Torsion Bar Fitting
#1 Torsion Bar Fitting
Afternoon all, there is a plethora on this subject which I have found invaluable but !
I am struggling to refit the shock absorber, having followed the manual, I know it me , it’s hot I’m flustered. Removing the setting gauge which is set at 19.25” centres, the shock does not reach the lower locating point, it is at full stretch and is short by an inch. I don’t wish to use force as I am not convinced this is the best approach.
I have, I believe, followed the manual details correctly to set up the TB manoeuvring the spline to ensure line up to reaction plate.
I have hopefully attached an image to demonstrate my dilemma, every days is a learning day so look forward to any insights offered.
I am struggling to refit the shock absorber, having followed the manual, I know it me , it’s hot I’m flustered. Removing the setting gauge which is set at 19.25” centres, the shock does not reach the lower locating point, it is at full stretch and is short by an inch. I don’t wish to use force as I am not convinced this is the best approach.
I have, I believe, followed the manual details correctly to set up the TB manoeuvring the spline to ensure line up to reaction plate.
I have hopefully attached an image to demonstrate my dilemma, every days is a learning day so look forward to any insights offered.
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#2 Re: Torsion Bar Fitting
Have a re read of the service manual...think you should be jacking the hub up to fit the shock....its not supposed to be the same length as the setting link
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (just sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
69 S2 2+2 (just sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
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#3 Re: Torsion Bar Fitting
And if the engine is out, you’ll need some ‘hefty’ friends to sit on the frames to do it.
Richard
Previous owner and restorer of a S1 3.8 FHC Opalescent Golden Sand with Tan Trim 889504 (now sold and headed for Athens)
Previous owner and restorer of a S1 3.8 FHC Opalescent Golden Sand with Tan Trim 889504 (now sold and headed for Athens)
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#4 Re: Torsion Bar Fitting
Worst case is you have to wait for the engine/gearbox install and get it back on it's wheels before you can attach the damper, in which case it will go on easily. You don't need the dampers until it's ready to run, so what's the rush?
Steve
'65 S1 4.2 FHC (early)
'65 S1 4.2 FHC (early)
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#5 Re: Torsion Bar Fitting
Surely the engine and gearbox are fitted already? Otherwise, the reaction plate etc. will have to come out again.
Regards
Regards
Stuart
If you can't make it work, make it complicated!
'62 FHC - Nearing completion
'69 Daimler 420 Sovereign
'78 Land Rover Series 3 109
If you can't make it work, make it complicated!
'62 FHC - Nearing completion
'69 Daimler 420 Sovereign
'78 Land Rover Series 3 109
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#6 Re: Torsion Bar Fitting
It's Posted in the Series 3 section, therefore, presumably the car is an S3. With an S3, there is no Reaction Plate per se, but an " I " Beam anchor members bolted to the floor. The engine will go in just fine with the suspension totally in place.
Regards,
Bill
Regards,
Bill
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#7 Re: Torsion Bar Fitting
Yes it’s a S3.
From the comments I am on the right track, the engine and gearbox are out currently so there is limited down force to assist.
Many thanks
From the comments I am on the right track, the engine and gearbox are out currently so there is limited down force to assist.
Many thanks
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#8 Re: Torsion Bar Fitting
If it's any help I used a turn buckle with long enough eye bolts fitted to the shock mounting points to pull the lower control arm up enough to connect the upper ball joints & tie rod ends. Then the car can sit on its wheels or with a suport under the lca and a little more weight on it will enable the shocks to be fitted.
Randall Botha
'64 3.8 fhc & '51 Mk 7
'64 3.8 fhc & '51 Mk 7
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#9 Re: Torsion Bar Fitting
Hi Paddy,
Looks like a top notch S3 restore you have going on. May I ask which torsion bars you are using? The uprated ones from SNG require a pre-tension and this I think would damage the wishbones if left without shock or linkage attached due to the strong downward force. I was able to remove the linkage and push the shock into place with a jack underneath the lower wishbone, but I had the engine in place.
Paul
P.S. I am not sure about the pre tension being correct for the SNG bars as I discuss in another post.
Looks like a top notch S3 restore you have going on. May I ask which torsion bars you are using? The uprated ones from SNG require a pre-tension and this I think would damage the wishbones if left without shock or linkage attached due to the strong downward force. I was able to remove the linkage and push the shock into place with a jack underneath the lower wishbone, but I had the engine in place.
Paul
P.S. I am not sure about the pre tension being correct for the SNG bars as I discuss in another post.
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