air cleaner pipe work

Talk about the E-Type Series 3

Topic author
Jessicarabbit
Posts: 3
Joined: Mon May 04, 2015 3:51 pm
Location: Surrey

#1 air cleaner pipe work

Post by Jessicarabbit » Sat Nov 21, 2015 10:53 pm

I am currently recommissioning a primrose yellow 1972 series 3 E type and have hit a small issue..
The air cleaner boxes have two rubber pipes from the temperure value
Can any one please seen me a picture of the pipe nearest the windscreen as to where it fits......
There is nowhere to put mine !

Regards
Jr
:wavegreatbritain: Jessicarabbit

Link:
BBcode:
HTML:
Hide post links
Show post links

User avatar

vee12eman
Posts: 821
Joined: Mon Nov 26, 2007 7:14 pm
Kiribati

#2

Post by vee12eman » Mon Nov 23, 2015 9:35 pm

Hi,

Just seen this, not sure if you've solved the mystery yet? You don't say which model (i.e. market and year) the car is, it can have an effect due to the differing anti-smog etc. arrangements.

To explain the system, the valves have tubes going forward to the vacuum units on the air cleaner inlets, these (when functional) divert the passage of the air to bring warm air into the carbs when the engine is cold - the warm air is drawn from around the manifolds which heat up quickly. The temperature valves sense the temperature and open/close accordingly.

When open, the valves draw air from the inlet manifolds, there are small air tappings on the black 1-3 branch manifolds which are often fitted with blanks as people remove the temperature valve pipes when either the vacuum units, temperature valves or both fail.

Prior to fitting these pipes (unless for cosmetic appearance and an original look only), check the temperature valves work in hot water (by blowing through them - temperature changes cause them to open/close), next check the vaccuum units themselves respond to suction; the diaphragms often fail. If the diaphragms themselves are intact, the units sometimes do no move because the have been stuck closed by paint of because they have become misaligned and actually foul the internal walls of the air cleaner inlets, both can be overcaome, the latter by some careful bending/manipulation.

I will try to remember to take photos this evening to post them on this thread. Do make sure the pipes you fit are well sealed, the V12 is very susceptible to air/vacuum system leaks.

When I refitted the system to my car, I had to replace both valves and I also incorporated a short metal pipe to allow me to disconnect the pipes when removing the air filter boxes, At least one of the tappings on the manifolds is very hard to reach; being between the two manifolds. I think they are under the rubber 'T' piece connecting them. Make sure the rubber tubing you use is strong enough to withstand vaccuum at reasonably high temperatures or the pipes just collapse under the inlet vaccuum.

Regards,
Regards,

Simon
Series III FHC

Link:
BBcode:
HTML:
Hide post links
Show post links


MarekH
Posts: 1761
Joined: Wed Jul 21, 2010 8:30 pm
Location: Surrey
Great Britain

#3

Post by MarekH » Tue Nov 24, 2015 8:48 am

If you want to use a real name and meet real people who can explain and show you all of these features then pop round for a cup of tea anytime.

kind regards
Marek

Link:
BBcode:
HTML:
Hide post links
Show post links

User avatar

vee12eman
Posts: 821
Joined: Mon Nov 26, 2007 7:14 pm
Kiribati

#4

Post by vee12eman » Tue Nov 24, 2015 9:10 am

Hi again Jr,

here is a photo showing where my pipes are attached - it's virtually impossible to get a clear photo whilst the car is assembled, the light and focus are too difficult to manage, so here is a shot showing the tapping when the newly built engine wasn't fitted. My car is UK spec so probably the same as yours.

Image

Regards,
Regards,

Simon
Series III FHC

Link:
BBcode:
HTML:
Hide post links
Show post links

Post Reply Previous topicNext topic