How to use a crank seal sizing tool?

[lowact]

For S3 there is the tool JD17B and the adapter JD17B-1 to accommodate the larger bearings, i.e.


If you try intuitively, the larger setting diameter of the tool is stopped short of the seal groove by the adapter.
The only other way would allow the tool to set the seal except the adapter is not restrained, what am I missing?

https://youtube.com/shorts/YAqKM7sMQPg

[mgcjag]

Hi Colin......never done a V12....so i can't help. ..but i have tried to search...but cant find anything to help...but im intrigued now.........Steve

[angelw]

Colin Wrote:

If you try intuitively, the larger setting diameter of the tool is stopped short of the seal groove by the adapter.
The only other way would allow the tool to set the seal except the adapter is not restrained, what am I missing?

Hello Colin,
I made my own where the end of the sizing tool locates in the next Main Bearing Housing along. Doesn't the adapter of your unit, assuming its the same spec as the factory device, do the same?

Regards,

Bill

[angelw]

Hello Colin,
Having watched your video again, having the flange of the adapter to left, just about has the sizing tool move towards the left far enough to size the seal. With the bearing cap in place, the flange doesn't have to be hard up against the face of the bearing housing. The guidance of the sizing tool wouldn't be degraded by there being a gap between the face of the flange and the left face of the bearing housing.

Regards,

Bill

[abowie]

having the flange of the adapter to left.

Watching the video this is the only way that sizing tool can work.

Ours doesn't have the adapter tube, just two different radii for 6 and 12 cylinder engines.

Chris taught me to put the seal into the groove and then use a round steel bar to soften up the seal face before inserting the tool.

He uses jointing paste between the back of the seal and the grooves in the seal housing, and a blob or RTV silicone on each side where the two halves of the seal meet.

He also cuts the seal to size leaving it about 1/8" proud on each side.

[lowact]

Thanks. This is how I did it, using a pair of multi-grips to restrain the adapter, to stop if from being pushed out by the tool. Hope its ok, is hard to imagine that this was the intended way to apply this tool.
Andrew, Bill, a v12 tool that doesn't have an adapter, I guess you must use it with the bearing shells installed, so that the tool's bearing journal is smaller than its seal journal?

[angelw]

Colin Wrote:

a v12 tool that doesn't have an adapter, I guess you must use it with the bearing shells installed, so that the tool's bearing journal is smaller than its seal journal?

Hello Colin,
I made my own tool with a longer snout that locates in the next Main Bearing Housing along and use the old bearing slippers being replaced.

Regards,'

'Bill

[abowie]

....and I've never used our tool on a V12 so my advice is at best suspect.

[lowact]

I made my own tool

Of course you did

Finished installing that 30 tonne CNC machine yet?

[abowie]

I made my own tool

Of course you did

Finished installing that 30 tonne CNC machine yet?

So did I.

[lowact]

Bought mine from Barratts. Why do I feel inadequate? Advantage of coming late to the party ...

[abowie]

Why do I feel inadequate? Advantage of coming late to the party ...

My lathe only weighs 950kg.

[abowie]

Iconoclast. Nearly finished it today.

[angelw]

Andrew Wrote:

He also cuts the seal to size leaving it about 1/8" proud on each side.

Hello Andrew,
Do you mean after one half of the seal has been forced into it's truncated "V" groove and sized, then the ends cut to be protruding 1/8" above the bearing housing split line?

Regards,

Bill

[abowie]

Andrew Wrote:

He also cuts the seal to size leaving it about 1/8" proud on each side.

Hello Andrew,
Do you mean after one half of the seal has been forced into it's truncated "V" groove and sized, then the ends cut to be protruding 1/8" above the bearing housing split line?

Regards,

Bill

Yes that's what he does. Seems to work. The new white seals are about 15mm too long.

[angelw]

Andrew Wrote:

Yes that's what he does. Seems to work. The new white seals are about 15mm too long.

Hello Andrew,
Its very important that there is no material caught in the split line between the two components of the main bearing and seal housing. With all due respect, I suspect that one would have a better chance of winning two lotteries in succession than being able to compress 1/8" of seal material protruding above the split line without getting any caught between the surfaces.

Its also important to not have gaps between the ends of the seal and therefore, a small amount of interference between the ends is desirable. The accepted method and the method I've refined and been using for many years, since first starting to rebuild both XK and V12 engines, is to use 0.25mm shim material with a hole cut in it that matches the profile of the seal. This device is slipped over the exposed end of the seal material and held flat against the surface of the split line, then a Stanley Knife Blade used to cut the seal flush with the top surface of the shim material.

The result is a clean cut with a uniform 0.25mm of seal material protruding above the split line to provide interference between the mating ends of the seal.

Regards,

Bill

[abowie]

Andrew Wrote:

Yes that's what he does. Seems to work. The new white seals are about 15mm too long.

The result is a clean cut with a uniform 0.25mm of seal material protruding above the split line to provide interference between the mating ends of the seal.

Regards,

Bill

That sounds like a nice way to do it. I'll do that next time.