disassemble anti pollution V12 USA
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christophe37
Topic author - Posts: 20
- Joined: Tue Nov 18, 2014 9:26 pm
#1 disassemble anti pollution V12 USA
Hello,
I'm French (sorry for my bad English) 47, married, 1 boy 16. I live near the Loire Valley. I bought a Jaguar e-type V12 1973 in USA. The car is now in France. Is it possible disassemble all component anti-pollution ? A lot of hose are bad and the system it is very complex. I want a radio for this car.
What is an original mod?l and where it is possible buy it ? Thanks for you're answers.
Regards,
Christophe
I'm French (sorry for my bad English) 47, married, 1 boy 16. I live near the Loire Valley. I bought a Jaguar e-type V12 1973 in USA. The car is now in France. Is it possible disassemble all component anti-pollution ? A lot of hose are bad and the system it is very complex. I want a radio for this car.
What is an original mod?l and where it is possible buy it ? Thanks for you're answers.
Regards,
Christophe
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#2
Bonjour Christophe et bienvenue,
Can't help you for your question re. disassembling the ant-pollution systems of a V12.
Re. a period radio, I bought mine on ebay. There are a number of suppliers.
Chromelondon in UK proposes a number of quality items, pick one which suits you.
Cheers,
Serge
Can't help you for your question re. disassembling the ant-pollution systems of a V12.
Re. a period radio, I bought mine on ebay. There are a number of suppliers.
Chromelondon in UK proposes a number of quality items, pick one which suits you.
Cheers,
Serge
Serge
1964 (3.8) FHC
1961 OTS
1964 (3.8) FHC
1961 OTS
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#3
Hi Christophe,
Yes, it's definitely possible to remove the US spec anti pollution gear. Start by obtaining the part manual - there is a copy in the knowledge base. This will show the parts you need. You will have to replace the carb jets at the same time and source the pipes, hoses etc. shown on the UK spec cars in the catalogue. Manifolds etc. vary from market to market and some have extra attachments for tubes and pipes etc. You can keep your originals but must securely plug any hole left by removing the anti-pollution gear. I think the timing is different - refer to the original manual for details - again, see the forum knowledge base. Then all that is left is to tune it......
For the radio, no problem finding one which fits, there are now some very good modern style radios which take USB inputs and the like, but have the original two button style, as to the actual original radio, the original style was a British Leyland branded item, with FM and AM, but no cassette. I fitted one of the modern old-style ones and it is discussed here:
viewtopic.php?t=163&postdays=0&postorde ... io&start=0
Photos of my installation on page 2).
The original fit radio looks like this, although there are variations:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MG-MIDGERT-VINT ... 58&vxp=mtr
Regards, and welcome to the forum.
Simon
Yes, it's definitely possible to remove the US spec anti pollution gear. Start by obtaining the part manual - there is a copy in the knowledge base. This will show the parts you need. You will have to replace the carb jets at the same time and source the pipes, hoses etc. shown on the UK spec cars in the catalogue. Manifolds etc. vary from market to market and some have extra attachments for tubes and pipes etc. You can keep your originals but must securely plug any hole left by removing the anti-pollution gear. I think the timing is different - refer to the original manual for details - again, see the forum knowledge base. Then all that is left is to tune it......
For the radio, no problem finding one which fits, there are now some very good modern style radios which take USB inputs and the like, but have the original two button style, as to the actual original radio, the original style was a British Leyland branded item, with FM and AM, but no cassette. I fitted one of the modern old-style ones and it is discussed here:
viewtopic.php?t=163&postdays=0&postorde ... io&start=0
Photos of my installation on page 2).
The original fit radio looks like this, although there are variations:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MG-MIDGERT-VINT ... 58&vxp=mtr
Regards, and welcome to the forum.
Simon
Regards,
Simon
Series III FHC
Simon
Series III FHC
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christophe37
Topic author - Posts: 20
- Joined: Tue Nov 18, 2014 9:26 pm
#4
Hi,
Thanks for you're answer. If I understand, it's possible take out all equipment for anti-pollution. I think change Stromberg for SU and distributor conversion kit. After carburettors, ignition are news and no anti-pollution system all it's more easy. Du you think it's easy and more viability ?
Regards,
Christophe
Thanks for you're answer. If I understand, it's possible take out all equipment for anti-pollution. I think change Stromberg for SU and distributor conversion kit. After carburettors, ignition are news and no anti-pollution system all it's more easy. Du you think it's easy and more viability ?
Regards,
Christophe
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#5
Hi Christophe,
It's hard for me to say how easy it all is, as my car was UK spec to begin with and so I didn't convert. However, once you source the correct parts, it shouldn't be too difficult to fit them - just take care when assembling as there are so many components and, in particular, joints and each joint in the air system is a potential source of air leaks. I built my car from a box of bits and it's all fairly logical if taken step by step, although it looks a little daunting at first.
My car is still on Strombergs which personally I think are a superior design to SUs in principle, but let down by some minor design faults which leave them susceptible to both fuel and air leaks. If you are going to change the needles of the Strombergs then it is worth doing a carb rebuild, but assemble them carefully and replace all the gaskets and seals, including the ones in the dashpots (fitted to the mixture adjustment nuts) and those in the bowls, right at the bottom of the carburetors.
I haven't run a car on SUs, but it is not a cheap conversion unless you get lucky and it is debatable whether it is worth the expense from the research I carried out.
The ignition system is known for problems, but there are several remedies, including ReOpus, the SNG system and other systems with which I am less familiar. ReOpus was my choice, which entails either sending off your amplifier to get a new circuit board fitted (I sent mine to Dave Curry in New Zealand - the original designer of the system and got good service and a quick turnaround), or alternatively you can get the circuit board sent to you and do the work yourself (or find someone to do it for you). In a recent magazine from XKs unlimited I saw that they offer the circuit board for self installation. The ReOpus site is here:
http://www.reopusignition.com/
There is a lot of other V12 information on there too, so well worth a read.
The SNG system requires you to exchange the distributor and amplifier and is basically a bolt in system. Not sure about the results as I haven't tried it, but it basically gives you a later V12 (XJS) ignition system.
As I have mentioned on other threads, the Vacuum unit is prone to failure and there are many opinions as to what to do about it, if you are making the modifications you suggest I would test the vacuum unit and see if that needs replacement (blow into the air tapping of the unit and see if the diaphragm is torn - if it is the air will leak past it).
Once all above is done, air leaks are eliminated, timing is correct and whichever carbs you have fitted - SU or Stromberg, the engine will look better, breathe easier without the anti-pollution gear and should be easier to keep in tune.
Good Luck,
Simon
It's hard for me to say how easy it all is, as my car was UK spec to begin with and so I didn't convert. However, once you source the correct parts, it shouldn't be too difficult to fit them - just take care when assembling as there are so many components and, in particular, joints and each joint in the air system is a potential source of air leaks. I built my car from a box of bits and it's all fairly logical if taken step by step, although it looks a little daunting at first.
My car is still on Strombergs which personally I think are a superior design to SUs in principle, but let down by some minor design faults which leave them susceptible to both fuel and air leaks. If you are going to change the needles of the Strombergs then it is worth doing a carb rebuild, but assemble them carefully and replace all the gaskets and seals, including the ones in the dashpots (fitted to the mixture adjustment nuts) and those in the bowls, right at the bottom of the carburetors.
I haven't run a car on SUs, but it is not a cheap conversion unless you get lucky and it is debatable whether it is worth the expense from the research I carried out.
The ignition system is known for problems, but there are several remedies, including ReOpus, the SNG system and other systems with which I am less familiar. ReOpus was my choice, which entails either sending off your amplifier to get a new circuit board fitted (I sent mine to Dave Curry in New Zealand - the original designer of the system and got good service and a quick turnaround), or alternatively you can get the circuit board sent to you and do the work yourself (or find someone to do it for you). In a recent magazine from XKs unlimited I saw that they offer the circuit board for self installation. The ReOpus site is here:
http://www.reopusignition.com/
There is a lot of other V12 information on there too, so well worth a read.
The SNG system requires you to exchange the distributor and amplifier and is basically a bolt in system. Not sure about the results as I haven't tried it, but it basically gives you a later V12 (XJS) ignition system.
As I have mentioned on other threads, the Vacuum unit is prone to failure and there are many opinions as to what to do about it, if you are making the modifications you suggest I would test the vacuum unit and see if that needs replacement (blow into the air tapping of the unit and see if the diaphragm is torn - if it is the air will leak past it).
Once all above is done, air leaks are eliminated, timing is correct and whichever carbs you have fitted - SU or Stromberg, the engine will look better, breathe easier without the anti-pollution gear and should be easier to keep in tune.
Good Luck,
Simon
Regards,
Simon
Series III FHC
Simon
Series III FHC
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#6
If the vaccum unit has failed, you can disconnect the rubber hose and close the end of the hose with a srew or something similar.
The original vaccum unit of the EV12 changes the timing 10 degree later at iddle , because of pollution reasons. If it is not working, it has no disadvantages for the motor at part throttle.
For a better mileage the motor should have a vaccum unit, which is changing the timing at part throttle up to 16 crank-degree earlier. But the rubber hose must be connected to a port at the carbs, which is ending inside the carb roundabout 3 mm in front of the round brass "air-closing" , which is oppened by the pedal. (search for tappered edge + carb + Triumph in internet), This port must be drilled at the stromberg car by the owner.
I have done this at my EV12, it is working well and the mileage is rising up to 1 mile per Gallon (roundabout 5% less gas consumption).
Also I have mounted the ignition system of a XJ12 HE-motor. This system is also working without problems since 10 years and is a lot cheaper, if it is from an old car.
Kind regards Wolfgnag Gatza
The original vaccum unit of the EV12 changes the timing 10 degree later at iddle , because of pollution reasons. If it is not working, it has no disadvantages for the motor at part throttle.
For a better mileage the motor should have a vaccum unit, which is changing the timing at part throttle up to 16 crank-degree earlier. But the rubber hose must be connected to a port at the carbs, which is ending inside the carb roundabout 3 mm in front of the round brass "air-closing" , which is oppened by the pedal. (search for tappered edge + carb + Triumph in internet), This port must be drilled at the stromberg car by the owner.
I have done this at my EV12, it is working well and the mileage is rising up to 1 mile per Gallon (roundabout 5% less gas consumption).
Also I have mounted the ignition system of a XJ12 HE-motor. This system is also working without problems since 10 years and is a lot cheaper, if it is from an old car.
Kind regards Wolfgnag Gatza
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PeterCrespin
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#7 Re: disassemble anti pollution V12 USA
How far are you from 49530 Lir??christophe37 wrote:Hello,
I'm French (sorry for my bad English) 47, married, 1 boy 16. I live near the Loire Valley.
Pete
1E75339 UberLynx D-Type; 1R27190 70 FHC; 1E78478; 2001 Vanden Plas
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christophe37
Topic author - Posts: 20
- Joined: Tue Nov 18, 2014 9:26 pm
#8
Hi Pete,
I live near Saumur (Lir? is 80 kms)
And you ?
Regards
I live near Saumur (Lir? is 80 kms)
And you ?
Regards
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PeterCrespin
- Posts: 4561
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#9
West of Washington DC, but I have driven to the Crespin vineyard in E-types a few times and always with a boot rack. Indeed it is the reason I bought one. ? votre sant?! :-)christophe37 wrote:Hi Pete,
I live near Saumur (Lir? is 80 kms)
And you ?
Regards

When you come to visit bring some of Bernard's reds.
1E75339 UberLynx D-Type; 1R27190 70 FHC; 1E78478; 2001 Vanden Plas
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