Front Crank Seal Fitting Tips Please

[rfs1957]

“... all I can imagine is that the new (slightly longer) seal track is forcing the oil slinger onto the timing chain.”

Doesn’t make sense, sorry. The slinger sits against the sprocket no matter what length of spacer you use. So the noise cannot have been a change in distance between chain and a slinger ‘forced’ against it by a different spacer. Maybe you bent the slinger taking the spacer off?

Absolutely correct, Peter, the slinger is clamped by the collar, whatever its length ; the collar that runs in the seal is nothing more than a spacer that transmits the load from the crank-nose bolt, via the damper, onto the succession of parts that abut the crank, including the sprocket.

Any racket from the front has therefore nothing to do with the length of the spacer ; it might, however, have a lot to do with something about the collar in question being unable to accomodate the full depth of a key on the crank nose ......... such that the clamping from the nose bolt is not getting as far as clamping the sprocket, and so the rattle is the sprocket chattering on its keys.

Most interesting info, Andrew, about the Teflon bollocks ; if watching the Dark Waters film

https://slate.com/culture/2019/11/dark- ... upont.html

hadn't put you off the stuff already, that tech sheet would certainly make you reach for the Nitrile !

Just off to fry some bacon.

[tim wood]

The sequel ;

Having once again removed the sump. I then carefully checked the oil slinger and straightened where it looked a bit deformed. New gasket fitted and back together.
Refilled with oil and started up.
No doubt about it a slight scraping noise still present. Gets much worse after a few minutes running.
Total dismay, resigned to taking the sump off again, thinking about removing the oil slinger completely.

Lunchtime and a good think, is the sound definitely coming from the timing chain end? So crawled under the car with the engine running, could it be from the gearbox/ flywheel cover plate?
Remove the 3 bolts holding it on (should be 4) and very clear witness marks present. Run the engine again with this still off and back to the usual quiet running........ yippee.
Will refix the plate after tea break.

So was it the oil slinger first time round, I’ll never know. But I have a new seal in place, a nice clean sump.
And a lesson learnt not to jump to conclusions.

Keep safe all.

Tim

[mgcjag]

Nice one Tim....you need a nice hoist of some sort...so you dont have to be crawling under the car.....Steve

[tim wood]

You’re right Steve. I’m too old to be crawling around on my back!
Plus of course I’m always aware of all that weight just over my head, worries me sometimes.
I always keep it well chocked on some firm axle stands but ......

Must say I’m still walking around with a smug and satisfied grin at the moment!

Next job is tappet hold down kit. If I can’t drive it then I’ll get around to all these annoying little jobs.

Best wishes

Tim

[mgcjag]

Hi All...Andrew posted on the previous page about the need for absolute cleanliness when installing a teflon seal.....this video gives more detail.......was just posted on JagLovers....Note the detail to turn crank twice after install and to leave for 4 hours befor use for a layer of teflon to build up on the shaft.......Steve

[rfs1957]

Thanks for posting that Payen video Steve, fascinating.

It does beg the question whether our 60-year-old engines need this kind of technology.

The saddest part of the video is the concluding observation, the idea that seals will be increasingly supplied already integrated into their housings, and that the latter will also include also the sensors associated with them.

So oil leak equals complete housing and electronics, whether you needed them or not.

Progress ?