Door Glass Adjustment

[RichardF]

Dear All

The top of the door glass is shy of the hood seal on my e-type. Is there a way of adjusting the glass so that it winds up higher? there is nothing on this in my Haynes manual.

[1954Etype]

Dear All

The top of the door glass is shy of the hood seal on my e-type. Is there a way of adjusting the glass so that it winds up higher? there is nothing on this in my Haynes manual.

Richard,there is a stop in the winder mechanism which stops the window glass going too high. Remove the door casing and you should see a large screw threaded into a big square nut in the bottom of the winder mech.

Should be obviosl once you see it. To adjust it, slacken it off (not too much) close the door and wind the window up. The stop will find its' natural position. TIghten up and recheck.

[RichardF]

thank you, I will try this.

[RichardF]

It appears that my windows are fully extended. I have a gap of between 18-22mm between the top of the window and the cant rail frame. The rubber seals I have only just touch the tip of the window rather than the window glass inside edge closing onto the rubbers. Is this normal as I can see how I will get a decent seal?

I have a picture but I do not know how to place it in here.

Would anyone mind emailing me some close up shots of the seal areas around the glass/hood so that I can see if I have a problem. My email address is richard@frog.co.uk.
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[Heuer]

Richard

Details of how to post a picture are here: http://etypeuk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=850 It may seem like a bit of a faff to get it set up but in reality it is a doddle and will help members answer questions if they can see what they are dealing with.

[christopher storey]

Richard : it sounds to me as though your main hood frame may be sitting too high. I am frankly not sure how much room for adjustment there is, but I should try loosening the ?3 screws which hold the main frame behind the doors on each side , and seeing if you can persuade the frame to lower a little . I shall try tomorrow to take a photo or two of my OTS with the hood up ( in 14 year I have never before done so !!), and e mail them to you

[RichardF]

Thanks

Here it is.


wow it worked.

[kingzetts]

I don't think your window is fully extended. It is normal (although it looks odd at first sight) for the front edge of the glass to protrude up to a cm or so beyond the top of the front channel so that the "corner" where the glass turns horizontal can be seen clearly. With the stop mentioned by Christopher removed the glass will come much higher and indeed will come out the top. If you adjust the stop in the winding channel as Christopher suggests, your gap will reduce. A surprisingly large movement in the position of the stop is needed for a small change in glass height.

If your glass won't come higher with the stop removed, it may be that the inner edge of the channel along the bottom of the glass is fouling the inner edge of the window frame where it bolts onto the top edge of the inner door skin. I had this problem and had to "squeeze" the edge of the frame and the inner door skin top edge together slightly with g-clamps to create enough clearance to allow the winder mechanism and glass channel to clear the frame assembly. It makes more sense when you look at it than it does when I try to write it down.

Cheers

[RichardF]

Hi John

Thanks for that. Having spoken to Tim at CMC Classic Cars (very helpful) I think you are right.

I have rechecked the winding mechanism and I can find no trace of a restrictor - I had started to wonder if it was being stopped by the top of the door. I will try this and let you know.

Thanks for the valuable advice.

[RichardF]

John, you were exactly right the window was catching on the frame - I just now have to bend this out of the way. Did you manage to do this without removing the window glass???

[1954Etype]

John, you were exactly right the window was catching on the frame - I just now have to bend this out of the way. Did you manage to do this without removing the window glass???

Richard, you should be able to manipulate the frame without removing the glass. I'm afraid a lot of it is trial and error until you get it right as you can move the bottom of the frame in all axis by loosening the bolt and nut on the right angle brackets inthe bottom of the door. Also, the top can be moved by loosening the self tappers on the top of the door shell.

[RichardF]

Thanks I will try that

[kingzetts]

Richard,
Tim at CMC is excellent - he's helped me a lot as well as doing my bodywork.

My problem was not solvable by adjusting the window frame within its range of adjustment in the door shell, because the metal channel carrying the bottom edge of the glass (and linking to the winder arms) was actually fouling on the inner edge of the base of the window frame assembly (the bit that is screwed to the top of the door casing) so moving the frame relative to the door shell did not help (although that didn't stop me trying first).

What I did required removal of the glass but not of the frame, which must remain attached to the door - but this is easy (admittedly on new door shells with well-lubricated glass channels). I presume you will have removed the inner door trim capping piece as well as the door trim panel. Try this - wind the window up as far as it will go but then back it down a fraction. Gently prise the bottom edge of the glass outwards relative to the frame until the channel/winder lugs will just clear the frame base and wind the window up some more until the channel is above the frame base. Keep going (carefully) and the winder mechanism lugs will come out the ends of the slide channels and then you can just pull the glass assembly up and out of the frame.

What I then did was get a couple of largish g-clamps. Position a length of wood along the upper edge of the inner door skin. At this point the door inner skin and the inside lower edge of the window frame form a sort of upside-down U-shape in cross section. I was able to squeeze this U-section using the G-clamps so that the window frame edge inside the door aperture was bent inwards towards the inner skin to create enough extra clearance that when reassembled the window no longer fouled. The wood stopped the door skin marking and distributed the load of the G-clamps so the frame, rather than the door skin, bent.

If successful you'll need to install a stop on the winder mechanism. If you look at the channel along the base of the glass there are the two slider channels for the winder. The frontmost of these should have a small tapped hole near its front end (2BA if I recall). This is where the stop attaches. My stops were missing so I simply made some up from a piece of aluminium bar held in with a machine screw. Getting the length of the stop right is a matter of trial and error. With just the machine screw in place my windows went a bit too high. I think the stop I ended up using had the centre of the machine screw hole about 13mm from the rear edge of the stop. If you make the stop too long initially, it can easily be filed down to shorten it. Alternatively, make a long stop with holes every 5mm or so. I found that 5mm on the length of the stop would only change the glass height by a little bit.

If you're anywhere near Worcester you're welcome to stop by and have a look at mine - the doors are still untrimmed and all is visible. If it would help I could snap some pictures tonight and post them.

Cheers

[RichardF]

Thanks John

Great advice and the windows now wind up properly and the fit with the hood is great.