Headlamp scoops chrome trim
#1 Headlamp scoops chrome trim
Can anyone please advise how the headlamp scoop chrome beads shoul be fitted. I have the special rivets with tiny washers and the rubber strip but can't see what is the correct way to fit these. The rubber doesn't want to bend. Should this be warmed up first? Do the rivets secure the rubber as well as the scoops? Any advice will be appreciated.
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#2
Hi Doddsy,
These are not easy to fit, but they are held in place with the rivets and finally in place with the trim itself, which clips on to the rivets quite tightly. When cutting and fitting the trim you have to sort of follow the contour of the bonnet/aperture join, making sure there is enough rubber strip to follow the trim when fitted, but not too much so that you have excess. I think warming it helps too (it was a long time ago, and a warm garage or warm day also help. I painted a bead of waxoyl around too, which sets semi hard and keeps the moisture out, but clean the excess off quickly as it gets harder (although not impossible) as the stuff sets. I also had a bead of wax under the actual joint between the scoop and the bonnet for more protection.
Fit the rubber starting at the top of the aperture, by the wing/top panel joint, leave a little excess, then trim both ends to fit flush under the upper chrome trim when you finish at the same point; the rubber goes on in one piece. It is tricky, but by all accounts easier than fitting the early cars with their glass covers and seals.
The chrome trims are tapped into place with a soft mallet, but old ones have sometimes spread open and refuse to grip around the rivet heads, a gentle squeeze with pliers may be required. Either use soft jawed pliers or cover the tips with plenty of tape or rubber strips. Check too that the flanges on the rear faces of the rim haven't deformed - over hitting a reluctant trim can cause this and you will never get them to fit without some very careful work with pliers or small levers (such as a screwdriver) to re-shape the flanges to fit around the rivets. Don't lose your temper with them and hit them over hard - they are tricky to re-shape - ask me how I know!
The washers are important and fit above the rubber, below the head, allowing the trims to fit around the head of the special rivet. Drill the holes in the rubber with a slightly smaller drill than the hole requires, then push the rivet through - I think the rivets are 1/8", which requires a 3.2 or 3.3 mm drill - check first on scrap metal. Drill the rubber to 3 mm, ideally over some hard wood to remove as much of the wast rubber from the hole as possible. let the drill do the work, spin it fast and don't pus too hard. Mark carefully and take it away from the car to avoid accidents. If you can trial fit with grip pins it helps accurate marking.
Regards,
Simon.
These are not easy to fit, but they are held in place with the rivets and finally in place with the trim itself, which clips on to the rivets quite tightly. When cutting and fitting the trim you have to sort of follow the contour of the bonnet/aperture join, making sure there is enough rubber strip to follow the trim when fitted, but not too much so that you have excess. I think warming it helps too (it was a long time ago, and a warm garage or warm day also help. I painted a bead of waxoyl around too, which sets semi hard and keeps the moisture out, but clean the excess off quickly as it gets harder (although not impossible) as the stuff sets. I also had a bead of wax under the actual joint between the scoop and the bonnet for more protection.
Fit the rubber starting at the top of the aperture, by the wing/top panel joint, leave a little excess, then trim both ends to fit flush under the upper chrome trim when you finish at the same point; the rubber goes on in one piece. It is tricky, but by all accounts easier than fitting the early cars with their glass covers and seals.
The chrome trims are tapped into place with a soft mallet, but old ones have sometimes spread open and refuse to grip around the rivet heads, a gentle squeeze with pliers may be required. Either use soft jawed pliers or cover the tips with plenty of tape or rubber strips. Check too that the flanges on the rear faces of the rim haven't deformed - over hitting a reluctant trim can cause this and you will never get them to fit without some very careful work with pliers or small levers (such as a screwdriver) to re-shape the flanges to fit around the rivets. Don't lose your temper with them and hit them over hard - they are tricky to re-shape - ask me how I know!
The washers are important and fit above the rubber, below the head, allowing the trims to fit around the head of the special rivet. Drill the holes in the rubber with a slightly smaller drill than the hole requires, then push the rivet through - I think the rivets are 1/8", which requires a 3.2 or 3.3 mm drill - check first on scrap metal. Drill the rubber to 3 mm, ideally over some hard wood to remove as much of the wast rubber from the hole as possible. let the drill do the work, spin it fast and don't pus too hard. Mark carefully and take it away from the car to avoid accidents. If you can trial fit with grip pins it helps accurate marking.
Regards,
Simon.
Regards,
Simon
Series III FHC
Simon
Series III FHC
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#3
Simon, many thanks for the advice which has really helped. I have drilled out the rivets that I had previously incorrectly fitted and started again fitting the seal first under the eyebrows as you mention. I have struggled with heating the seal using an air gun and carefully stretching the outside to get it to curve. It is getting there but is taking a long time. I will refit the scoops with sealant as you recommend. Im sure you dont want water in there. Quite a job but it will be worth it in the end.
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#4
Hi Doodsy,
No worries, just note that if you choose to use sealant rather than wax in the joints, you may have difficulty if you come to remove in future. Yes, I know you hope never to repeat this task, but if I remember correctly, the only way to gain access to some of the wiring in there is to remove the scoops, so although removiing them is a pain, it will be nothing compared to the pain if you find that as you remove them, the sealant sticks to the paint on the bonnet; lifting it as they come away......
At the very least, use a non-setting sealant such as Dum Dum.
Regards,
Simon
No worries, just note that if you choose to use sealant rather than wax in the joints, you may have difficulty if you come to remove in future. Yes, I know you hope never to repeat this task, but if I remember correctly, the only way to gain access to some of the wiring in there is to remove the scoops, so although removiing them is a pain, it will be nothing compared to the pain if you find that as you remove them, the sealant sticks to the paint on the bonnet; lifting it as they come away......
At the very least, use a non-setting sealant such as Dum Dum.
Regards,
Simon
Regards,
Simon
Series III FHC
Simon
Series III FHC
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