The 'E' Type Forum

Hi all, does anyone have a photo of the area under the spare wheel of an unrestored series 3?

My restoration has got as far as a painted but bare shell and I’m starting the build up by replacing the sound and vibration deadening pads (hardura) starting in the boot so I can return the fuel tank and the rest of the fuel system bits.

I want to try and make it look as authentic as I can though I’m not seeking to build a concours trailer queen.

Thanks

Brilliant!

Thanks.

Ah that’s interesting Colin as you have a bit of sound deadening to the right of the spare wheel thread, which I will now try and replicate.I’m using a sort of hemp with a plastic bonded top surface which is slightly like the original material seen in both your photos which I’m hearing is unavailable, at least in the UK.

Bob

Do these help. Before & after.

Part # BD.38073 according to my parts catalog. Maybe sometimes not refitted, I can think of pro's and cons. Imo would be one of the most effective sound deadening panels in the boot, for preventing reverberation and for muting the fuel pump. However it is under the fuel pump and filter, any fuel leaks/spills that soak into this hardura could cause a smell that might be difficult to remove.

Here is flat pattern, inside the red line, should scale ok ...

The Hardura as shown in Colin's pic is supposed to be there - However early in my ownership I removed it as any water finding its way into the boot area drains out there and with the Hardura in place moisture accumulates under it and rusts the floor.

AussieEtype wrote: ↑

Fri Dec 03, 2021 12:58 am

The Hardura as shown in Colin's pic is supposed to be there - However early in my ownership I removed it as any water finding its way into the boot area drains out there and with the Hardura in place moisture accumulates under it and rusts the floor.

Ain't that the truth...under the tank.

Always a risk when hardura is glued? At one stage I did a brutal deodorizing, which resulted in the corners of some hardura becoming unstuck, curling up a bit. When I restuck them I noticed this subject piece (BD38073) had a small cavity under, easy to do I guess as it is a flat piece being stuck to a complex surface. Fortunately no corrosion. Restuck it with weights and clamps to hold it until the glue had set.

Thanks guys my hardura pads were in a real mess, not helped by me forcibly ripping them off the car before it was media blasted. So I have struggled to create new panels but using all your photos I’ve managed to cut guess it and cut new ones from a felt/hessian sort of material with a plastic top surface (cos I couldn’t get from anyone in UK the original hardura).

Trouble is, any water getting in the boot is going to soak up into that worse than hardura so going to be very important to ensure no leaks.

On that there is a fuel tank pad BD37908 which I think goes round the drain but which was not fitted to my car. Don’t know whether this is a good idea or bad- it might stop water kicked up from the road entering the boot and getting stuck causing rust but equally it would stop water draining out and the area under the tank being ventilated.

Photo shows job half way through after today.

Bob

Technique used was like ColinL. Only right ones stuck down so far

Bob,

The original Hardura sound proofing material for Series 3 E-types was a closed cell foam (1/2" thick, readily available) with a black vinyl material bonded to the mat upper surface. I would recommend - strongly - removing the hemp based material you've already installed. It will soak up moisture and will lead to massive tin worm rot! Have you checked the usual suppliers as I believe one (or more) offer a complete kit with all the pads made with closed cell foam. If you've used that same hemp material inside the doors likewise - remove it!
Would hate to see all your hard work and effort compromised down the road due to installing incorrect padding.

Stay Well and Happy Trails,

Dick

Hi Dick thanks for that, I got this roll from a leading trim company in the UK, in their view the best alternative to the original which is unavailable. Closed cell foam sheet does not have the plastic top surface and is quite soft, so I thought probably not long lasting.

So I’m going to persevere with this material and hopefully won’t regret it.

Bob

Is it even worth putting it back in? Does it really serve any useful purpose? The fuel pump was originally an in-tank item on the s1 car, but I note that the s3 has these pads on top of and underneath the tank. By contrast, the s3 twin pump is already mounted in a foam cradle. Additionally, a roadster is fundamentally different from the fixed head car, in that the pump is no longer behind a panel in the cabin but relegated to the boot.

kind regards
Marek

Hi Marec yes good question, not a lot is probably the answer but it must reduce noise to some extent.

The key point though is I want to accurately rebuild it as close as possible to how it was- I started with an unmolested time warp car that had sat in a dry garage for 25 years and don’t want to undermine that.

Bob

In that case, don't go to town too much fitting reproduction parts to make sure your car becomes more original.

kind regards
Maurice