Has anyone fitted a mechanical oil gauge in place of the standard electric set up in an early S3? (Early means with the pressure sender take-off on the left side of the block below the exhaust manifold.)
If so how did you route the capilliary from the take-off point to the gauge in the dash and also what size adaptors were needed to connect to the block in place of the original electric sender?
Mechanical Oil Pressure Gauge
#1 Mechanical Oil Pressure Gauge
Pete G(formally e-bygum)
1971 S3 2+2 OSB
1971 S3 2+2 OSB
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#2 Re: Mechanical Oil Pressure Gauge
Hi Pete,
Yes, I did the conversion last year as one of many jobs I was able to do during lockdown. The original sender unit had been playing up for some time and did buy a replacement sender from SNG some time ago, however after reading so many comments about replacement senders failing after a short period I felt the mechanical sender was the way to go.
I think one reason for the high failure rate of the original senders must be due to the very high heat levels around that area of the engine. With this in mind I was not comfortable in just connecting a plastic oil pressure gauge pipe up to the original block taping. The solution for me was to make up a steel pipe to connect to the block and clear the high heat area.
To do this I mocked up the shape the pipe would need to be with a length of copper brake tubing bending it to the shape required to connect up and route out without contacting either engine or any other parts in that area. Once I got the basic shape right with the copper pipe I replicated it in 3/16 steel brake pipe. I silver soldered brass nipples to both ends of the tube with 1/8 BSP tube nuts to fix.
On the block taping you need a 1/8 BSP to 1/2 BSP male/ male adapter available on eBay and a 13mm copper sealing washer. The large end screws into the block in the place of the original sender.
With the steel pipe in place I used a standard Mini oil pressure gauge plastic tubing to connect to the steel pipe from the engine. This pipe is routed through the bulkhead in the same hole as the heater control. The heater control cable is convenient to fix the plastic tube to also.
I had the centre dash out already for other jobs but I also took the dash top off to pull the plastic oil tube through to the dash and route to the gauge. The result well worth the effort. I hope this helps.
Regards,
Kevin
Yes, I did the conversion last year as one of many jobs I was able to do during lockdown. The original sender unit had been playing up for some time and did buy a replacement sender from SNG some time ago, however after reading so many comments about replacement senders failing after a short period I felt the mechanical sender was the way to go.
I think one reason for the high failure rate of the original senders must be due to the very high heat levels around that area of the engine. With this in mind I was not comfortable in just connecting a plastic oil pressure gauge pipe up to the original block taping. The solution for me was to make up a steel pipe to connect to the block and clear the high heat area.
To do this I mocked up the shape the pipe would need to be with a length of copper brake tubing bending it to the shape required to connect up and route out without contacting either engine or any other parts in that area. Once I got the basic shape right with the copper pipe I replicated it in 3/16 steel brake pipe. I silver soldered brass nipples to both ends of the tube with 1/8 BSP tube nuts to fix.
On the block taping you need a 1/8 BSP to 1/2 BSP male/ male adapter available on eBay and a 13mm copper sealing washer. The large end screws into the block in the place of the original sender.
With the steel pipe in place I used a standard Mini oil pressure gauge plastic tubing to connect to the steel pipe from the engine. This pipe is routed through the bulkhead in the same hole as the heater control. The heater control cable is convenient to fix the plastic tube to also.
I had the centre dash out already for other jobs but I also took the dash top off to pull the plastic oil tube through to the dash and route to the gauge. The result well worth the effort. I hope this helps.
Regards,
Kevin
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