from an XJS, but I didn't realise the wiring was a little different. I actually got Reopus New Zealand to install the new board in the amplifier and solder the wires, he also explained how to make my distributor work with the amplifier and also drive the tacho, which is how the wiring differs.

I stripped, derusted and freed up the distributor - the weights tend to stick and I used the original Ballast Resistor and coil, they work fine. The wires were nicely soldered by Reopus at the amplifier end, but the connector end wires failed shortly after installation, (like in Mareks post - check those wires as well - it could be a free repair) so I got the old terminals out, replaced them and some of the wires and get the car going again nicely. I located the Reopus in the original location in the vee of the engine, but used spacers to allow more cooling air to pass around it and made a stainless steel heatshield to go between it and the engine.

Anyway, the Reopus (version 4 I think) works fine, even on a very hot day!

Regards,

Simon