I have found many posts about replacing the coolant, however, I still have the following questions before I want to replace the coolant in my E Type V12 myself:
0. Is there a simple way to analyse whether the anti-corrosion additives in silicate cooling water (that is still clear and of blue-green color) are still effective?
The total amount of cooling water in the V12 engine is approximately 20 litres.
1. How many litres does the "small" cooling water circuit have, i.e. the amount of cooling water in the engine?
There is a tap in the lower part of the radiator as the only intended cooling water drainage option:
2. is it advisable to drain the cooling water by loosening the lowest water hose instead of opening the tap (is there a risk that the tap will no longer close tightly)?
3. Does this drain the entire coolant volume (approx. 20 l), i.e. including the volume from the engine ("small coolant circuit"), or only the coolant volume from the radiator, or do the thermostats have to be open to drain the entire coolant (i.e. warm engine with coolant warmer than 82°C) or do the thermostats have to be removed when the engine is cold?
I interpret from several posts that the ability of the coolant system to self-vent is limited, so when topping up with coolant, park uphill so that the header tank is higher than the heater or bleed manually by disconnecting the heater water hose.
4. are there any bleed valves that can be retrofitted and is this advisable?
5. what else do I have to consider when filling up with cooling water; does a cold engine (cooling water colder than 82°C) with "closed" thermostats prevent complete filling with cooling water?
Thank you very much for the answers!
Talk about the E-Type Series 3