Difficult to get into reverse

[sparky]

Hi,

My Dad has just bought a 1967 series 1 2+2, and he's finding it very difficult to get into reverse, I couldn't get it into reverse at all. Just wondering if anyone could give some advice on this?


thanks very much.

[mgcjag]

Hi .....its not uncommon........does it go into reverse when the engine is not running.........no syncro in first or reverse so engageing 2nd then into reverse makes it easier. ..but very typical of the slave cylinder pushrod needing adjusting and possibly bleeding......Steve...and look here viewtopic.php?f=5&t=12305

[sparky]

Thanks very much, will send him a link to this page

[christopher storey]

Steve : this is a 4.2, so there is synchro on all gears . If the idle speed is too high, i.e. significantly more than 700 rpm , this difficulty can arise . The original poster could try holding the lever against the "edge" of 1st or 2nd to stop the spinning and then try reverse

[mgcjag]

Hi Christopher...my typing error....just ment no syncro on reverse.....so it can help in engageing a syncro gear prior to selecting reverse.....Steve

[sparky]

Thanks for the replies, I've let him know. He needs to change the header tank as its leaking but will try out what you have suggested after that, I'll update!

[angelw]

sparky Wrote:

My Dad has just bought a 1967 series 1 2+2, and he's finding it very difficult to get into reverse, I couldn't get it into reverse at all. Just wondering if anyone could give some advice on this?

Hello sparky,
You don't say what trying to select Reverse results in. Is it a case of the gears making a gnashing noise, or, is sencond gear selected instead of reverse.

If its a case of the clutch dragging and therefore, the First Motion Shaft and Lay Cluster Gear still spinning, then Reverse and the Reverse Idler Gear will be trying to engage with the Reverse Idler Gear still spinning and the two gears will gnash. Selecting any forward gear will stop the First Motion Shaft and Lay Cluster Gear from spinning if the clutch drag is not excessive and then Reverse can be selected with the Reverse Idler not spinning.

If your issue is that when trying to engage Reverse, its hard to push the Gear Lever far enough to the left and therefore, you end up selecting second gear, then the issue is the adjustment of the spring loaded ball bearing that helps prevent inadvertently selecting Reverse. The adjustment can be made by removing the centre console and gearbox tunnel top cover from inside the car. You will find a bolt locked in position with a lock nut, that when wound out a little, results in less resistance via the spring and will allow the Gear Lever to be pushed to the left more easily. You will find the adjustment procedure in a workshop manual for the car and if you don't have one, your father now being an E Type owner, should buy one. However, I've always found that the described method in the manual results in too much effort is required to bump the gear lever to the left to select reverse and I back it off a little.

If the issue is that you are getting the knob of the Gear Lever to the left enough to select Reverse, there is no gnashing of gears when trying to select Reverse, but it just won't go into gear, then its the common problem of the teeth of the Reverse Idler Gear and the Reverse Gear not being aligned closely enough (male gear tooth form of one with female form of the other) for the two gears to engage. The resolve to this is to engage the clutch (foot pressure off clutch pedal) for a moment, thus allowing the First Motion shaft and all gears through to but not including Reverse Gear to spin a little before trying to select Reverse again. If this is the case, you need to hesitate for a moment after the clutch pedal is pressed again, so as to allow the First Motion Shaft to stop spinning before attempting to select Reverse Gear again.

Regards,

Bill

[rayloud@outlook.com]

Hi Bill
Read your post with interest - thanks. I have a 1966 S1 OTS and I'm getting the crunch of teeth when putting it in reverse. Sometimes when I wait a few seconds it goes in but it seems to be getting worse. Engaging the clutch before trying doesn't seem to help much. I'm worried - doe sit mean a gearbox removal to fix?
Regards
Ray Loud

[angelw]

Hello Ray,
If the gears are crunching when attempting to engage Reverse, it means that the First Motion Shaft and therefore, the Lay Cluster gear are rotating. This is due to the clutch dragging and may be cured by simply adjusting the Clutch Slave Cylinder stroke; there is much information on this Forum about this without rehashing it here.

You will be able to view the Clutch Throw-out bearing via the hole in the Bell Housing used to remove and replace the Clutch Throw-out bearing yoke, pivot pin. If the Throw-out Bearing is reasonably worn, the engine and gearbox will have to be removed to rectify.

To help in selecting Reverse without crunching, first select First Gear with the Clutch disengaged (clutch pedal depressed), then with the clutch still disengaged, move the gear lever to select Reverse. Selecting a Forward gear first, has the affect of stopping the First Motion Shaft and Lay Cluster from rotating; however this will only work if the drag of the clutch is not too bad.

Regards,

Bill

[Phil Remig]

Bill and anyone else..

What if you can't get into 1st gear either? I have a 67 OTS that has suddenly become difficult to shift while the engine is running. I can get into 2nd, 3rd and 4th but the shifting is clunky, no first or reverse. I can move through all gears if the engine is Not running. Fluid levels are fine, I changed fluid in gearbox yesterday and nothing changed. I did replace all carpeting and thus was fiddling with the console and shifter, could I have damaged linkage at shifter ?

Thanks

[mgcjag]

Clutch slave cylinder pushrod adjustment as per the service manual and also possibly air in the clutch fluid.. are the typical problems...1st and reverse don't have syncro....you could try engage 2nd gear then with foot on clutch move from 2nd to 1st or rev....still comes back though to adjustment and trapped air...Steve..ps is the problem since you moved the console....if so the gear lever rubber gaiter could be obstructing selecting gear

[Phil Remig]

Thanks Steve,

I have tried all methods of getting into 1st, including running thru 2nd prior. The shifting is ok in all gears with engine off. there was a bit of black rubber that came off the gaiter during the carpet install but I thought it was clear, so probably easiest to check that 1st.

Thanks

[Phil Remig]

Well...I have removed the console and the gaiter. There is nothing that I can see restricting movement at the shifter connection. So, I put the car up and inspected the slave cylinder and push rod functionality. there is about 1 1-1/4 inch of movement in the clutch operating push rod when the clutch pedal is pushed to the floor.

Seems OK to me...Is that enough movement?

[mtnjag]

Sparky-Is the issue resolved?