In all today I did about 15 miles in it, mainly A-roads, and including some hard braking and acceleration. Here's what I noted:
Brakes:
When refurbishing the rear axle and brakes, I took the opportunity to put thermal tell-tale strips on the pots (and on the fronts). I based the teperature range of the strips on my daily driver - BMW 330i. Front brakes (upgraded to Girling calipers) read about 40 Deg.C, and the rears about 60 Deg.C Some of the rear pots went off the scale, so I'll have to fit the next strip range and re-evaluate. Not too concerned about the higher rear temperatures since they're a different design to the fronts, and aren't very well ventilated. Worth keeping an eye on though:
Engine:
I've been messing about with the carbs and mixture of the past days (as per another thread). I got the CO to read 5.0 on the Gastester yesterday evening, and did a cursory check with a colourtune. All looked OK. It ran fine for the most part, but after a long downhill, followed by a pause at traffic lights, I got a temporary bad misfire, which eventually cleared under acceleration. It was a bit scary though. I got the impression it was plug related, but don't know. There is some popping on over-run, but I did notice condensate dripping from the exhaust joints, so they might need sealing. On returing home, I checked the CO again, and it was reading 8 on both exhausts. I don't put much faith in the readings since I see the Gunson's Gastester of a bit of a toy.
Anyway, I also checked the jet-bridge depths, and plug colours:
Driving:
There are some distant muffled bumps and clunks. Could be a loose boot board or something, could be the exhaust bumping on something, but not sure about it. It seems more mechanical, yet there was nothing obvious found during the MOT, (it was put on a hydraulic shaker table as well as the manual checks for the suspension).
The seats are too high, despite having their rail spacers removed. They are also too upright. I'm planning on fitting spacers under the front mushrooms, and somehow reducing the foam thickness. When I rebuilt the seats 20 years ago they had new foams and diaphragms. I estimate I can get about 2" more headroom with these modifications, although I'm not looking forward to un-stapling the squab covers...
There's a momentary delay when releasing pedal pressure before the brakes fully release. This doesn't appear to be a new phenomenon with remote servo E-Types. I remember it doing it last time I drove it, and it's exactly the same despite having a new master cylinder and proportional valve. Same with the groaning noise from the servo when cold. Annoying, but not much to be done I guess.
The accelerator pedal weighting seems somehow mis-matched to the brakes and clutch; being far too light. The pedal travel seems too short as well. Maybe I'll look at the return spring and rod set up, although I believe it's all correct. There's backlash in the pedal too, so it might need a plate fitting in front to push it back nearer to the point it starts to operate the linkages.
The Classic Fabs long manifold system isn't too loud (at least not as bad as I remembered), nor did it scrape on any of the numerous speed bumps that have appeared in our area since last driving it. I was a bit concerned about this.
The speedo reads about 1.5 mph low, according to the bike GPS I temporarily fitted to the steering wheel. This was supposedly re-calibrated when I changed to a standard rear axle ratio. Maybe the Blockley tyres have an effect?
I'd be interested in any comments on the above in terms of how you find your car, and also the brake temperatures and any opinnions on plug colour/mixture. I know it's tricky to interprest plugs with modern fuels (in this cae Shell V-Power).
So overall a good day, but some improvements need to be made. I think the contact-point and ergonomic issues will make a big difference to how nice the car is to drive.
Thanks all.
