The 'E' Type Forum

Failed the MOT on rear brake discs so looks like a few days work
Is dropping the rear a one man job ? once off its not rocket science but will I need a hub removal tool (might as well do the lot while its down) or is there a sneaky way you know to get them off (without damage) so I have the new brake pads, discs, hoses, whheel bearings, 2 new drive uj,s and a partridge in a pear tree
any advice most welcome
should have added I will be doing in the garage with jacks, bottle jack and wheel ramps (if I can get it on )
jon

And a diff oil seal

jonhall88 wrote:And a diff oil seal

You can definately do it on your own - most important thing is getting the balance right so when it is free of the body it doesn't rock forward or backwards.

Not sure you need a hub puller to remove the discs though.

Ta
Bet it rains for next 7 days !

Nope - according to Weather Underground you are in the clear: http://www.wunderground.com/q/zmw:00000.8.03858 but Monday/Tuesday could be a slight issue!

Hi,

Definitely, dropping the suspension subframe can be done by one man, and brake discs can be replaced without a hub puller, but you may have difficulty dropping the rear suspension, the normal problem being the radius arm front bushes which have a habit of rusting solid. Is your car a 2+2, as there is a recently discovered method of doing this job more easily. See recent posts for details.

Balancing the whole assembly is difficult - this is where help comes in handy, I made an adaptor plate for my trolley jack which makes the job a lot easier by making the assembly secure on the jack, plus a couple of tools to help manipulate the rear mounts when refitting. Remember that it is not just balancing the subframe/diff/suspension assembly on the jack, but balancing the car on the stands at the correct height. It helps if the car is level, but using axle stands mean that there is a risk of the front end becoming nose heavy when you drop the subframe assembly, so support the front end of the car well - one way is to mount the front wheels on ramps or blocks at the front end. I prefer using sleepers and I hate using ramps, if I do use them, I tend to jack the car up and lower on to them rather than trying to drive onto them. If you use axle stands at the front, be careful where you place them - well forward so the weight of the engne/bonnet does not make the car tip forward.

Also, beware when lifting the rear end as the four rear subframe mounts have been known to fail and the rear unit can drop straight off without warning if unsupported. Best to replace these mounts with good quality Metalastic units from reputable suppliers if you have any doubt - remember the whole unit depends on the rubber in these mounts to support the whole, very heavy weight of the rear suspension. Support the unit at all times whilst hanging on the old mounts, I jack up from the centre of the rear subframe, then place the stands under the body, then leave the jack in place until actually lowering the unit. Secure the subrame assembly securely to the jack before lowering it, this is where my adaptor plate came in, it allows me to bolt the suspension to the plate and it is really solid. I can post pictures if you wish.

To rebuild the complete unit needs a few other tools, including a DTI to measure wheel bearing end float, a collection of shims for the same and a very capable hub puller to get the hubs off. I bought a Sealey hydraulic hub puller kit - not cheap, a very substantial and complete kit and it still struggled, although I managed in the end, I think I used heat as well (heat gun, not a blow torch). You also need a tool to help set the bearings in the hubs, the measurements are in the original Jaguar manual and I got one turned up at work.

It is a big job so be careful, but can be done at home, but may be better farmed out if you don't have tools, space, engineering confidence etc. It is very rewarding though and you are right that with the subframe out, it is the opportunity to replace everything.

Regards,

Simon

I'd second what others have said - the IRS can readily be removed single-handed, I've done it 3 or 4 times. Balancing the IRS on the trolley jack is, as others have said, a bit tricky but not a major issue and I found the worst part was trying to move the jack around with the IRS on top to get the IRS out from under the car after dropping it. I made a simple trolley - a sheet of thick plywood to fit under the centre of the IRS between the lower wishbones, with some Machine Mart swivelling wheels bolted to it on angle iron outriggers. The wheels are tall enough that the trolley jack can fit inderneath the plywood.

My technique is;
Jack the rear up and put axle stands in place under the longitudinal chassis members.
Remove the rear section of the exhaust.
Put the trolley jack under the IRS with the plywood sandwiched between the jack head and the IRS.
Disconnect everything, then drop the IRS down on the jack until the trolley wheels reach the deck.
Remove the jack, wheel the IRS out sideways on the trolley.

The most time consuming bit is disconnecting the exhausts. Apart from the first time when I was new to it and the fasteners were all rusty etc, I now find I can get from exhaust off, to IRS out, in around an hour. Good luck!

very helpful thanks for advice. I am off to the Thame Game Fair this weekend so it will have to wait a while. Gives me time to make a nice wheeled support as mentioned above. Looking at it the bolts all around the rear unit have been liberally greased and recent shocks / springs so the previous owner has had it down at some time. I now realise that the oil drip from the rear diff seal has been dripping on the exhaust and as I nearly always have the rear windows cracked open this is where the fumes (just enough to notice) are coming from. All spares now recieved (mostly SNG) including new exhaust fittings. Heres to a trouble free job (fat chance) good thing is from experience to be careful, last time I tackled anything this heavy is when my Stag gearbox (inc overdrive) fell on my hand (16 stitches plus three broken fingers) A process I will not be repeating. Strangely enough I loved that Stag .
jon

Well rain has truly stopped play for now, one good thing is I have all the parts (and more) so once its down I will do a complete job changing the discs, pads, fit a bleed upgrade kit, front pinion oil seal, driveshaft UJ.S (didn't realise how beefy these are) upper and lower shock bushes brake hoses and irs mounts.. probably end up degreasing and painting while Im at it, if it ever stops raining. I am also doing the front pads and top front balljoints as they were picked up on the mot as an advisory.
Another pick up were my tyres (pirrelli p4000) which they said were not legal as they had no E mark !!!! this sounds like total cobblers to me as they were bought in the uk.
Note :
why are the p4000 tyres in the uk more than 3 times more expensive than in the states and the dunlops 4 times more expensive ?

The P4000 tyres are unavailable for the foreseeable future and no one has stock. Vredestein 185's have also shot up in price for some reason and are no longer the bargain they were as prices are approaching those of Michelin. Give Dougal at Longstone Tyres a call for up to date info on this.

While you have the IRS apart don't forget to fit remote brake bleeders to make life easier. Several people offer kits including Rob Beere, Stevson Motors and Ward Engineering.

Hi john......re replacing the front pinion oil seal beware that when replacing the nut it has to be done up to the exact same torque or the preload is altered...suggest you look at the youtube video of wheeler deelers with edd china replacing the pinion seal....Steve

Well I had an hour spare today so thought I would whip off the rear exhaust to start the irs drop tomorrow. After reading some horror stories abot the exhaust I was very pleased that it took the best part of ten minutes. It was only after removing it I realised I have an extremely manky full stainless system ....bonus or what ! However my bodge it has been at work with some dodgy self tappers so they are coming out and the holes being welded on my trusty tig.
I dont know what Jaguar were thinking of with their jacking points I wouldn't trust them on a mini let alone a rather heavy e type. Spreaders to even out the weight lift were used. Lights now working in the garage so it can rain all it likes now.

Well after dropping it off (with aid of daughter) no real problems.
measured the disks and they are well within size limits with minimal wear. As for the UJ,s there is no play on them at all so all in all a complete waste of time. changed the pads as a matter of course but loads of meat left on the one coming off. all grease points had fairly new grease in them and no play on the arm bearings. shock ok. changed the pinion oil seal as the old one was weeping and fitted a remote bleeding system, cleaned and painted and back on.
Took car to a more specialised tester and it went through with only an adviser on a dodgy wiper blade
jon