Ever since I've had my S3 I've had issues with fuel smell in my daughters room above garage.
I've spend several hundred pounds ensuring carbs balanced, new fuel cap but still smell - even after 3 weeks holiday and it sitting idle so not on start up etc....
Is there an issue with the vents on the fuel tanks? Are they accessable? Has anyone else experienced this? Would a modern filter on the fuelk breather line be a benefit and possible cure?
Need some solution and sharpish as women in house moaning every night!
Thanks,
Malcolm
Fuel vaporisation
#2
Mine's the same. If you find the answer let me know...
'73 V12 2+2 Manual. I am on first name terms with every petrol pump attendant in the south of England.
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#4 smell !!!
Mines the same, after checking the fuel system from top to bottom for a minor leak (which there lsn't) I gave up and live with it. To be quite honest I like the smell but the wife refuses to get in the car .....RESULT OR WHAT as she would only want to smoke in it. Have been in sunny Florida for past three weeks as we own a place out there (mates rates for club members if anyones interested 3 bed 2 bath pool villa near disney) and I was thinking of buying another E as I tend to get withdrawel symptons after a few weeks. However that was firmly stomped on by 'she who must be obeyed' so it looks like a SUV going in the garage 
Got back this morning and I am freezing so a run in the E is needed, after all who has ever complained about being cold in one
jon
Got back this morning and I am freezing so a run in the E is needed, after all who has ever complained about being cold in onejon
1974 ser 3
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#5
OMG that is so so spooky, I literally sent a cheque off today For a house in Florida at Christmas next door to freinds of ours!!! At least I can see you don't live in London so similarity ends there!
One of my engineers thinks the pin in the carb has been cut so its not sealing properly. Mine has gone from a potent smell when parked to a BIG rush of fuel on lift off only and if I blip it going into garage its as if I fill up the carbs and then it stinks. I've just had ceiling re-done and plasterers coming next week then I'll artex it just to see if that will stop smell going up to bedroom above........ Smell into utility I can live with.
Next lot of money will be back end rebuild as the bearings on drive shaft have play, then perhaps next summer I'll find a carb specialist which will be a complete strip down I guess and few more grand!
If you are ever un in north London PM me and I'll throw you my number for a meet or click link below for daytime number......
M.
One of my engineers thinks the pin in the carb has been cut so its not sealing properly. Mine has gone from a potent smell when parked to a BIG rush of fuel on lift off only and if I blip it going into garage its as if I fill up the carbs and then it stinks. I've just had ceiling re-done and plasterers coming next week then I'll artex it just to see if that will stop smell going up to bedroom above........ Smell into utility I can live with.
Next lot of money will be back end rebuild as the bearings on drive shaft have play, then perhaps next summer I'll find a carb specialist which will be a complete strip down I guess and few more grand!
If you are ever un in north London PM me and I'll throw you my number for a meet or click link below for daytime number......
M.
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#6
Hi Malk,
Why not have a go at a carb rebuild yourself? It isn't that difficult and the carb repair kit costs something like 200 Quid from either Burlen Fuel or Andrew Turner and you can send all the steel brackets off to be blasted and painted. The only special tool you might need is a vernier depth gauge, but most digital calipers now come with a depth facility and are dead easy to read. They can be picked up for around 20-30 quid; mine came from Aldi here in Aus! This is used to set the depth of the new jet when you tap it back into place - simply match the measurement of the original jets (remember to measure before you remove them but after you clean them!). It's a very rewarding job and while you are at it, you could rebuild the fuel pump too, using an electronic kit to do away with the prone to wear points system. Parts come from the same stockists, hence the suggestion. I rebuilt mine with original points as I wanted to retain the "clicking" sound, then realised that I would have retained this even with the electronic kit, which is easier to fit and set up.
Alternatively, get Andrew Turner to rebuild them for you, He does a great job and I dubt it will cost a huge amount. Try this link:
http://www.su-carbs.co.uk/
Don't worry that he mentions mainly SU carbs, I have bought rebuild kits for at least two Stromberg equipped cars from him (Triumph GT6 and V12 E-type). He does sell carbs outright, but will restore yours for you.
Regards,
Why not have a go at a carb rebuild yourself? It isn't that difficult and the carb repair kit costs something like 200 Quid from either Burlen Fuel or Andrew Turner and you can send all the steel brackets off to be blasted and painted. The only special tool you might need is a vernier depth gauge, but most digital calipers now come with a depth facility and are dead easy to read. They can be picked up for around 20-30 quid; mine came from Aldi here in Aus! This is used to set the depth of the new jet when you tap it back into place - simply match the measurement of the original jets (remember to measure before you remove them but after you clean them!). It's a very rewarding job and while you are at it, you could rebuild the fuel pump too, using an electronic kit to do away with the prone to wear points system. Parts come from the same stockists, hence the suggestion. I rebuilt mine with original points as I wanted to retain the "clicking" sound, then realised that I would have retained this even with the electronic kit, which is easier to fit and set up.
Alternatively, get Andrew Turner to rebuild them for you, He does a great job and I dubt it will cost a huge amount. Try this link:
http://www.su-carbs.co.uk/
Don't worry that he mentions mainly SU carbs, I have bought rebuild kits for at least two Stromberg equipped cars from him (Triumph GT6 and V12 E-type). He does sell carbs outright, but will restore yours for you.
Regards,
Regards,
Simon
Series III FHC
Simon
Series III FHC
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#7
I really don't have the time!! Would love to, joys of running a business and trying to make some money. I agree very rewarding and I intend to do the interior so at least I've done something!! I'll ask a mate who has some F1/F3 experience on engines and half understands and if he willing to help over christmas as we're back on 26th I may give it a bash!
You are right should be a job to do ones self.
Especially when we can blast anything back with the Ice Blaster we have too!!!
You are right should be a job to do ones self.
Especially when we can blast anything back with the Ice Blaster we have too!!!
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#8
There are no less than four Stromberg guide's in our Knowledge Base, one running to 74 pages! http://etypeuk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1664
David Jones
S1 OTS OSB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
2024 Lexus LBX
Add your E-Type to our World Map: http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1810
S1 OTS OSB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
2024 Lexus LBX
Add your E-Type to our World Map: http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1810
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#9
Am I being bullied into striping these down myself? :)
Think I may plump for the ?500 option and send them off for complete overhaul!!! Looks tempting.......
Think I may plump for the ?500 option and send them off for complete overhaul!!! Looks tempting.......
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#10
Not at all - if it was me I would send them for professional refurbishment as Stomberg's, unlike SU's, were 'factory sealed' and not designed to be tinkered with, hence the very comprehensive documentation compared to the Skinner's Union product. However you may want to understand what is involved in doing the work so a) you don't get ripped off and b) you can give said documents to whoever you are going to use to rebuild them.
David Jones
S1 OTS OSB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
2024 Lexus LBX
Add your E-Type to our World Map: http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1810
S1 OTS OSB
1997 Porsche 911 Guards Red
2024 Lexus LBX
Add your E-Type to our World Map: http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1810
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#11
Thats fair comment...... think they need setting up correctly, think like nuts and bolts are easier to 'play' with.
Will take off over christmas and send off for refurb to su carbs. Looks sensbile, seem to know what they are talking about too.
M.
Will take off over christmas and send off for refurb to su carbs. Looks sensbile, seem to know what they are talking about too.
M.
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#12
Ah the joys (and pains) of making money! I didn't find the Strombergs too hard to recondition, although I served an apprenticeship (so to speak) on SU products on Minis, Spitfires, Heralds, Dolomites....... the list goes on. The most difficult thing was the jet setting, I made a primitive Depth gauge from a bolt and a couple of nuts locked together. This worked OK, but now I wish I had had the digital caliper/depth gauge mentioned in my earlier post.
I guess there are a few extra complications over the SU carbs, Strombergs are actually an improved version of SUs, despite the fact that so many people change back to SUs. I think the simplicity and wide usage of SUs is the main attraction, parts are easier to come by, as is expertise. It is notable that the two main specialists that deal with them mention mostly SUs on their site, but do a very good job on the restoration of both types.
I met Andrew on several occasions at mainly Triumph shows (he actually took the E-type carb rebuild kit to a Triumph show for me to pick up and save postage). His carbs looked great, his knowledge was extensive (and can only have improved in the 3-4 years since I last had opportunity to meet him). Burlen also have a great reputation and I bought the pump rebuild kit from them, again excellent service and knowledge. Give them both a ring and see who gives the best deal at the time.
Good luck with the interior, I trimmed my car myself, even learning to sew along the way! I still have original seat covers, although I reconditioned them with a kit from Connolly's (well, the company holding the licence to sell the products). I bought and re-covered head rests, they came from a Daimler I think. I trimmed the doors myself (easy), also the boot boards, (probably easier), then re-trimmed the rear arches , which is where the sewing came in. This was not so easy, but I am proud of the results and probably saved hundreds of pounds/dollars in doing so; maybe not concours, but much better than what I started with. Goodness know how Jaguar did this on the production line, I had to do it in several stages of glueing, although I know the design was changed on later Series III cars and looks easier to complete. Just above these panels are two panels which cover the speaker apertures, I made these and modified them for integral speaker grilles. I also made the panels around the rear windows and above the arches myself, steaming the boards (with a cheap steam cleaner) to shape and re-covering with new vinyl. I am pleased with the results, but would do things differently if there was a next time, as the MDF I used was a little too firm/thick/stiff. I could not make the original clips work, but the boards are so stiff they hold their shape nicely, but getting some of the screws in (especially for the hinge covers) was a b@$7@rd of a job! Then I found that the extra thickness of the board meant they would not fit with the boot boards, so had to remove them, trim them again and refit them. they are held in place by the "hockey sticks" around the windows and their own stiffness, clips were not strong enough to hold them, but you can't tell. I think my wife heard me swear more than ever before during the process, but again I am proud of the results. I'll clean it all up and post some pictures one day - too busy enjoying the finished car at the moment to find time!
The parcel/map shelves under the dash are original, although fairly easy to make if you can get hold of some millboard. Mine were a little squashed from storage and looked worn, but a light spray of satin black restored them and once bolted in place, the squashed look went away. I did make the millboard panels under the instruments and glove box.
The headlining was a different matter. I have done this before (Triumph GT6, but despite the similar shape, very different in concept). However, my car had a very tatty sunroof, which I wanted to preserve. This was brilliantly restored by Peter Harvey from Kent, who actually travelled up to Hertforshire to fit it, also re-trimming the sun visors to match and the whole thing for less tha 700 pounds, including materials, repair, repainting the framework, travel and fitting. I am delighted with this work.
Anyway, good luck, please ask if you want to find out how I approached any of the work; I am not an expert, but you may be able to learn from my mistakes!
Regards
I guess there are a few extra complications over the SU carbs, Strombergs are actually an improved version of SUs, despite the fact that so many people change back to SUs. I think the simplicity and wide usage of SUs is the main attraction, parts are easier to come by, as is expertise. It is notable that the two main specialists that deal with them mention mostly SUs on their site, but do a very good job on the restoration of both types.
I met Andrew on several occasions at mainly Triumph shows (he actually took the E-type carb rebuild kit to a Triumph show for me to pick up and save postage). His carbs looked great, his knowledge was extensive (and can only have improved in the 3-4 years since I last had opportunity to meet him). Burlen also have a great reputation and I bought the pump rebuild kit from them, again excellent service and knowledge. Give them both a ring and see who gives the best deal at the time.
Good luck with the interior, I trimmed my car myself, even learning to sew along the way! I still have original seat covers, although I reconditioned them with a kit from Connolly's (well, the company holding the licence to sell the products). I bought and re-covered head rests, they came from a Daimler I think. I trimmed the doors myself (easy), also the boot boards, (probably easier), then re-trimmed the rear arches , which is where the sewing came in. This was not so easy, but I am proud of the results and probably saved hundreds of pounds/dollars in doing so; maybe not concours, but much better than what I started with. Goodness know how Jaguar did this on the production line, I had to do it in several stages of glueing, although I know the design was changed on later Series III cars and looks easier to complete. Just above these panels are two panels which cover the speaker apertures, I made these and modified them for integral speaker grilles. I also made the panels around the rear windows and above the arches myself, steaming the boards (with a cheap steam cleaner) to shape and re-covering with new vinyl. I am pleased with the results, but would do things differently if there was a next time, as the MDF I used was a little too firm/thick/stiff. I could not make the original clips work, but the boards are so stiff they hold their shape nicely, but getting some of the screws in (especially for the hinge covers) was a b@$7@rd of a job! Then I found that the extra thickness of the board meant they would not fit with the boot boards, so had to remove them, trim them again and refit them. they are held in place by the "hockey sticks" around the windows and their own stiffness, clips were not strong enough to hold them, but you can't tell. I think my wife heard me swear more than ever before during the process, but again I am proud of the results. I'll clean it all up and post some pictures one day - too busy enjoying the finished car at the moment to find time!
The parcel/map shelves under the dash are original, although fairly easy to make if you can get hold of some millboard. Mine were a little squashed from storage and looked worn, but a light spray of satin black restored them and once bolted in place, the squashed look went away. I did make the millboard panels under the instruments and glove box.
The headlining was a different matter. I have done this before (Triumph GT6, but despite the similar shape, very different in concept). However, my car had a very tatty sunroof, which I wanted to preserve. This was brilliantly restored by Peter Harvey from Kent, who actually travelled up to Hertforshire to fit it, also re-trimming the sun visors to match and the whole thing for less tha 700 pounds, including materials, repair, repainting the framework, travel and fitting. I am delighted with this work.
Anyway, good luck, please ask if you want to find out how I approached any of the work; I am not an expert, but you may be able to learn from my mistakes!
Regards
Regards,
Simon
Series III FHC
Simon
Series III FHC
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#13
Actually makes me want to attack it now! As you say enjoting the car is primary, going to see what happens during my first winter although long range weather here shows snow not until March so hopefully that means very little salt between now and next year!!
I think I'm more likely to let someone do the carbs, my hands on approach is sales not mechanicals - although my engineers wouldn't mind attacking the car I'd be better placed in hands of someone knowing what they are doing. I get the enjoyment out of owning, detailing and driving cars.
Will see how we go and let you know! Advice appreaciated and will print and leave in file for reference...... Steam units won't be an issue got plenty in the showroom!
M.
I think I'm more likely to let someone do the carbs, my hands on approach is sales not mechanicals - although my engineers wouldn't mind attacking the car I'd be better placed in hands of someone knowing what they are doing. I get the enjoyment out of owning, detailing and driving cars.
Will see how we go and let you know! Advice appreaciated and will print and leave in file for reference...... Steam units won't be an issue got plenty in the showroom!
M.
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#14
Hi again,
When you come to attack the interior, I have photos and wrote up the basic process for my series in the E-type club magazine - I am not saying my way is the best, far from it. Anyway, it will appear at some time in the future, but there are quite a few articles in the series, so it may be a while before it does! Let me know if you want to see it before then and in any case,Ii can give you more detail and as I said, you can learn from my (many) mistakes!
Regards,
When you come to attack the interior, I have photos and wrote up the basic process for my series in the E-type club magazine - I am not saying my way is the best, far from it. Anyway, it will appear at some time in the future, but there are quite a few articles in the series, so it may be a while before it does! Let me know if you want to see it before then and in any case,Ii can give you more detail and as I said, you can learn from my (many) mistakes!
Regards,
Regards,
Simon
Series III FHC
Simon
Series III FHC
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#15
On the basis got a couple bubbles in paint, by time I finish mechanics off, drop back end down and rebuild and replace front sub frames prob be 2 years so will need painting prior to interior!! I have been reading with interest, The Book will be published before then won't it? :)
Certainly will come back to you prior.....
M.
P.s. Likewise if you have any issue with your K?rcher pressure washer happy to help!
Certainly will come back to you prior.....
M.
P.s. Likewise if you have any issue with your K?rcher pressure washer happy to help!
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#16
Needles all bent and not able to set up correctly. Looks like they will be off for refurb. Difs all refurbed, new exhaust centre boxes, new downpipes, gaskets, headlights so just adding to the list!!
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Mountain King
- Posts: 96
- Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2011 6:22 pm
#17
Am in the same position as you regarding the carbs.
Was going to send them off for a professional rebuild then spotted a complete set of Strombergs and air intake manifolds for 100 quid on fleabay!
Just received them last week and am now in possession of the complete rebuild kit, time to get the hands dirty!!!
I figure that this way I can still drive the car and if i totally stuff up the rebuld i can just take it to a specialist :D
I am planning on documenting the process, starting with disassembly and soda blasting and posting photos and a dialogue on the forum.
it will be slow, only have the weekends but hopefully a satisfying time.....
Simon et al, I may have to pick your brains for knowledge on more than one occasion :)
It all starts this week, oh and I am not a mechanic,just a geologist, so this will written definitely from a novice point of view!!!
Andy
Was going to send them off for a professional rebuild then spotted a complete set of Strombergs and air intake manifolds for 100 quid on fleabay!
Just received them last week and am now in possession of the complete rebuild kit, time to get the hands dirty!!!
I figure that this way I can still drive the car and if i totally stuff up the rebuld i can just take it to a specialist :D
I am planning on documenting the process, starting with disassembly and soda blasting and posting photos and a dialogue on the forum.
it will be slow, only have the weekends but hopefully a satisfying time.....
Simon et al, I may have to pick your brains for knowledge on more than one occasion :)
It all starts this week, oh and I am not a mechanic,just a geologist, so this will written definitely from a novice point of view!!!
Andy
1973 Series 3 OTC
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#18
I've gone totally lazy route and an every increasingly patient Simon Hemsley at Philip Porters 'Pad' is investigating who has some refurb carbs ready to throw on my money pit!!
At least I can get them polished which will keep my 7 year old happy as he loves the engine!!!
One thing is for sure I wont come back stinking of fuel every time I can the car out....... windscreen used to get plastered and garage stunk.
Look forward to seeing your pics.
At least I can get them polished which will keep my 7 year old happy as he loves the engine!!!
One thing is for sure I wont come back stinking of fuel every time I can the car out....... windscreen used to get plastered and garage stunk.
Look forward to seeing your pics.
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#19
Obviously an industry that lacks any growth or more to the point no one wants to learn - these guys can't find apprentices. 8-10 weeks to get Carbs refurbished which I wasn't prepared to wait so bought rebuild kit from Carburetteur Hospital and Simon is rebuilding with new jets, floats. Dearer way to do it and not cleaned through but thought of car off road until May or even June is silly and not sorting problem is just as daft.
All the parts they supply are original and genuine so this will sort the fuel smell, fuel on the windscreen and hopefully some very slightly better economy now!
All the parts they supply are original and genuine so this will sort the fuel smell, fuel on the windscreen and hopefully some very slightly better economy now!
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#20
Just a note Hutsons Bradford do an exchange basis for the carbs. Last time I was in they had a bench full ready to exchange! For all models.
Dave C
Dave C
ITS NOT WHAT YOU DRIVE ITS HOW GOOD YOU LOOK IN IT
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