This topic may have been on here before but would like some clarification. I have a 2 post lift and have always used the front lower wishbone mounts and rear trailing arms to lift the car, however there is a problem with that when I need to strip the suspension units to replace worn bushes. So can someone explain the best positions for the 4 arms to fit under the body rather than the suspension, the chassis rails are not especially wide and do not come far enough forward to add stability with a heavy engine up front. Cannot remember where Winspeed positioned the lift arms when I bought the car. Look forward to hearing from someone with experience please, it makes me a bit apprehensive.
Regards
John
Chassis 20130
2 post lifting points on series 2 fhc
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#2 Re: 2 post lifting points on series 2 fhc
John, are you completely removing the IRS and front suspension? Both at the same time or separately?
If you, say, leave the IRS and rear wheels on can you comfortably lift just the front of the car? Do the work to the front suspension, then put that fully back on and then only lift the rear to remove the IRS.
Lifting at the rear at the strengthening sections that run fore-aft should give you good support, especially just in front of the rear bulkhead. At the front there is the picture frame that you put a piece of wood into for lifting. The manual shows you that detail.
That’s how I would suggest as it’s not too much different from using a trolley jack and axle stands.
Others who have a two post can give you their suggestions.
Geoff
If you, say, leave the IRS and rear wheels on can you comfortably lift just the front of the car? Do the work to the front suspension, then put that fully back on and then only lift the rear to remove the IRS.
Lifting at the rear at the strengthening sections that run fore-aft should give you good support, especially just in front of the rear bulkhead. At the front there is the picture frame that you put a piece of wood into for lifting. The manual shows you that detail.
That’s how I would suggest as it’s not too much different from using a trolley jack and axle stands.
Others who have a two post can give you their suggestions.
Geoff
S2 FHC Light Blue
S2 OTS LHD - RHD full restoration
S2 OTS LHD - RHD full restoration
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#3 Re: 2 post lifting points on series 2 fhc
Thanks for that Geoff. The 2 post lift instructions do not allow independent lifting of the rear or front of the car at any time, so I am afraid it is a non starter. I am planning on doing the front first followed by the rear so I could just jack the front up on the picture frame. Having said that it is not at a good working height like a lift!
Cheers
John
Cheers
John
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#4 Re: 2 post lifting points on series 2 fhc
Hi John..in my opinion a 2 post is not ideal for working/removeing the front suspension....the reason being that once you have raised the car off the ground you then have your suspension on full drop and you need to jack it up to work on it...this risks unbalance the car and tipping it off the lift of your not carefull....typically the front lift points when useing a 2 post lift is under the vertical front bulkhead....if I were you I would visit your local jag garage that works on E types and look at how they jack and work useing a 2 post....Steve..ps...I would disconnect the front suspension on the ground then lift with the 2 post
Steve
69 S2 2+2 (sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
69 S2 2+2 (sold) ..Realm C type replica, 1960 xk150fhc
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#5 Re: 2 post lifting points on series 2 fhc
Thank you Steve, will take the safest route
Regards
John
Regards
John
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#6 Re: 2 post lifting points on series 2 fhc
Dear all,
Update on suspension overhaul using a 2 post lift. As previously mentioned I used the front lower wishbone mounts and the rear radius arms to lift the car securely, no problem at all. I only stripped the front suspension during the overhaul and by far the worst part of this was the removal and re-fitting of the torsion bars which are difficult to say the least. Access to the rear splined ears to access the bolts is near impossible with a 5 speed conversion and you need plenty of extension bars and universal joints on a 3/8th. socket set whilst trying to stop the top bolts rotating, On re-assembly I made a setting gauge as described in the manual to help with getting the correct ride height then re fit the splined ears into the correct position (hopefully). This may require an alignment bar to get the bolts seated correctly. This is a job I would not do without a proper lift to make life easier without lying on your back all day. I also overhauled the callipers with stainless pistons and powder coated the suspension units at the same time.
Hope this helps
John
Update on suspension overhaul using a 2 post lift. As previously mentioned I used the front lower wishbone mounts and the rear radius arms to lift the car securely, no problem at all. I only stripped the front suspension during the overhaul and by far the worst part of this was the removal and re-fitting of the torsion bars which are difficult to say the least. Access to the rear splined ears to access the bolts is near impossible with a 5 speed conversion and you need plenty of extension bars and universal joints on a 3/8th. socket set whilst trying to stop the top bolts rotating, On re-assembly I made a setting gauge as described in the manual to help with getting the correct ride height then re fit the splined ears into the correct position (hopefully). This may require an alignment bar to get the bolts seated correctly. This is a job I would not do without a proper lift to make life easier without lying on your back all day. I also overhauled the callipers with stainless pistons and powder coated the suspension units at the same time.
Hope this helps
John
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