Cam Covers

on2wheels · Post by **on2wheels** » Wed Jun 02, 2010 9:34 pm

Hi
I will soon be checking my tappet gaps.
I expect to order cam cover gaskets and cam cover washers.
Is there anything else I will need?
Do I need to look out for anything else.
Stethescope indicates greatest noise from nuts on cam cover nearest driver on the inlet side.
Also rev counter generator area. Could that be a source of tappity noise?

Nick.

christopher storey · Post by **christopher storey** » Wed Jun 02, 2010 9:56 pm

Hmm... noise near the tacho generator might be expected to be a clattery noise rather than a tick, tick, tick noise. The generators do not usually produce noise, so checking for tightness of the allen screw fastenings may be advisable. Best to use a gasket cement quite liberally on the gaskets - the non-hardening ones are best - and I tend to put some silicone sealant round the stud/cover interface on the lower studs, before putting the copper washers on, as this minimises the leakage of oil

on2wheels · Post by **on2wheels** » Sun Jun 06, 2010 6:06 pm

Thanks Chris,
One last job to do before the cam covers come off.

My door window frame is a little too close to the quarter light window post for comfort.
I will need to move drivers door just 3 to 4 mm forward.
I have the workshop manual. But if anyone has tried the manoeuvre please let me know.

Thanks,
Nick.

christopher storey · Post by **christopher storey** » Mon Jun 07, 2010 8:51 pm

This is a nasty problem . I do not advise trying to move the door forwards, ( and I cannot really think how you would do it unless there are already shims between the door and the hinge) unless you have an obviously excessive gap at its front edge. I note that your centre pillar appears to have the bottom plate cracked, which is not uncommon . Although changing these pillars is a tricky job because the 2 BA screws and holes (top and bottom, the top ones being real b**tards to fix) are often misaligned, I think that it would be preferable to try and do this rather than move the door . How is the fit of your rear quarter window with the pillar as presently fixed?

on2wheels · Post by **on2wheels** » Tue Jun 08, 2010 7:23 pm

Hi
Thanks for the advice Chris. Yes adjusting the door looks very difficult.
Can't see any shims at the door post end.
Am I correct in assuming that the bolts affixed to the door are not in slots to allow for movement?
Yes my quarter light post was fractured, and yes I couldn't undo the screws. Therefore spot weld had to be done in situ. Nervous!

Awaiting rubber seal from SNGB before fitting rear quarter light.
I think part of the problem is associated with the door window frame.
Remember I had trouble with that earlier.
By loosening everything and tapping frame forward have created 4mm space. Might be enough.

Nick.

Post by **1954Etype** » Tue Jun 08, 2010 7:28 pm

on2wheels wrote:Hi
Thanks for the advice Chris. Yes adjusting the door looks very difficult.
Can't see any shims at the door post end.
Am I correct in assuming that the bolts affixed to the door are not in slots to allow for movement?
Yes my quarter light post was fractured, and yes I couldn't undo the screws. Therefore spot weld had to be done in situ. Nervous!
Awaiting rubber seal from SNGB before fitting rear quarter light.
I think part of the problem is associated with the door window frame.
Remember I had trouble with that earlier.
By loosening everything and tapping frame forward have created 4mm space. Might be enough.

Nick.

Nick, looking at the photo, your door seems to have dropped as well. Might be worth while sorting out that problem first. Has the hinge pin worn?

on2wheels · Post by **on2wheels** » Wed Jun 09, 2010 7:25 pm

Hi,
Nick I don't think the door has dropped. It may be an illusion as the door
wasn't shut in the above photo. Top door rubbers catch on roof gutter trim when opening door. I will check though when everything is back together.
At the moment door trim off. I managed to create about 4mm by moving door window frame assembly forward.
Quarter-light seal arrived and fitted into slot. Great! :D
Quarter-light hinge post clamp not tight enough as I only have 3 screws out of five.
NEED HELP SOURCING SCREWS.
I need a couple more screws type BD 4899/1. :?
SNGB do not stock these.
Any help in finding these screws would be greatly appreciated.
A specification for the screw would help as I could then search on ebay.
Thanks,
Nick.

Post by **Heuer** » Thu Jun 10, 2010 7:28 am

Nick

Try: http://www.namrick.co.uk/

christopher storey · Post by **christopher storey** » Thu Jun 10, 2010 10:06 am

Nick : I am pretty sure that Andy at Hutsons has these : 01274 669052

on2wheels · Post by **on2wheels** » Fri Jun 11, 2010 1:09 pm

Correct Chris, I have some delivered today 90p each.
Worth every penny.

Nick.

on2wheels · Post by **on2wheels** » Tue Jun 15, 2010 11:29 am

Hi,
For tappet adjustment are there any special tools required?
Can a non Jaguar, but competent garage do the job?
I know I may have to get a selection of shims.

Nick.

christopher storey · Post by **christopher storey** » Tue Jun 15, 2010 1:14 pm

Nick : I would not entrust this work to someone inexperienced in Jaguar engines. If you are going to do it yourself , it is not that difficult in itself, but it does require a very methodical approach,particularly with the head still on the engine, not least to prevent accidental collisions between opposing valves, and valves and pistons. The golden rule is that all the clearances must be accurately measured , and then the cams must be set in the prescribed position, and the sprockets disconnected, after which NO turning of any part of the engine is permitted unless the cams have been fully removed. No special tools are required except the camshaft positioning tool which makes the achieving of the prescribed position much easier , and an accurate micrometer, either mechanical or electronic . The methodical approach also is essential in working out the shims you require, from the measured clearances and the shims already in place . It is also useful to know that the aftermarket half thou shims eg .0895 instead of .089 ( Hutson's have them) are very much cheaper than the factory ones which IIRC are in any event rather difficult to come by now

on2wheels · Post by **on2wheels** » Tue Jun 15, 2010 6:37 pm

Hi,
Thanks Chris for your very helpful reply.

Nick.

on2wheels · Post by **on2wheels** » Tue Jun 15, 2010 7:24 pm

Chris,
To simply measure the clearance is a set of feeler gauges all that is needed?
Can the camshaft setting tool be obtained from Hutson's also?

Nick.

christopher storey · Post by **christopher storey** » Tue Jun 15, 2010 8:51 pm

Yes and Yes. An imperial set of feelers is what you want, otherwise you are forever converting ( not that it's that difficult since for these purposes 1mm = 40 thou).

JEP41 · Post by **JEP41** » Tue Jun 15, 2010 10:40 pm

Hi Nick,

It ios useful to have the top timing Chain tensioner tool also, You will need to slacken off the chain before removing the sprockets, if it becomes necessary to change shims. Then retension when all is reconnected. This tool cam be made but SNG or Hutsons probably stock it.

Rob Beere makes a fancy Cam Timing tool with four options on the one Tool. Only really useful on performance engines

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