Clutch fork position
#1 Clutch fork position
Hi
I am concerned about the position of the fork as it exits the bellhousing.
There seems to be little travel distance and is it enough to depress the cover diaphragm?
This is a full new clutch. I contacted the company who said it was for the 4.2 Etype (jan67)
What worries me is the one removed was the thicker cover. The bell housing is the correct 4.2.
Anyone had the same issue, or will it depresss the splines enough?
Thanks in anticipation
Paul
I am concerned about the position of the fork as it exits the bellhousing.
There seems to be little travel distance and is it enough to depress the cover diaphragm?
This is a full new clutch. I contacted the company who said it was for the 4.2 Etype (jan67)
What worries me is the one removed was the thicker cover. The bell housing is the correct 4.2.
Anyone had the same issue, or will it depresss the splines enough?
Thanks in anticipation
Paul
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#2 Re: Clutch fork position
Hi..Paul.....what about the release bearing......what one have you used. ...did you buy a clutch kit complete...usually you what the fork roughly in the center.....if you havent installed yet then worth removeing gearbox and checking on the parts youve used....also what flywheel.....original or a skimed one.....Steve
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (just sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
69 S2 2+2 (just sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
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#3 Re: Clutch fork position
Thanks for your reply.
The flywheel was original but lightly skimmed by engine rebuilder who didn’t comment about its ‘thickness’
As I said I was concerned at the difference in thickness with the cover I took off
Yes full clutch kit
Would it be enough do you think?
Thanks again
Paul
Here is a photo of both covers
The flywheel was original but lightly skimmed by engine rebuilder who didn’t comment about its ‘thickness’
As I said I was concerned at the difference in thickness with the cover I took off
Yes full clutch kit
Would it be enough do you think?
Thanks again
Paul
Here is a photo of both covers
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#4 Re: Clutch fork position
I think your problem is more likely to be the thrust bearing.....the fork dosnt need to move much but i would like to see it more in the center of the opening.....thats why i sugested opening it up and and looking at the release bearing....Steve
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (just sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
69 S2 2+2 (just sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
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#5 Re: Clutch fork position
Steve,
I have seen this on 2 E types now with new 3 piece clutch kits.
When fitted, the arm is too close to the end of the bell housing slot.
Didn't you think there were two different bearing heights ie from the pivot point to the thrust face?
I could see that if the wrong one was fitted that would cause this issue.
I did question SNG the other day and they couldn't find any alternatives in terms of different part numbers.
Its a bit worrying.
I have one car in the garage at the moment with a new clutch and an original thickness flywheel. When you push the clutch hard the clutch arm smacks the body of the car because it is so far back.
Definitely worth investigating.
I have seen this on 2 E types now with new 3 piece clutch kits.
When fitted, the arm is too close to the end of the bell housing slot.
Didn't you think there were two different bearing heights ie from the pivot point to the thrust face?
I could see that if the wrong one was fitted that would cause this issue.
I did question SNG the other day and they couldn't find any alternatives in terms of different part numbers.
Its a bit worrying.
I have one car in the garage at the moment with a new clutch and an original thickness flywheel. When you push the clutch hard the clutch arm smacks the body of the car because it is so far back.
Definitely worth investigating.
Its true, but Enzo never said it
Too many E types
XK120 SUs
Too many E types
XK120 SUs
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#6 Re: Clutch fork position
There are a few different height release bearings...all look very similar untill you put them side by side...this photo shows just two....worn out carbon on one but what were looking for is difference from the pivot point
And someone elses photo
And someone elses photo
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (just sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
69 S2 2+2 (just sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
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#7 Re: Clutch fork position
hi
I think I will have to split it again. I bought the clutch set from SNG and was assured by them and manufacturers direct it was the correct set.
I did ask onJag loverssite and kindly had this interesting response
inlinesix inlinesix Terry Sturgeon
April 15
Typically on clutches this size the release bearing needs to move .375" in, once contact with the center of the diaphragm occurs, to release the disc. Given the mechanical advantage of the lever based upon it’s lengths each side of the pivot (1.6 to 1) the outer end of the arm needs to move .600 inches more or less to release the disc.
it will just about clear the 1/2 inch but as the thrust bearing wears it will not give much adjusting
I am really not sure how to progress even if the thrust bearing is a different size! the suppliers seem unaware of this problem!
I think I will have to split it again. I bought the clutch set from SNG and was assured by them and manufacturers direct it was the correct set.
I did ask onJag loverssite and kindly had this interesting response
inlinesix inlinesix Terry Sturgeon
April 15
Typically on clutches this size the release bearing needs to move .375" in, once contact with the center of the diaphragm occurs, to release the disc. Given the mechanical advantage of the lever based upon it’s lengths each side of the pivot (1.6 to 1) the outer end of the arm needs to move .600 inches more or less to release the disc.
it will just about clear the 1/2 inch but as the thrust bearing wears it will not give much adjusting
I am really not sure how to progress even if the thrust bearing is a different size! the suppliers seem unaware of this problem!
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#8 Re: Clutch fork position
The clutch pad heights could be the same when bolted down? , your old cover looks like an original Laycock item . The latest Borg + Beck kits now have a similar look to the Laycock.
With the amount of work involved it's good practice to prove the clutch operation before you refit the engine into the car .
it was hastily/ roughly engineered but i made a remote test master cylinder about 20 years ago -- just a cheap cylinder with a screw in reservoir-- also useful for caliper piston removal.
Connect it up to the slave cylinder- with a gear selected you will be able feel the biting point when turning the propshaft flange by hand.
The clutch arm position is to the left on mine with the new clutch just fitted--it operates ok'
Cheers
Steve
With the amount of work involved it's good practice to prove the clutch operation before you refit the engine into the car .
it was hastily/ roughly engineered but i made a remote test master cylinder about 20 years ago -- just a cheap cylinder with a screw in reservoir-- also useful for caliper piston removal.
Connect it up to the slave cylinder- with a gear selected you will be able feel the biting point when turning the propshaft flange by hand.
The clutch arm position is to the left on mine with the new clutch just fitted--it operates ok'
Cheers
Steve
Steve3.8
64 3.8 fhc, 67 4.2 fhc
64 3.8 fhc, 67 4.2 fhc
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#9 Re: Clutch fork position
thanks Steve. maybe I will try a mock up before I split it but Im nit hopeful
you are correct the PP I took out was a Laycock alas now long gone!
you are correct the PP I took out was a Laycock alas now long gone!
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#10 Re: Clutch fork position
Did you not try my suggestion on Jag-lovers?
1E75339 UberLynx D-Type; 1R27190 70 FHC; 1E78478; 2001 Vanden Plas
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#11 Re: Clutch fork position
Dear Paul,
if you look at the clutch fork, for a 6 cylinder car, you'll note that the pivot point on the bellhousing is nowhere near the centre of the fork, so the amount of horizontal movement at the slave cylinder pushrod end is multiplied up by this ratio when moving the thrust bearing off of the pressure plate.
kind regards
Marek
if you look at the clutch fork, for a 6 cylinder car, you'll note that the pivot point on the bellhousing is nowhere near the centre of the fork, so the amount of horizontal movement at the slave cylinder pushrod end is multiplied up by this ratio when moving the thrust bearing off of the pressure plate.
kind regards
Marek
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#12 Re: Clutch fork position
Lots of useful information already on the forum here http://forum.etypeuk.com/viewtopic.php?t=16018
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (just sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
69 S2 2+2 (just sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
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#13 Re: Clutch fork position
Said the actress to the bishop...
Andrew.
881824, 1E21538. 889457. 1961 4.3l Mk2. 1975 XJS. 1962 MGB
http://www.projectetype.com/index.php/the-blog.html
Adelaide, Australia
881824, 1E21538. 889457. 1961 4.3l Mk2. 1975 XJS. 1962 MGB
http://www.projectetype.com/index.php/the-blog.html
Adelaide, Australia
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