73 USA S3 2+2 Won't Start

[trguy75]

List:
I replaced my fuel pump, filters, and added an inline filter before the fuel pump just for safety. The fuel starvation issue is now fixed. I have oodles of fuel coming out of the hose right before the carbs. For some reason however, the car has decided not to start. Checked fuel and there is plenty. I removed a spark plug and checked for spark and - no spark. I drove it in the garage prior to replacing the fuel pump. Hadn't touched anything in the engine bay, had the battery ground off while doing the pump job.

The engine turns over just fine, plenty of battery juice and starter power. It has a nearly new SNG Barrett electronic igntion setup. Any ideas what to check? I checked connections on clips and plug wires at all places. Lucas starter relay gone bad?


Thanks in advance,
Jim

[jivili]

I would pull the coil lead from the top of the distributor and check to see whether you are getting a spark from the coil.

[Gfhug]

Jim, I wouldn't have thought there would be anything wrong with the starter relay if your starter is working.
Isn't there a lead coming from the ignition switch to the coil? Could that be at fault?

Geoff

[FRE444K]

Jim

Assuming the fuel supply is not an issue although I don't quite understand why you have put a filter in line before the pump when there is one already fitted in the spare wheel well and although you say you have plenty of fuel in the supply, can you hear the non-return valve "fizzing" before trying to start the engine? If you can, you can be sure fuel is flowing around the system and for the moment should look no further on the fuel side.

On the electrical side as has been suggested you need to test for a spark - again I know you removed a plug to test. Was it wet? If it was then fuel is getting to the cylinder.

If you have an AVO meter I would suggest the following:

At the ignition coil Connect an AVO (voltmeter) between the + terminal and earth. Switch on the ignition and you should have between 4 to 6 volts.

If below 4 volts you will need to check the value of each resistor in the ballast unit next to the coil.
These rarely go wrong but you should read:
resistor 1 7.6 - 9.2 ohms,
resistor 2 0.72 - 0.80 ohms
resistor 3 0.9 - 1.0 ohms

If above 6 volts take the distributor cap off and turn the engine over until two of the rotor rods are equi-distant from the pick up module and check the voltage again.

If all OK next check the ignition coil for continuity. Using the ohm meter with the ignition off connect across the + and -ve and you should have between 0.8 ohms and 1.0 ohms If outside these figures or it is open circuited you need a new coil.

If this os all OK suggest you take the HT lead out of the centre of the distributor and leave the end near the engine earth and crank the engine to see if there is a spark there. If not it is likely you have a problem with the amplifier unit so check all the connections are clean and tight.

Sorry to be so long winded but there's a lot check on these old contactless systems. Hope this helps if not there are more test you can do on the amplifier unit

[42south]

Be careful with the ballast resistor test results. The SNG kit uses a non standard one, I'm not sure what the numbers should be.
Perhaps someone could test one and post them.
Cheers