Anyone for Stainless Dome nuts...

ChrisC · Post by **ChrisC** » Fri Jan 14, 2011 3:45 pm

I came across this today whist looking for brake pipes...

Stainless Steel Dome head nuts specific for Jaguars.

I havnt seen them in the flesh so I cant say whether they are any good but I have ordered a sample and will report back.

http://www.stainlessparts.co.uk/product ... oductId/29

daverawle · Post by **daverawle** » Fri Jan 14, 2011 7:05 pm

Anyone for Stainless Dome nuts...

Yes! Please report back on them

Dave

Dave K · Post by **Dave K** » Fri Jan 14, 2011 7:58 pm

daverawle wrote:Anyone for Stainless Dome nuts...

Yes! Please report back on them

Dave

And me!

Dave

Dave I have just fitted your rev counter upgrade after two years, fitted like a glove after I got the angle grinder to work :D

vipergts · Post by **vipergts** » Fri Jan 14, 2011 8:03 pm

And me......Let me know how you get on with the brake pipes.

Would really fancy quality ones

ChrisC · Post by **ChrisC** » Fri Jan 14, 2011 10:15 pm

I have gone through loads of the chrome dome nuts - they always rust. So I am quite hopeful about these but I will take a few photos when they arrive. I havn't found anyone else (yet) that makes them but I know there are people considering it.

Dave K - I owe you a favour, I will post you the samples I receive. Maybe you can setup shop on these too :o)

Viper: Whats your problem with the brake pipes? They are all fairly easy to bend to shape - its quite therapeutic actually... happy to share my experiences making them so far if you have questions.

kingzetts · Post by **kingzetts** » Fri Jan 14, 2011 10:19 pm

My metallurgy is rather rusty, but I'd be a bit nervous using stainless nuts for the head studs. IIRC stainless has different yield behaviour to mild steel and for critical load-bearing applications one needs to be careful about replacing mild with stainless. Personally I'll stick with the factory spec chromed nuts.

Happy to defer to others with beeter knowledge...

vipergts · Post by **vipergts** » Fri Jan 14, 2011 10:40 pm

Chris....would just love to get stainless pipes 8)

I bought 3 grands worth of stainless nuts bolts washers screw etc (yes 3 grand) though I might have over egged it. I'm not about to use them on suspension mountings but the guy I bought them from has been doing them for 40 years and he has yet to see a problem especially when you are not relying on one bolt as most things are multi bolt mounted.

I cant imagine head bolts are ever going to go anywhere.

daverawle · Post by **daverawle** » Fri Jan 14, 2011 11:33 pm

kingzetts wrote:My metallurgy is rather rusty, but I'd be a bit nervous using stainless nuts for the head studs. IIRC stainless has different yield behaviour to mild steel and for critical load-bearing applications one needs to be careful about replacing mild with stainless. Personally I'll stick with the factory spec chromed nuts.

Happy to defer to others with beeter knowledge...

I think we need to do some destructive testing - torque some up to 80 lbs or so.

Dave

christopher storey · Post by **christopher storey** » Fri Jan 14, 2011 11:39 pm

The problem with SS fastenings in high tensile situations is not really one of torque capacity per se , but that at very low temperatures SS is terribly brittle and may well let go. I would doubt ( I am not a metallurgist) that this is really a problem with head nuts, which are only subject ( by and large ) to a static load , but I would be very apprehensive about SS fastenings in low temperatures in a dynamic situation. This is why e.g. RR who are not constrained by cost , do not use them in such situations, such as suspension fastenings

sean · Post by **sean** » Sat Jan 15, 2011 11:51 am

Not sure I would convert. Recently had to remove a stainless steel bottle screw (boat) . It had welded its self together, could not be undone without damage to threads etc.Its called Galling.
Also I think S/S need O2 so assembly with copperslip etc could actaully start to make it rust.
Not an expert though!

daverawle · Post by **daverawle** » Sat Jan 15, 2011 2:13 pm

Dave K wrote:
And me!

Dave

Dave I have just fitted your rev counter upgrade after two years, fitted like a glove after I got the angle grinder to work :D

You don't need to calibrate it to your angle grinder Dave - there's a mp3 file on the website

ChrisC · Post by **ChrisC** » Thu Jan 20, 2011 1:46 pm

Well here you go. 1 Stainless head nut and 1 stainless cam cover nut...

I will describe what I can see but I stress it is only a personal opinion based on the sample i received...

1. The finish is not bad, not as shiny as chrome because chrome is more highly polished but its pretty good
2. I can see some machining marks on the flats and on the dome itself which is a little dissapointing
3. they do fit (fairly important)
4. the cam nut really needs to have the dome machined down a fraction more as the flats continue into the dome for about 2mm. there is also a slight flat on the top of the dome

The costs are not unreasonable and are on their website

Will I be buying a set? Personally......No.

Not because the finish is bad or the cost is high but primarily because of recent discussions I have had with some people in the car manufacturing business. Essentially I was advised that Stainless Steel has about half the yield strength of hardened steel when used in high load conditions and it was recommended that I didnt use them on a cylinder head.

As someone else mentioned SS can also gall (cold weld itself) onto steel threads. There is also a question of the higher friction in the threads throwing out the torque settings. So this puts me off using them on the cylinder head.

I feel obliged to say that other peoples opinion may be very different. I am no expert I merely talked to a few people in the engineering trade and then did a fair amount of internet research which appeared to support their view...

Up to you guys... the SS dome nuts exist but I have now decided that I wont be using SS on the suspension or engine

Dave K · Post by **Dave K** » Thu Jan 20, 2011 4:29 pm

sean wrote:Not sure I would convert. Recently had to remove a stainless steel bottle screw (boat) . It had welded its self together, could not be undone without damage to threads etc.Its called Galling.
Also I think S/S need O2 so assembly with copperslip etc could actaully start to make it rust.
Not an expert though!

The same people who make Coppaslip also make anti seize for st. st. if I remember tonight I will have a look and see what its called.
Stainless comes in so many grades that you really need to understand which one is required for what job.

Dave

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Anyone for Stainless Dome nuts...

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