Hello Gentlemen,
Good evening. Again having trouble with my 73 V12, american version.
The generator was suspected not to be charging the battery. Dash panel voltage gauge indicated voltage under 12V (not charging). I removed the alternator and let an electrician bench-test it. For my surprise it DID show charge sufficiently.
So remains the question if the voltage regulator may be the cause of the problem. Please hints???
Another question goes to the same subject: since it is much easier (and cheaper for us) to adapt a modern alternator with built-in voltage regulator, are there other components of the electrical system not compatible with this upgrade? would I have trouble with the ignition system? what else?
Thank you, have a nice evening.
Alternator replacement
#2
Dear Claudio,
The external regulator is usually very robust and can easily be rebuilt. It contains just three transistors and the circuit is very simple. There are details already on the web on David Lacey's website if you search.
To fit a different you will need a new bracket and also remove the control box. Making custom parts is never particularly cheap or easy and as there is no call for more amperage in a standard car, it isn't an "upgrade" - it is simply "different" to the original.
kind regards
Marek
The external regulator is usually very robust and can easily be rebuilt. It contains just three transistors and the circuit is very simple. There are details already on the web on David Lacey's website if you search.
To fit a different you will need a new bracket and also remove the control box. Making custom parts is never particularly cheap or easy and as there is no call for more amperage in a standard car, it isn't an "upgrade" - it is simply "different" to the original.
kind regards
Marek
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#3
Thank you again Marek.
Yes I found David Lacey's website and hints on how to rebuilt such original external voltage regulators (see link below for other Jag-fans)
http://www.xketype.com/e107_plugins/con ... content.40 .
Unfortunately the resources and sources of components are very scarce over here - even more difficult to find qualified workmanship with proper equipment for testing and evaluating the electrical system. I feel afraid of leaving the car with curious car electricians.
Originality for me is something very important (my main hobby is collecting ancient military vehicles, so no need to extend explanation), but in the case of the Jaguar reliability and safety must come first. So forgive me if I am talking about replacing these electrical parts, but sure are much easier to replace them, rather than trying to rebuilt (and even more difficult) find the exact cause of the problem.
Anyway, I am not very positive about that decision, so I still will try to open the voltage regulator and see what can be done, before doing any replacement of the alternator. I would like to have opinions from other enthusiasts about that, expecting to hear "doos and don't doos" as well.
Marek, please have in mind that buying parts for these british cars and import them to Brazil is very complicated, burocratic and expensive, much more than giving a call to a part dealer and have them at your door on the next day. Forgive me, OK?
Best!
Claudio
Yes I found David Lacey's website and hints on how to rebuilt such original external voltage regulators (see link below for other Jag-fans)
http://www.xketype.com/e107_plugins/con ... content.40 .
Unfortunately the resources and sources of components are very scarce over here - even more difficult to find qualified workmanship with proper equipment for testing and evaluating the electrical system. I feel afraid of leaving the car with curious car electricians.
Originality for me is something very important (my main hobby is collecting ancient military vehicles, so no need to extend explanation), but in the case of the Jaguar reliability and safety must come first. So forgive me if I am talking about replacing these electrical parts, but sure are much easier to replace them, rather than trying to rebuilt (and even more difficult) find the exact cause of the problem.
Anyway, I am not very positive about that decision, so I still will try to open the voltage regulator and see what can be done, before doing any replacement of the alternator. I would like to have opinions from other enthusiasts about that, expecting to hear "doos and don't doos" as well.
Marek, please have in mind that buying parts for these british cars and import them to Brazil is very complicated, burocratic and expensive, much more than giving a call to a part dealer and have them at your door on the next day. Forgive me, OK?
Best!
Claudio
'73 XKE 2+2 - Yes, I bleed signal red
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#4
Marek et al,
Problem solved. Cause: slight oxidation on contact terminals of the voltage regulator. Opening the box was not necessary. Alternator in place, charging well.
Weekend coming, sunny forecast, Jag on the road again!!!
Thanks.
Claudio
Problem solved. Cause: slight oxidation on contact terminals of the voltage regulator. Opening the box was not necessary. Alternator in place, charging well.
Weekend coming, sunny forecast, Jag on the road again!!!
Thanks.
Claudio
'73 XKE 2+2 - Yes, I bleed signal red
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#5
Hello Marek, facing problems again: generator wasn't charging well, so I turned the voltage adjustment bolt in the voltage regulator box 90 degrees clockwise, as indicated on the box cover. Generator started charging well (13V approx.) when engine is cold. After getting hot (we are on the peak summer over here), radiator fan motor consumps probably most of the battery charge, so generator isn't able to recover charge. Dash panel voltmeter indicates 9V or so and keeps this way, even after running the vehicle on the motorway, while radiator fan motor is probably turned off. Strange issue for me....Besides that, of course another concern, is the very low oil pressure indicated: less than 20psi at idle and 40psi when running with pretty good speed for cooling radiator, so enough to increase oil pressure. A lot of things to discuss and link them together, no? Have a nice sunday gents. Nice regards. Claudio
'73 XKE 2+2 - Yes, I bleed signal red
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#6
Dear Claudio,
First make sure that your battery is charged properly - get a battery charger and charge it up. If it is a gel battery, it'll read about 12.8v when fully charged and 13.2v if it is a conventional type.
Next, your alternator should consistently put out a higher voltage than that at above idle engine speed. This means that the car's electrics will be running from the alternator and that the alternator will be keeping the battery fully charged during normal running.
Finally, get a proper voltmeter and measure what is actually happening, rather than relying on the car's gauges - you already know that some of the contacts needed cleaning so you may not be able to rely on the others.
It sounds as though your alternator is not charging from your description, as the voltage should only ever drop to below a fully charged battery voltage when you start the car with the starter motor.
The standard oil pressure gauge is electrical and so will read low if the car voltage is also very low. This means you can't conclude anything from its reading until you have verified that the car voltage is correct.
Most alternators are set to output about 14v - i.e. a little bit higher than standard battery voltage - otherwise the alternator cannot (re)charge the battery. If the whole car's circuits are operating at 9v, then the alternator clearly isn't charging and so the car's electrics are all running from the battery, which will run down until it is flat. Then you won't be able to restart.
kind regards
Marek
First make sure that your battery is charged properly - get a battery charger and charge it up. If it is a gel battery, it'll read about 12.8v when fully charged and 13.2v if it is a conventional type.
Next, your alternator should consistently put out a higher voltage than that at above idle engine speed. This means that the car's electrics will be running from the alternator and that the alternator will be keeping the battery fully charged during normal running.
Finally, get a proper voltmeter and measure what is actually happening, rather than relying on the car's gauges - you already know that some of the contacts needed cleaning so you may not be able to rely on the others.
It sounds as though your alternator is not charging from your description, as the voltage should only ever drop to below a fully charged battery voltage when you start the car with the starter motor.
The standard oil pressure gauge is electrical and so will read low if the car voltage is also very low. This means you can't conclude anything from its reading until you have verified that the car voltage is correct.
Most alternators are set to output about 14v - i.e. a little bit higher than standard battery voltage - otherwise the alternator cannot (re)charge the battery. If the whole car's circuits are operating at 9v, then the alternator clearly isn't charging and so the car's electrics are all running from the battery, which will run down until it is flat. Then you won't be able to restart.
kind regards
Marek
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#7
Hello Marek - thanks for the hints. I currently let the battery charge in my 24h charger and will wait until tomorrow for the next step and go to an electrics shop for checking voltage charge. Interesting also is the electric oil pick-up on this Jaguar, different from my old jeeps that have oil gauges all plumbed directly to engine block. Kind regards! Claudio
'73 XKE 2+2 - Yes, I bleed signal red
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